The six charms of Alden’s “9901,” the king of American shoes.

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The six charms of Alden's "9901," the king of American shoes.

Among Alden’s many masterpieces, the “9901” is a classic American shoe. The black cordovan with black luster gives off an absolute presence in any situation. In this issue, we focus on Alden’s “9901” and introduce its charm!

Alden, a long-established American shoe brand with a strong personality

Alden is a shoe brand founded in 1884 in Middleborough, Massachusetts, in the United States. In 1892, the company moved its factory to North Abington, Massachusetts to expand its production line, and in 1931, it moved to Brockton, Massachusetts. In the same year, the founder, Mr. Alden, retired and the management rights were transferred to the Tarlow family. In 1970, the company opened a new factory in Middleborough, the same location where Alden was founded, and has continued to manufacture shoes made in the U.S.A. ever since. Alden produces traditional Goodyear-welted shoes made of extremely high quality materials. Alden also pioneered the field of orthopedic shoes for medical use, which can be worn comfortably by people with foot problems, and revolutionized shoe design. This technology has been passed down to the present day, and shoes with a strong inward swinging curve and a modified last are examples of such shoes.

There are several reasons why the American brand Alden has an unrivaled presence in the high-end men’s shoe industry, which is dominated by the British, Italian, Spanish, and French brands. One of the most representative is the cordovan used in many models. By preferentially purchasing the highest quality shell cordovan produced by the Horween Company, Alden is able to achieve a quality that no other manufacturer can imitate.

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Alden also features a total of 13 types of lasts, including Japan-only lasts such as Bally lasts and modified lasts. The last is used to maximize the presence of the design and the material, depending on the model. Alden’s president himself inspects the cordovan every morning without fail, and skilled craftsmen complete each pair of shoes through about 200 work processes, including laminating, sewing, hanging on a wooden form, and finishing. Alden’s attention to detail in the materials used and the excellence of the manufacturing process are the reasons for the strong individuality of Alden shoes.

Alden’s iconic “9901” external plain toe

The 9901 is Alden’s external-blade plain-toe model, and it is a pair that symbolizes the brand. The 990 is a dark burgundy, while the 9901 is black. 9901’s upper is made of the highest quality black cordovan, and the moist luster of the cordovan becomes more beautiful with use. The Barry last is used, and the rounded silhouette is well balanced with a long nose. Although the upper is not decorative, the 360-degree Goodyear and split welt stitching around the perimeter gives the shoe a presence not found in most derby shoes.

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One of the charms of these shoes is that the cordovan ages well and is worth nurturing in terms of comfort. The midsole is generously filled with cork, so the more you wear them, the more they will adapt to your feet. Because they are basic plain-toes, they demonstrate their true value in all situations, both on and off the job. It is an excellent model that continues to be loved and used today as a high-grade formal wear in the good old U.S. of A. In the next section, we will further subdivide the charms of the Alden “9901” into six categories!

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