Milan Men’s Fashion Week was held from January 12 to 15, 2024. The latest street snaps of the men who visited the event and reports by OTOKOMAE editorial staff at each brand’s fashion show and exhibition are now available!
24-25AW Milan Fashion WeekWhat are the trend trends of autumn/winter coordination as seen by visitors to each collection?
After the Pitti Uomo, Milan Fashion Week starts without a moment to catch our breath. In the Pitti flash report, we mentioned American casual style and orange as a candidate for the next trend color, but in Milan, we saw a lot of different styling. Here we introduce three trends we found in Milan!
Fall/Winter Trend A “Short length jackets are the hottest winter outerwear this season!
OTOKOMAE Editorial Department
At Milan Fashion Week, the OTOKOMAE editorial department focused on the design and silhouette of outerwear and pants. In terms of outerwear, one of the first items that caught OTOKOMAE’s attention was short-length jackets, which we have been paying attention to since last year. The oversized silhouettes with slightly sloped shoulders remained popular among short-length jackets, but the short length of the jackets made them look more flattering without feeling like they were being worn by clothes. In terms of items, many of the items were blousons with a narrow hem, such as MA-1s and stadium jackets.
Fall/Winter Trend Trend B: “Coats should be long, from just below the knee to just above the ankle!
Another outerwear item that caught the eye of the OTOKOMAE editorial staff was a long coat. The length of coats worn by fashionable visitors was from below the knee to above the ankle, and men wearing elegant I-line and A-line coats were in the mood for loose-fitting silhouettes. In terms of design, many of the coats seemed to have a relaxed look with a low gauze line, similar to the trend for tailored jackets and suits.
Fall/Winter Trend Trends C “Pants Trend Accelerates Popularity of Full-Length and Floor-Length Pants”
Pants are wide silhouettes, with full-length and floor-length pants gaining in popularity. They are long enough to cover the shoe openings, and some even have hems that touch the ground. Many men wore such long pants with short jackets, creating an impressive contrast in silhouette. It seems that oversized pants, not only in width but also in length, will continue to be a hot item.
Next up The following is a list of topics from the latest collections covered at Milan Fashion Week that caught the eye of the OTOKOMAE editorial staff!
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At the 24-25AW show of Zegna, the runway was set up as if surrounded by piles of cashmere that were falling from the ceiling. The runway was set up around a pile of cashmere falling from the ceiling. Following last season’s show, which featured a collection using Zegna’s original material “Oasi Linen,” this season’s show also featured a collection using Zegna’s original material “Oasi Cashmere. The Zegna show is customary to present tone-on-tone styling with items of similar colors, but this time the color tones and the presence of the items as a whole were accentuated by combining this with a layered look proposal. A wide range of accessories to complement the layered styles were also available, including long ribbed gloves, bridgeless glasses, tone-on-tone rubber sole boots, and the new “Monte” model of Zegna’s classic Triple Stitch TM sneaker.
OTOKOMAE Editorial Department
Zegna’s cashmere items were the main focus of the collection, and the entire collection was a layered outfit proposal. Various layered outfits were seen, such as knit ensembles, shirt-on-shirt, and layered outfits with a crisp look by lengthening and shortening the length of the garment and the length of the sleeves. Although the layered styles were of a high level, there were many proposals that could be called real clothes, and the total collection with a very high degree of perfection was worth a look. The OTOKOMAE editorial staff who covered the event on site paid attention to the 52nd look in the gallery, which featured a “neck layer” created with a high neck and crew neck. The layering is done in a way that the sizing of each piece is calculated so that it doesn’t look bulky. There are many other looks that could be used as a reference to update your everyday outfits, so please take a look at the collection looks in the gallery below!
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JW Anderson presented an extraordinary collection in contrast to Zegna’s real clothes. This collection was inspired by the world of Stanley Kubrick’s movie ‘ Eyes Wide Shut,’ and visual details such as paintings and interiors that appeared in the movie were incorporated into the collection. The looks are highly individualistic, with artistic elements sprinkled throughout, such as a pantyhose-only look that leaves the viewer with a question mark, and a men’s one-piece style with three different looks printed with paintings from the film. On the other hand, the collection also features “simply cool clothes” that are modern interpretations of classic garments. The Tyrocken coat with its large cape-like collar, the trench coat with its loose oversized silhouette, and the coach jacket with its ultra-big silhouette were also eye-catching and in line with the current mood of the mode.
