In the 140-year history of Crockett & Jones, it is no exaggeration to say that the “Audrey” is one of the most famous pairs of shoes in the company’s history. In addition to the use of carefully selected top-quality calf, hand-stitching and hand-finishing give the Audrey a presence that is different from that of other straight-tip shoes with inner wings. The timeless and elegant silhouette of the Paris last is also outstanding. In this issue, we focus on Crockett & Jones’ masterpiece, ” Audrey,” and introduce its charm!
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Crockett & Jones, the world’s most prolific British shoe brand ” Crockett & Jones
Crockett & Jones is a leading British leather shoe brand. The company was founded in 1879 by Charles Jones and his brother-in-law James Crockett in Northampton, a mecca for luxury shoes, and has long been involved in OEM production, supplying high-quality shoes to prestigious brands such as Paulsen Scone, George Cleverly, and John Robb Paris. Over the course of more than 100 years, the company has built up a solid technical capability through its track record of custom manufacturing. Since 1997, the company has been manufacturing original leather shoes as a shoe brand as well as OEM production, but it is also able to flexibly handle special order models for select stores and department stores. Another of Crockett & Jones’ strengths is its flexibility in creating special-order models for select shops and department stores.
Crockett & Jones’ shoes are also used by 007’s James Bond.
It takes about eight weeks for Crockett & Jones to make one pair of shoes. The Goodyear welt method, which involves a total of more than 200 processes, ensures that the shoes can be worn for many years to come. The brand’s signature model, the “Audrey,” is at the forefront of the lineup, and the fact that each of its models is a hit one after the other is another of the brand’s great strengths. In recent years, models such as the external straight-tip “Norwich,” the double monk strap “Canbury,” and the chukka boot “Tetbury” have become a topic of conversation as they were worn by James Bond in the movie “007.
[ Related article ] The charm of “Crockett & Jones Tetbury,” which James Bond of 007 also loves to wear ↓
The fact that not only global brands and stores but also all industries, including entertainment, recognize Crockett & Jones shoes is proof of the brand’s strength.
Audrey,” a straight-tip shoe with an inside sole, is an iconic Crockett & Jones model
The Audrey is Crockett & Jones’ internal straight-tip dress shoe, and since its introduction in 2002, it has established itself as one of the brand’s most iconic pairs. One of the reasons for its popularity is the sophisticated semi-square toe, which was developed using the 337 last, with input from the bespoke craftsmen who work in the company’s Paris workshop. It has both a sleek silhouette and an excellent fitting with a sense of hold.
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Crockett & Jones “Audrey” is a hand-graded pair
Crockett & Jones offers two lines: the ” Main Collection,” a standard line, and the ” Handgraded,” a luxury line. Audrey is a model belonging to the latter, Hand Grade. The Main Collection boasts sufficient quality, but the Hand Grade line is more luxurious, with more attention paid to every aspect of the shoe. In addition to using the highest quality leather for the upper and other materials, the outsole and insole are designed to look like bespoke shoes. Furthermore, as the word “hand grade” indicates, handcrafted finishes are applied everywhere.
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Crockett & Jones “Audrey” uppers in the finest quality cowhide leather
The first point that can be cited as Audrey’s superiority over ordinary straight-tip shoes with inside blades is “leather quality. This model in the hand-graded series uses calf leather that is almost six months younger than the leather used in the main collection, which is the regular line. Calf leather becomes harder as it ages and matures. Therefore, the younger the cow, the more valuable the leather becomes, and the softer and more comfortable it is on the foot. In addition to being a high quality material, Crockett & Jones selects only the best quality parts without flaws or bloodstains at the cutting stage. The cutting process is carried out in the factory by a window facing north, where natural light shines in, so that not even the smallest scratch on the leather is overlooked.
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Audrey’s calf leather is fine-grained, smooth, and beautiful, and you can taste its quality from the moment you put your foot through it. The high quality of the leather can be recognized when compared to other leather shoes when they are new, but the true value of the leather is demonstrated after it has been used for many years. It is the privilege of only the finest calf to be able to enjoy the way it grows more beautiful and tasteful the more it is worn.
Crockett & Jones “Audrey” is available in five different models with different lasts
Audrey is classified into five types according to the last. The royal roadmap is the first generation Audrey, which uses 337 Paris lasts. The ” Audrey 2,” which is rarely available in the Japanese market, uses a last of 350. This last is rather suitable for Westerners, and the heel cup is also set large, making it somewhat unsuitable for Japanese people. The “Audrey 3,” introduced in 2012, is the second most popular model after the first Audrey, and uses the 367 last, which was developed based on the 337’s E-whiz. The ball joint is slightly roomy while the hold is enhanced for a comfortable fit.
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The ” Audrey 4 ” with last 369 is another rare model. The 369, which is also one of the Paris lasts, is only available at Crockett & Jones’ directly managed stores in Paris. It has an edgy square toe and sharp detailing. There is also the ” Audrey 5 “, which was specially ordered by the Isetan Shinjuku MEN’S department store. With a long-nose square toe last, this is an extremely rare pair.
