Worn by James Bond in two of his films, the Alex is a versatile pair that can be used for everything from dress to casual wear. In this issue, we focus on the Crockett & Jones classic hole-cut “Alex” and introduce its charms!
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Crockett & Jones, a British royal warrant brand with the highest level of technology.
Crockett & Jones is a long-established British leather shoe brand, founded in 1879 in Northampton, England, a famous mecca for shoes. The company was founded by Charles Jones and his brother-in-law James Crockett, and the brand name is derived from their names. Since its establishment, the company has been known for its high technical skills, and during World War II, it manufactured over 10,000 pairs of military shoes. After the war, the company became an OEM manufacturer that was contracted to produce dress shoes for George Cleverly, John Robb Paris, and others, and was recognized by experts in the industry. From the latter half of the 1990s, the company began to produce its own original products, and produced a number of masterpieces.
It takes Crockett & Jones approximately eight weeks to complete a pair of shoes. The traditional Goodyear welt method and more than 200 other processes are used to make each pair of shoes. Although machines are used in the manufacturing process, the brand is unique in that manual labor is added at many stages. Many traditional manual processes that only skilled craftsmen can accomplish have been handed down to the next generation. The number of lasts held by the brand is the largest in the world, as it has been engaged in OEM production for other companies for many years. In 2017, the brand received a Royal Warrant from Prince Charles. After 139 years in business, Crockett & Jones had surprisingly not earned a royal warrant, but finally became one of the few British shoemakers to receive the royal seal of approval.
Crockett & Jones’ signature hole-cut “Alex” is a pair that creates a stoic and elegant mood
Alex is a hall-cut dress shoe by Crockett & Jones. The hall cut, also known as a one-piece plank toe, is a leather shoe characterized by being molded from a single piece of leather. Originally, the less ornate a leather shoe is, the more formal it is considered to be, but the positioning of the hall cut is difficult to determine. Although they give a less casual impression than wingtips, they are considered less formal than straight tips with inner wings. However, thanks to its minimalist design, it can be worn in a very wide range of situations. While the black inner-feet straight tip is limited to weddings, funerals, and business occasions, the hall cut is perfect for parties and business occasions where there is no high dress code, as well as for wearing with a jacket on a day off. The hall cut is a perfect match for off-duty jackets and other styles.
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While some hall cuts are decorated with medallions and perforations, Alex pursues ultimate simplicity by omitting all decorations. The difference between Alex and other hole-cut shoes is that the quality of the materials and tailoring stands out. By adopting the famous “348” last from Paris, a stylish chisel-toe silhouette is achieved. It is elegant while being solid and sturdy, and creates a fearless and stoic atmosphere.
Next, we will introduce five charms that Crockett & Jones’ ” ALEX ” has to offer!
The charm of Crockett & Jones’ “ALEX” (1) “James Bond’s favorite for two films
Crockett & Jones is famous as the leather shoe brand favored by James Bond in the movie ” 007. When it comes to Bond, all of the items he uses are noteworthy, from his suits, leather shoes, and watches to his brand of alcohol. In terms of leather shoes, James Bond has worn John Robb and Church, but Crockett & Jones was worn in the 23rd and 24th films of the series, “Skyfall” and “Spectre,” respectively. In other words, it is the favorite brand of the current Bond. Alex graced the feet of James Bond, played by Daniel Craig, in both of these films.
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Alex was worn in the casino scene in Macau in Skyfall and in the train ride scene in Morocco in Spectre. The two scenes have in common that James Bond wears a tuxedo in both of them. A tuxedo, the formal evening attire, is considered formal attire to be worn with shiny opera pumps, straight-tip shoes with an inside sole, or plain-toe shoes with an inside sole. Bond’s particularity can be seen in the fact that he wears hall-cut tuxedos, which are positioned as an outlier as formal shoes. James Bond has always been particular about his own style, such as wearing a diver’s watch with his suit, in what appears to be an orthodox English gentleman’s style. The tuxedo and Alex are also consistent with Bond’s style.
[ Related article ] Dissecting the charm of Daniel Craig’s suit style!
The charm of Crockett & Jones “Alex (ALEX)” (2) “Sophisticated design with luxurious use of fine leather
The Alex is made of a single piece of fine calf leather. The five-eyelet shoe lace holes are also carefully crafted, showing the high level of leather cutting and sewing technology. Another feature of hall-cut shoes is that not only the technical skill but also the quality of the leather can be recognized at a glance, as they are not made by combining individual parts as in straight-tip or derby shoes. The leather quality of the calf leather used by Crockett & Jones is of sufficient quality to bring out the appeal of the hallmark of the hallmark.