The pantyhose style surprised me at first, but upon closer inspection, I felt that it was a way to cut down on waste and make only the main items stand out without making the rest stand out, just like the black robe (kurogo) in Kabuki. What caught my attention in JW Anderson’s collection was a wrap coat that looked like a modernized version of the Tylocken coat. Even with a simple coordinate, this coat has an atmosphere that makes you look stylish just by wearing it. In fact, in the looks shown on the runway, the only items worn besides the coat were pantyhose, socks, and shoes. Since it had an atmospheric appearance even with just this, it would not be an exaggeration to say that it is a one-hit-kill outerwear. Also, the big silhouette coach jacket is a nice touch. Since it is quite oversized, it would be quite a challenge to actually wear it, but I think it is a modern design balanced by the short length.
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Brunello Cucinelli is based on a formal style reminiscent of the sartoria of the 80’s, and is free from the rules of men’s fashion. The theme of the 2024AW collection is “A FREE SOUL CALL,” which gives a fresh impression not only in the way of dressing but also in the use of color, with a wide range of color palette. Brunello Cucinelli is symbolized by items based on elegant beige and gray, but in this collection, in addition to such base colors, accent colors were used in abundance. For example, orange, a candidate for the next trend color, which was also prominent at Pitti, was proposed as “lobster orange,” inspired by the color of lobsters. Other proposed colors include “coral red” and “iris purple,” both inspired by coral reefs, but all colors are slightly grayish, so they go well with beige and gray. The color palette is also very well calculated. The calculated color palette is also one of the best.
This collection proposed a free style of dressing that is not bound by rules, and one of the most novel styles that caught our attention was the tucking in of a knit cardigan. If you imagine just the term “tucking in a cardigan,” which is not so familiar to most people, it may seem like a very unrefined coordination, but in the hands of Brunello Cucinelli, who has built a history of men’s elegance, the result is as elegant as if a dress shirt were tucked in. Brunello Cucinelli has built a history of men’s elegance. Other style patterns are abundant, such as suit and rider’s jacket, layered shirt and turtleneck, and using leather jacket as innerwear.
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The new Woolrich collection “Woolrich Black Woolrich Black Label.” Todd Snyder, who has worked as a designer for brands such as Ralph Lauren and J. Crew in the past and established his own eponymous brand in New York in 2011, is the creative director of this remarkable label. The fall/winter 2024 collection will showcase his creations in both the main collection and the black label, including items using the well-known buffalo check pattern.
In addition to its mainstay outerwear, Woolrich is also focusing on knitwear. Currently based in Italy, Woolrich’s knitwear is said to be secretly attracting attention within the industry for its superb use of materials. In the Black Label presented this time, Mr. Todd Snyder’s sense of American classic and British tailoring has been added, and the design and fitting have been dramatically improved. While browsing the exhibition hall, I am interested in the sweaters with elbow patches, not to mention the buffalo check outerwear group. As the oldest outdoor brand in the U.S., Woolrich has been offering many items with a strong outdoor taste, but thanks to Mr. Todd Snyder’s skill, the Black Label collection has been created with a more fashionable feel. I have high expectations for the next fall/winter season, when the collection will actually go on sale!
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3 Highlights of Woolrich's "Black Label" by Todd Snyder, New York's work-in-progress
Woolrich's new collection "Woolrich Black Label" was presented on the runway at Pitti Uomo 105 on January 9, 2024, and a...
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Despite the name of the exhibition, the live presentation was held every season with models changing on the stage at regular intervals. Canali holds a live presentation every season where models stand on the stage at regular intervals. This is an established method of expression that allows the viewer to see the real texture, fitting, and drape of the garments at close range, just like at a show. This season, under the theme of ” Into Nature,” the latest collection was composed mainly of natural colors, with a base color of green, inspired by the picturesque haze of the land where Canali was born. The overall silhouette of the clothes was designed to be loose, neither too tight nor too oversized, and expressed a generous elegance. Slightly drop-shoulder outerwear, knitwear, and pants also featured relaxed silhouettes.
The checkered patterns on suits, outerwear, and stoles are also one of the highlights of the 24-25AW collection, according to the company. Tartan house checks are abundantly placed throughout the collection, and we were also interested in the development of mini bags that could be used to “add a touch” to a coordinated look. The large scarf shown in the second gallery is a large checkered design, but its coloring is suitable for any style. I heard that the number of items available in Japan is limited, but I hope that there will be a wide variety of accessories such as stoles and bags with this kind of check pattern.
