What is the charm of “Church’s SHANNON”, a masterpiece of plain toe leather shoes?

There are many brands of English shoes, and Church’s can be said to be one of the most popular brands in Japan. Among them, SHANNON is a masterpiece among masterpieces, and is also called “the representative of the outer-blade plain toe. This time, we focus on “Church Shannon” and introduce its charm!

Church’s,” the brand that set the standard for leather shoes

Church’s” is the brand that created the first “adaptable” shoe, a shoe with a different shape for the left and right foot, at a time when there was no distinction between shoes for the right and left foot, and only straight shoes existed. By creating various concepts that are taken for granted today, the brand won a gold medal at a shoe exhibition held in London in 1881. This was the beginning of the company’s growth as a shoe brand that became famous throughout Europe.

Church is also known as the ” father of English ready-to-wear shoes. This is because Church’s was one of the first to adopt the Goodyear welt method, which was born in the U.S. in the late 18th century, and established the image of “English ready-to-wear shoes = Goodyear welt. Church’s Goodyear welt process is so meticulous and high quality that it is highly acclaimed worldwide. 250 steps (about 8 weeks) are required to make a single pair of shoes before they are finally polished.

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Church, also known as ” Bond’s favorite leather shoes

Church is also famous as James Bond’s favorite shoe. In “Quantum of Solace,” there is a rumor that “SHANNON” might have been worn in addition to “RYDER3” chukka boots. Unfortunately, Crockett & Jones has since taken over the position, but the image of “Church as Bond’s iconic leather shoes” has not changed. In addition to the charm of the quality and solidity that Church has cultivated as a leather shoe manufacturer, the image of “Bond’s favorite leather shoes” that tickles men’s hearts above all else is one of the factors that support the appeal of Church’s shoes.

What is Church’s “Shannon,” a masterpiece of the external-blade plain-toe?

Shannon is one of Church’s representative models. The model name is derived from the name of a town in the west of Ireland. It is a leather shoe with an external plain toe and features a rounded, voluminous toe with the “#103” last. The upper is made of “Polished Binder Calf,” an original material with strong water repellency, in pursuit of durability and water resistance. As well as the presence of the upper, the double leather sole and storm welt give the foundation an excellent sense of heft. This is a masterpiece model that combines elegance and sporty elements, and can be called a hybrid of country and dress shoes.

Compared to the Church’s standard “173” last, the instep is higher and the width is slightly wider. Since there is no size change vertically, it is preferable to try on your own size before making gradual adjustments when actually purchasing. If you don’t have time to go to a store, we recommend purchasing on an e-commerce site that allows returns. The e-commerce site also offers limited time sales depending on the season, so it is worth checking if you are thinking of buying, as there is a good chance you can buy them for less than the regular price.

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The Church Shannon features a versatile and stately form.

The wood pattern used for the Shannon is the “#103” last, which is relatively new among Church’s shoes, having been developed in the 2000s. The iconic toe with its characteristic volume is a traditional English country element that can be glimpsed in dress shoes. Generally speaking, the plain toe is associated with a sharp form. The Shannon, however, has a wider foot width and a voluminous form. The nose is not only voluminous, but also has a refined atmosphere typical of English shoes by setting the nose at a moderate length.

This stately form fits exquisitely with the wide, roomy silhouette of pants that is the trend these days. The versatility to match not only suit styles but also casual styles is an appeal unique to Church’s Shannon.

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The “hand stitching” throughout the Church’s ” Shannon” enhances the character of fine leather shoes.

Church” still manufactures high-quality welted shoes in its high-quality factory in Northampton, and continues to exude the same charm as it has for more than 140 years since its establishment. The reason why the Shannon is said to be the most representative of the external plain toe among the many star-studded derby shoes is due in large part to the “hand stitching” around the wings.

Shannon’s hand-stitched design (1) “Skin Stitching on the Shoe Lace Holes

The first thing to note is the expressive skin stitching alongside the shoe lace holes. This design, which is subtle but has a strong presence, is one of the major features of Church’s technology.

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Shannon’s hand-stitched design (2) “Half-moon stitching that makes the wings of the shoe sturdily finished.

Another attractive feature is the half-moon stitch, which is sewn to reinforce the wings. Like skin stitching, this stitching is done by hand, and the tension is so strong that it bites into the leather. The neatly drawn half-moon is not only durable, but also one of Shannon’s famous icons. These high-level hand-stitching techniques give the simple design of the external plain toe an original and tasteful look.

▶︎ Click here for more details on the Church “Shannon”.

Polished binder calf,” synonymous with Church’s ” Shannon,” has a different luster and durability than glass leather.

Church’s Shannon was created based on the concept of “dress shoes that can be worn easily even in rainy London. In London, where there are many days of bad weather throughout the year, shoes to be worn on rainy days are a greater concern than in Japan. To solve this problem, Church developed its own material, book binder calf, using the finest leathers from all over the world. Now renamed ” Polished Binder Calf,” this material is water-repellent and has an elegant sheen that makes it hard to believe it is leather.

Polished binder calf is not the only type of glossy leather; a material called “glass leather,” which is used for shoes priced at 10,000 to 20,000 yen and made in Japan, also has a strong gloss. Although glass leather has something in common with polished binder calf in that it is resistant to rain and water, its disadvantage is that it is often made from raw hides with poor quality, and it looks cheap. Although it is functional, many leather shoe lovers do not like glass leather. Polished binder calf, on the other hand, is made from fine raw hides with well-defined fibers. The surface of the calf leather is treated with a special resin finish, which gives it an elegant and tasteful sheen, rather than an artificial luster. This treatment also makes it difficult for the color of the leather to fade.