The sophisticated silhouette of the Crockett & Jones “Audrey 1” in the famous “Paris Last” 337
The last used for the original, first generation Audrey was ” 337. The brand boasts a history of more than 100 years, but the 337 was not born until the beginning of the 21st century. The 337 was developed by Dimitry Gomes, a master bespoke craftsman, after the opening of the Crockett & Jones Paris store in 2005. For this reason, the 337 is also known by the nickname ” Paris Last.
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The 337 is characterized by an elegant, semi-square form with a long nose. The basic shape, such as the height of the instep and the width of the shoe, has been retained, and British and French elements have been successfully fused together. It is a masterpiece silhouette that achieves an exquisite sense of balance, not too simple, yet not too aggressive as Italian mode shoes.
The manufacturing process of the Crockett & Jones “Audrey”, where hand craftsmanship can be seen everywhere
The use of handcrafting techniques by skilled artisans is also unique to hand-graded Audrey. Hand cutting and hand coloring maximize the appeal of leather. The process of applying steam to the leather to allow it to acclimate to the wooden form takes place in a dedicated steam room, a facility that is famous among leather shoe brands and exclusive to Crockett & Jones. The precise and uniform stitching, including double stitching, is also of a very high level. Even the finishing process is done by hand by craftsmen.
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The Crockett & Jones “Audrey” Goodyear welt method is characterized by a discreet cobweb
The Crockett & Jones Goodyear Welt method involves more than 200 processes. Not only can they be worn for a lifetime by replacing the soles, but they also have plenty of cork lining, so they adapt to your feet every time you wear them. The weight you feel when you walk on them, which is unique to the Goodyear welt method, is based on the “pendulum” principle. Rather than pursuing lightness without consideration, the foot naturally moves forward due to the moderate weight, allowing the wearer to walk with less fatigue.
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Audrey’s Goodyear welt method is characterized by the minimal protrusion of the heel. While many British and American Goodyear shoes have overhangs on the heel, this model has an elegant appearance by keeping the heel low. It is not an easy task to keep the koba in check, and this detail is also a result of the high-level skills of the craftsmen.
Crockett & Jones “Audrey” full-sock insole for enhanced comfort underfoot
The attention to detail in the Audrey is not limited to what is visible from the outside. The leather inside the footwear is also made of high-quality calfskin. Another major attraction is the use of full-sock insoles in the hand-graded line. Most dress shoes, especially those made with the Goodyear welt method, generally use a half sock (half insole). The Audrey, made with a full sock of a single piece of leather, is extremely soft and comfortable to slip on and off. The Crockett & Jones name is not printed but stamped on the shoe, which is unique to this grade.
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Crockett & Jones “Audrey” toe spring for a stable gait
The toe spring from the ball joint to the toe is also well designed. It is set neither too high nor too low, reducing stress on the shoe’s waist area. It enables a smooth shift of the center of gravity and enhances walking comfort.
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Crockett & Jones ” Audrey” heel cups provide excellent hold
The three-dimensional beauty of the heel cup is also noteworthy. It is small and holds the kakato firmly in place, making it an attractive shape that easily fits Japanese feet. Combined with the high quality and soft upper and insole, they provide a superb comfort that is easy on the feet. Furthermore, as the shoes are worn in and the cork sinks in, the soles return to their original shape for an improved fit. The fitting of Audrey’s heel cups is quintessential once the foot has become accustomed to them.
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Crockett & Jones Audrey oak bark sole is durable and beautiful
The soles of Audrey’s shoes are made with oak bark soles. Oak bark sole is a sole tanned using the plant oak (Oak), which is also used for whiskey barrels. This model uses oak bark soles made by J.Rendenbach, a German manufacturer that is also known as the world’s best.
J. Rendenbach, which boasts a history of more than 140 years, is a company that is as strong as Crockett & Jones and has supplied products to a number of high-end maisons. The company is also the most particular about its manufacturing process, using only natural ingredients to create its soles. The soles are tanned with the best blend of tannins extracted from natural materials such as oak, spruce, mimosa, and balonea, taking a long time. The tanning process can take up to a year. The leather is then carefully tanned and the fibers become densely packed, resulting in a strong and durable oak bark sole that is resistant to abrasion, friction, and water. Even though all soles can be repaired using the Goodyear welt method, Audrey’s soles can be used for many years without repair.
Unlike the open channel manufacturing method used in the main collection, the Hidden Channel manufacturing method, which hides the seams of the leather sole, is another of Audrey’s charms. Another feature is the use of a two-tone semi-colored finish in black and brown. The sole is beautifully finished by coloring a part of the sole black, which appeals to the ultimate attention to detail in a moment when the foot is lifted. It is a luxury design that attracts leather shoe lovers because it is an inconspicuous part.
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