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The charm of Alden’s “9901” (1) “Black cordovan with a jewel-like luster
The cordovan leather used for the upper is a symbolic feature of Alden shoes. Of course, Alden also produces calf and suede leather shoes, but when you think of Alden, shiny cordovan shoes should come to mind. Cordovan is made by carving out the rump of a farm horse. Alden sources all of its cordovan from the Horween Company. Horween is a tannery based in Chicago, Illinois, U.S.A., and is a traditional, world-class tannery with a history of over 100 years. Horween’s cordovan is vegetable tanned in the traditional way, with a natural finish that does not spoil the texture of the leather.
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The long and slow addition of oil produces a supple and tasteful texture that is both elastic and flexible. Cordovan, which contains plenty of oil, is smooth to the touch without standing up leather fibers, and the more it is used, the deeper its flavor becomes. The leather surface of farm horses, which are spanked and worked on, leaves small scratches on the surface. In addition, pores and traces of capillaries, called pinholes, will remain. The reason why cordovan shoes often come in deep, dark colors such as black and burgundy is that these scratches and pinholes are removed by dyeing. Shell cordovan is known as the “jewel of leather,” and 9901’s black cordovan has a deep black luster. The more it is used, the more it develops a unique dull luster, making it an attractive leather that is worth nurturing and enjoying as it ages.
Shell Cordovan is rare and valuable! If you miss the chance to buy it, it may be difficult to obtain.
Shell cordovan can only be obtained from European farm horses. However, since agriculture and forestry are now mechanized, farm horses themselves are extremely rare. Furthermore, the number of large horses is decreasing, making it difficult to obtain large rumps of cordovan. For this reason, the price of cordovan products has continued to rise over the past decade. It is unlikely that production will increase in the future, and it is not unusual for Alden leather shoes to become difficult to obtain, depending on the model. Whiskey-colored cordovan, which is only possible with scarless leather, is now a rare color that is said to be a mirage. It is recommended that you buy them when you feel like it, as it is extremely unlikely that the price will fall in the future, and of course, there is a possibility that you will never be able to get them again.
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Horween, Alden’s supplier, is now one of the few surviving cordovan tanneries in the world. Although Horween’s cordovan had earned a very high reputation for its quality, the company was in danger of discontinuing production in the late 1960s and early 1970s due to a decline in demand for cordovan. While many cordovan tanners went out of business, Alden bailed them out by purchasing two years’ worth of Horween cordovan. Since then, a strong relationship of trust has been established, and Alden continues to be a preferred supplier of Horween’s finest cordovan.
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While Alden’s other models are made by combining various leather parts, the 9901 plain toe is made of a single piece of rare cordovan leather. The fact that such a luxurious pair can be made is a result of the unwavering relationship between Alden and Horween.
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