Crockett & Jones” is a British leather shoe brand that has many fans in Japan. The “TETBURY” of Crockett & Jones is a classic chukka boot with a dressy design, known as James Bond’s favorite. In this issue, we focus on the Crockett & Jones “TETBURY” chukka boots and introduce their charm!
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Crockett & Jones, a leading British leather shoe brand
Crockett & Jones is a shoe manufacturer founded in 1879 in Northampton, a famous English shoe production area. It was founded by Charles Jones and his brother-in-law James Crockett. Using the traditional Goodyear welt method, the company expanded its production capacity at an astonishing speed in the early 20th century, and established an absolute position in the British shoe industry, so much so that the Duke of York (King George VI) visited the company for an inspection in 1924.
Crockett & Jones has the largest selection of lasts in the world
A single pair of Crockett & Jones shoes takes about eight weeks to complete and is manufactured through a total of more than 200 processes. The brand has the world’s largest number of lasts, which it has accumulated over its long history of shoe production, and its strength lies in its ability to accommodate all types of custom-made models. By manufacturing special-order models from stores and brands such as Beams, Brooks Brothers, and Tomorrowland, the brand is immensely popular in Japan.
What are Crockett & Jones’ representative chukka boots “Tetbury”?
The Tetbury is a chukka boot that is part of Crockett & Jones’ main collection lineup. Crockett & Jones has produced many masterpiece chukka boots in the past, but the Tetbury is the most “Crockett & Jones-like” pair among them. The Tetbury has a modern silhouette that rivals that of Italian brands by adopting a particularly slender version of one of the many wood patterns in the company’s collection. Despite the elegant form, the sturdiness of the construction boasts a level of perfection that can only be achieved by a brand that boasts one of the best traditions in the United Kingdom.
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Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” is a masterpiece that even James Bond loved!
In the movie “Skyfall” of the 007 series, these boots were used to support the feet of James Bond, played by Daniel Craig. The brand has made its presence known as the undisputed king of chukka boots. This masterpiece boot, which combines functionality and dress elements, has earned a high reputation worldwide. While many people choose the voluminous toe chukka boots made of suede material, it is the Tetbury that can give off a distinctly elegant appeal.
Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” semi-square toes build a dressy silhouette
The greatest feature of Crockett & Jones is that it has the largest variety of lasts (wood patterns) in the world. The unparalleled variety of lasts is a testament to the company’s experience in OEM production for brands such as ” John Robb Paris ” and ” George Cleverly. In the late 1990s, the Classico Italia boom brought a flood of square-toe leather shoes. In 2002, just as the boom was winding down, the “#337” was born as the antithesis of the leather shoe with an extremely square toe. The “semi-square toe,” which retains a modern feel but is less sharp, was accepted by many and became a new standard for the silhouette of leather shoes. The “#348” last was newly developed based on the “#337” and is used for the Tetbury.
Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” long nose for an elegant look
The modern and stylish form that is one of Crockett & Jones’ strong points has been sharpened in the “#337”. The tip of the “#337” is narrower than that of the “#348”, giving it an edgier silhouette. The “#337” is a solid and sturdy English shoe with the flair of an Italian shoe. The longer nose also adds a dress-like impression not found in other chukka boot models. The long nose and the finger-picked, three-dimensional form give the simple plain toe a rich expression.
▶︎Details of Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” are here.
The leather and manufacturing process that make up the Crockett & Jones “Tetbury”.
Crockett & Jones has two product lines: the “Main Collection” and the “Hand Grade Collection. The Hand Grade Collection is the higher end of the line. The Hand Grade Collection is positioned as the high-end line and pursues high quality in every detail, such as the quality of the leather used for the upper and the Hidden Channel finish on the sole. The lineup includes royal models such as straight tips and punched cap toes. The Tetbury chukka boots are part of the “Main Collection,” Crockett & Jones’ standard line. Although it is a standard line, the quality of the leather is outstanding among leather shoes in the same price range.