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Crockett & Jones “ALEX” is the main collection
Incidentally, Crockett & Jones has two collections: the “Main Collection,” which includes standard models, and the “Handgraded Collection,” which is a top-of-the-line line. The Alex is a product of the Main Collection, and although the materials used in the Hand Grade Collection are more luxurious, the luster and fineness of the upper calf of the Alex are of impeccable quality for a high-end shoe. The hole cut is a leather shoe that cannot be hung in a wooden form or wrinkles unnaturally when worn, unless the leather is of good quality and supple.
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Other differences between the main and hand-graded collections are mainly the outsoles and insoles. In the HandGrade collection, the outsole is finished with Hidden Channel (face down stitching), and is also tailored with a half callus finish. For the insoles, the main collection has half-socked insoles with the Crockett & Jones gold logo printed on them. The hand grade has a full sock insole with the brand logo stamped on it. The gold stamped insoles in the Main Collection may be seen by many people in select stores.
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Note the heel cup, which shows the craftsmanship that does not compromise the minimal upper form of the ALEX.
The heel is the only joint in the upper. The heel, the only joint in the upper, is sewn with great care, and the skill with which it is sewn does not detract from the minimalist upper of the Alex. The small heel cup holds the heel well, and the look and feel of the heel is comfortable at the same time.
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The charm of Crockett & Jones “ALEX” (3) “Sophisticated silhouette by last 348
Crockett & Jones has a variety of lasts, but Alex uses the ” 348 ” last. Crockett & Jones is famous for the “337,” also known as the Paris last, which was developed in 2002 based on the idea of a bespoke craftsman at the Paris store. Compared to the standard 337 and 367 lasts in the Hand Grade Collection, the 348 is characterized by a more elongated tip and side edges. The long-nose silhouette is more similar to Italian shoes.
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The chisel toe makes a simple hole cut shoe more expressive.
The chisel toe is also a feature of the Alex. The chisel toe, a type of square toe, is a design with the toe cut at an acute angle, and is said to have been popularized by George Cleverly. The chisel is the ” chisel ” of a tool, so named because it looks as if it has been shaved off with a chisel. The three-dimensional chisel toe is a perfect fit for the hole-cut design. Alex’s simple yet enduring appeal is largely due to the beauty of the 348 last shape.
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Crockett & Jones “ALEX” Appeal 4: “Goodyear welt process ensures maximum comfort.
The sole of the Alex is soleed using the traditional Goodyear welt method. The Goodyear welt method was originally developed from the hand-sawn welted method, a technique that enabled mass production by machine. It was developed in the United States by Charles Goodyear and developed in Northampton, England. The process involves scoop-stitching a tape called “rib” to the “upper” and “lining,” filling the midsole with “cork” or “shank” (metal core), and then sewing the “welt” and outsole. Since the sole is not sewn directly onto the welt, it is easy to replace the sole by simply unfastening the stitching on the welt. This method is indispensable for long-lasting wear of shoes, as it allows for the replacement of soles that wear out rapidly.
Another advantage of this method is that the midsole is lavishly filled with kneaded cork, which makes the shoes less fatiguing to wear. Furthermore, the insole sinks into the shape of the foot as it is worn in, gradually achieving the best fit. Because they have a moderate weight compared to Mackay and cement methods, they are ideal for walking for long periods of time, as they send the foot forward in a pendulum motion. The overhanging appearance of the kova is also characteristic, adding a moderate accent to the minimalist design of the Alex. The Goodyear welt method requires more craftsmanship than other methods. Crockett & Jones uses the finest materials and craftsmen of excellence.
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Attraction of Crockett & Jones “ALEX” (5) “Two types of outsoles that can be used in a wide range of situations.
DYNITE sole that combines smartness and functionality
If functionality is important to you, we recommend the Alex with a Dynaite sole. Developed by the British company Harboro Rubber, the Dynaite sole is the most typical rubber sole for dress shoes. The round tread pattern on the sole provides excellent grip to prevent slipping even on rainy days. There are other rubber soles that can also be used for town use, such as the Ridgway sole, but they look a little more casual than the Dynaite sole. The DYNITE sole, with its clean finish and no unevenness visible from the sides, is the perfect rubber sole for the dressy atmosphere of Alex.
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The royal road of dress shoes! The leather sole that accentuates the dignity of ALEX
If you wear Alex from casual to business, or even to a small party, the leather sole is a strong choice. The leather sole, an old standard for men’s shoes, is by far more elegant than the dynamite sole. Of course, it is significantly inferior to rubber soles in terms of grip, water resistance, and other functions, but it has many advantages such as foot comfort and breathability. Since feet do not get stuffy even after wearing them for long periods of time, they are surprisingly useful in business situations. As long as the toes are reinforced with toe steel and regular care is taken, they can be used for several years. Even if they eventually develop holes, the soles can be replaced because Alex shoes are made using the Goodyear welt method.
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