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This elegant sheen has a different beauty from that of cordovan. Another major difference from cordovan is that it is scratch and stain resistant and much easier to care for. Unlike glass leather, which deteriorates with each use, the charm of polished binder calf is that it develops a heavy wrinkle that was not there when it was new, as it is used over time with care. Some consumers say that even after five years of rough use, no cracking has occurred.

Church’s “Shannon” has a different look depending on the color.

The Church “Shannon” is available in a variety of colors, including burgundy, navy, light ebony, and sandalwood, as well as the classic black. The Shannon, made of glossy polished binder calf, creates a different look depending on the color. It is a nice point to be able to choose a color to match your preferred styling, such as black for a dressy look with a suit, or brown for a casual look.

(in order: black, burgundy, navy, light ebony, sandalwood)

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The tongue of the Church “Shannon” has a soft leather transition for smooth on and off

The Shannon’s footwear has a soft-textured leather transition on the tongue. The changeover makes the tongue flexible and allows for smooth on/off. This transition is designed to be inconspicuous when the laces are tightened. This elaborate tongue design is one of the points where Church’s sincere approach to shoemaking can be felt, even in the parts that are not visible.

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3″ technology to realize the distinctive sole massiveness & high functionality of Church’s “Shannon

The sole of the Church “Shannon” is also the key to the sole’s weighty appearance. It would not be an exaggeration to say that all the details are combined to create Church’s original sense of weight.

The “all-around welt,” which adds durability and a sense of weight to the sole by sewing the sole all the way around, is a technique used on the sole of Church’s “Shannon.

The Goodyear welt method involves sewing the inner sole and instep leather to a thin leather called a welt, and then sewing the main sole to the welt. Shoes made by this method are sturdy and durable, with little deformation. The soles are filled with cork, which conforms to the shape of the foot as the wearer wears them. Although initially stiff, the more the shoes are worn, the more they conform to the foot, providing a comfortable fit that does not cause fatigue even after long hours of walking. In addition, the soles are relatively easy to remove and can be reupholstered and repaired. In terms of appearance, the welt, which frames the front part of the shoe above the toe, protrudes outward from the upper.

In recent years, some brands have reduced the amount of overhang to a minimum, but in the case of Church’s shoes, the overhang has been left intact and the emphasis has been placed on solidity. This classic detailing is synonymous with Church’s solid shoemaking, and it creates a simple yet attractive shape that is not overbearing. It is also noteworthy that the Shannon uses an “all-around welt” with outstitching all the way around, rather than the traditional front only. This manufacturing method constructs a form with an unparalleled sense of weight.

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Technology applied to the sole of Church “Shannon” (2) “”Storm welt” to prevent rain from entering and to protect the upper from damage.

In the Shannon, which is designed for active use and more resistant to wind and rain, another twist is added to the Goodyear welt method. This is the “storm welt” on the welt. The “storm welt” is a raised crest on the upper that is in contact or not with the upper, which makes the shoe more waterproof and dustproof than conventional welt. It also acts as a protective barrier, preventing the polished binder calf of the upper from being scratched. The storm welt, which means “storm” in Japanese, prevents rain and wind from entering the shoe, and is a reassuring tailoring that makes a sturdy shoe tougher to wear. It is also meant as a decorative feature to increase the volume of the shoe’s appearance, and contributes to enhancing Shannon’s sense of weight.

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The technology used in the sole of the Church “Shannon” (3) “”Double sole” to accelerate the impression of solidity and sturdiness

Shannon’s leather sole uses a “double sole. As the name suggests, a double sole is a specification in which a leather sole called a midsole is laid over the entire sole. It is characterized by an increase in thickness compared to the single sole, which is the royal roadmap for dress shoes. Of course, it is not only thicker, but also much more durable and water-resistant. The double sole was originally introduced to country shoes, which were originally designed for light walks in the fields and mountains, and it is an appropriate sole for Shannon, which pursues practicality.

One thing to note is that they feel slightly stiffer than single soles at the beginning of wear. However, once your feet are accustomed to the sole, it will return to its original shape and become easy to walk in, just like a normal Goodyear welt shoe. The toe portion of the sole is thicker, so it is recommended to reinforce the sole with a toe steel or similar material as soon as possible.

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The heel lift of the Church “Shannon” gives stability, not burden, to the foot.

Many formal dress shoes have a shapely, slender heel, but the Shannon is the exact opposite. Shannon shoes have a large, sturdy, and thick heel. It is said that leather shoes with an external shuttlecock, also known as derby shoes, originally originated from shoes used for horse riding, and their historical background suggests that stability and functionality were more important than those with an internal shuttlecock. Shannon’s massive heel lift is not only highly durable, but also provides excellent stability when walking due to its large ground contact surface. It has the advantage of distributing weight efficiently and avoiding unnecessary burden on the feet. The upper, on the other hand, is moderately shaped, creating a silhouette that is well balanced with the sole. The secret to achieving both a sense of weight and an elegant atmosphere lies in such subtle details.

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The Church “Shannon” design has a meaning all its own.

When shoes are sewn together using the Goodyear welt method, a groove is dug into the outsole, revealing the threads that were sewn into the shoe. Some brands that are particular about elegant appearance use a method called “Hidden Channel” to hide the seams, but Church uses “Open Channel” for all Goodyear shoes, not just Shannon’s. Church’s commitment is to have meaning in all designs, not to pursue decorative elements that have nothing to do with functionality. This is the reason why the shoes of this brand are said to be particularly solid and sturdy among English shoes.

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