Delicate work that creates the beauty of Crockett & Jones “Tetbury
The reason for the beauty of Tetbury leather lies in its manufacturing process. The leather cutting process is done in a north-facing window with natural light so that even the smallest of natural scratches on the leather are not overlooked. In addition, the process of making leather shoes involves applying steam to the leather to allow it to acclimate to the wooden form, and Crockett & Jones performs this process in a dedicated steam room. Among the many leather shoe brands in existence, no other brand but Crockett & Jones pays such close attention to the handling of leather. Tetbury’s upper leathers are also treated with a unique wax finish that makes them water-repellent and stain-resistant.
The main collection is characterized by its full lining and half-sock design. The “CROCKETT&JONES” logo shines in gold leaf on the calf upper made of the same material as the upper.
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Stitching on the outer wings that accentuates the beauty of the Crockett & Jones “Tetbury
The Tetbury is a two-eyelet chukka boot with a stylish, dressy look, featuring a V-shaped spread of the outer wings. The feature of this shuttlecock is that the part facing the footwear opening is sewn with a single stitch, while the side joint is sewn with double stitches. The reinforcing stitching on the part before the switch from single to double stitching is also a design typical of a royal chukka boot. The double stitching, which runs neatly in parallel without any disorder, shows the high level of Crockett & Jones’s sewing technology.
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Crockett & Jones proud Goodyear welt method
The “Goodyear Welted Process” is based on the hand-sewn method called “Hand-Sewn Welted,” which enables mass production by machine. After the inner sole and instep leather are sewn to a thin leather called a welt, the main sole is sewn to the welt. The soles are filled with cork, which conforms to the shape of the foot as the wearer wears them. Although initially stiff, the more the shoes are worn, the more they conform to the shape of the foot, providing a comfortable fit that does not cause fatigue even after long hours of walking.
In addition, since the outsole and welt are sewn together at the sole, it is relatively easy to replace and repair the welt by undoing the stitching on the sole. Although the Goodyear welt method is mechanized, it is still a very labor-intensive process that involves a lot of time and effort on the part of the craftsman. Crockett & Jones’ Goodyear welt process is one of the most technologically advanced in the world, providing outstanding durability and comfort.
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Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” heel, reminiscent of a dress boot
Chukka boots are often designed to be chunky and charming, but the Tetbury is a chukka boot with a dressy look. The reason for this is not only the stylish long-nose semi-square toe, but also the exquisite height of the heel. The heel is almost 3.0 cm thick, which not only gives the boots a dressy appearance, but also makes the wearer’s posture and walking style look elegant.
The small heel cup of the Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” fits the Japanese anatomy.
The heel cup has a reinforcing core material set between the upper and lining. The three-dimensional, small heel circumference is also ideal for Japanese feet. The heel cup is another important detail that Crockett & Jones has perfected through years of research.
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The outsole of the Crockett & Jones “Tetbury” has an outstandingly functional Dynaite sole.
Another appeal of the Tetbury is the use of a functional dyneite sole instead of leather for the outsole. The dyneite sole has its roots in the development of the British company Harboro Rubber, and among rubber soles, it is superior in grip, water resistance, and abrasion resistance. The comfort and stability of the sole is unmatched by leather soles. To avoid spoiling the aesthetics of the dress-like Tetbury, the bumps are not visible from the sides.
The beautiful “nipped-in” waist gives the shoes a dressy look.
The waist area, which is not in contact with the ground, is moderately narrowed, creating a beautiful arch. Compared to other rubber soles such as Vibram soles, Command soles, and Ridgeway soles, this sole has a more subdued look and fits well with business styles. The cushioned sole allows even businessmen who are often on the go to spend time comfortably without hurting their feet.
The heel tip, which is prone to wear and tear, can be easily repaired.
Another feature of the Dynaite sole is that the top heel, which is the point where the most weight is applied, has uneven surfaces that provide a strong grip. Heel tips, which are prone to wear and tear because of the weight they bear, can be easily replaced at repair stores. It is a good point that they can last much longer with cost-effective maintenance.
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