
Coats are indispensable for business suit styles in fall and winter. However, with the recent trend toward more casual business styles, casual outerwear is also becoming popular, and the options for fall/winter business style are expanding. In this issue, we introduce coats by type from the viewpoint of “Does it go with a business suit? This time, we will introduce coats by type from the viewpoint of “Does it go with a business suit?
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Four points to consider when choosing a coat that goes with a business suit
If you want to go with a basic style, the basic colors are black, gray, navy, and camel. Plain colors are the basic design, and patterned coats with checkered patterns are a challenge. When selecting a coat to match a business suit, the following three basic points should be kept in mind.
1] [Defense] It is better to own at least one plain formal coat regardless of the type of work
2] [Defense] Even for short coats such as P coats, choose a length and sleeve length that covers the hem and sleeves of the suit jacket (*Note that this does not mean choosing an oversized coat)
3] [Offense] Depending on the type of work and TPO ③[Aggressive] Consider owning a coat with a slightly offbeat design depending on the type of work and TPO.
④[Aggressive] Match the aggressiveness of the color and pattern to the rules and TPO of the workplace.
From here, we will look at coats that go with suits in each category. First, we will introduce five business-style royal roadside coats!
Royal Coats that Go with Business Suits (1)Chesterfield Coat
The “Chesterfield coat” or “Chester coat” for short was so named because it was a favorite of the Earl of Chesterfield in the 19th century. It is attractive for its versatility in covering formal styles appropriate for weddings, funerals, and other occasions, as well as casual styles other than suits. The darker tones, such as dark navy and charcoal gray, give a more formal impression and match with all types of business suits. Going back in history, the classic Chester coat is considered to be the one with a velvet upper collar and a front button tailored with a ratio, which enhances the formal atmosphere. If you often style a suit or jacket with a coat, why not look for a Chester coat with ratio tailoring? As with jackets, the difference between single and double tailored coats can make a considerable difference in impression.
Royal Coat that goes with Business Suits (2)Stenkarrer Coat
The stenkarrer coat is a type of raincoat said to be derived from the trench coat. It is a kind of raincoat that is said to have been derived from the trench coat, and is a standard business-style coat worn by a wide range of people, from job-hunting students to successful businessmen. The name “stainless steel collar coat” is a Japanese-English word, and its official name is “Balmacaan Coat,” and it is also called “balmacaan coat” or “stand fall collar coat. It is a simple and elegant coat with a shirt-like design with a high back collar. In fall and winter, coats are mainly made of wool or cashmere for warmth, while spring coats for spring are usually lightweight and made of cotton gabardine or nylon. Also, the basic form of a classic stainless-steel collar coat is one with raglan sleeves and front buttons tailored with a wing, but recently it is not uncommon to find set-in sleeves and regular button designs that are not winged.
Royal coat that goes well with business suits (3)trench coat
Many people have the image that “trench coats are an item for cool men” because famous actors of the past, such as Humphrey Bogart and Alain Delon, wore them in their private and public lives. Many people may have an image of the trench coat as a cool man’s item. The trench coat is also a traditional outerwear item with its roots in the military coat developed for the British army during World War I. It has a history of being brushed up as a fashion item by long-established British brands such as Burberry and Aquascutum in the 1930s. Although the trench coat has a strong image of a spring coat, it can be expected to be very useful in fall and winter as well by wearing a model with a liner or an inner down coat inside. Since its roots are military, it is characterized by the fact that it still retains “military” details such as epaulettes on the shoulders, chin strap on the collar, waist belt, and waterproof gabardine material, etc. However, perhaps because it originated in the U.K., it is strangely suited to the suit style. It is a British item that fits in well with the suit style.
A royal coat that goes with business suits (4)Ulster Collar Coat
At first glance, it looks like a double-breasted Ulster Collar Coat,” which looks like a chester coat but features a steeply angled V-shaped notch. This outerwear originally has its roots in a coat made of wool from the Ulster region of Northern Ireland. Compared to the Chesterfield coat, the Ulster collar coat has a slightly sporty finish, but since it retains the dressy taste, it goes well with suits. It is sure to be useful when you want to make a difference in a subtle way.
Royal Coat that Goes with Business Suits (5)Polo Coat
19 The polo coat has its roots in the weight coats worn by polo players in England in the 19th century while waiting between games. The coat became popular among the general public in the eastern and midwestern United States, led by Ivy League students. Later, Brooks Brothers Company introduced a coat of this design under the name ” polo coat. Since then, the name has taken root and has a history of being distributed as a fashion item. At first glance, the polo coat looks similar to the Ulster collar coat, but in addition to the Ulster collar, the polo coat features a “back belt,” “patch and flap pockets,” “double-breasted 6B tailoring,” and “turn-up cuffs (folded cuffs). Like the Ulster collar coat, this outerwear is useful when you want to create a sporty impression while maintaining a dressy taste.
The difference in design between a polo coat and an Ulster coat is not clearly defined, and the names are sometimes reversed depending on the manufacturer.
Next, we introduce a casual coat that can be used as a business style accessory!
Coat that can be added to business suits (1)Wrap Coat/Belted Coat
If you want to give a “different look from others” other than Chester coats and stainless collar coats with button closures If you want to “look different” from others, we recommend an elegant wrap coat/belted coat that closes at the front with a waist belt. There are also an increasing number of coats with buttons that incorporate a belted design, and you can enjoy either design by attaching or removing the belt.
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Coats that can add a touch of hassle to your business suit (3) Duffle Coat
The duffle coat is an outerwear item that originated around 1820 as a winter coat worn by fishermen who risked their lives fishing in the raging North Sea in the winter. Later, it was adopted as a winter coat by the Royal Navy in World War II, and became a fashion item after surplus stock was disposed of after the war and became widely available on the market. The thick melton fabric specialized for protection from the cold and the toggle detail adopted to make it easy for fishermen to put on and take off even with gloves on give a soft and gentle impression, for better or worse, despite the background. As for brands, the British Grover All and Invertia duffle coats are standard.
Coats that can be added to business suits ④Down Coats
In recent years, many smart, urban models of down jackets have appeared that can be worn with suits without feeling out of place. In line with this, the style of wearing a down jacket with a business suit has gradually become more popular. The same goes for long, elegant down coats. The most important feature of this type of outerwear is that it boasts the best thermal protection among all other types of outerwear. The key to matching a down item with a suit is to choose one with a slightly longer length so that the hem of the suit jacket does not stick out. Down coats with a dressy atmosphere are available from a variety of brands, so you can also choose these as outerwear to go with your suit.
Coats that can add a touch of extra flair to your business suit (5)Quilted Coats
As the name suggests, this coat is made of quilted material, Coats made of quilted material. The famous British brands Babur and Lavenham, which are synonymous with quilted outerwear, and Mackintosh, another long-established British outerwear brand, have long been staples of this type of coat. Incidentally, the originator of the quilted jacket is said to be the British-born Husky brand, which is sometimes called the Husky jacket overseas. Since it was originally an outerwear for horseback riding, it was rarely worn with suits, but nowadays it has become a popular item to coordinate with suits, and it is not uncommon to see it at Pitti.
Coat that can be added to business suits (6)Mod Coat
Speaking of mod coats, M -51 model is the royal roadmap. This refers to the ’51 model of the U.S. military’s extreme cold-weather garment adopted in the 1950s. The official name is “PARKA SHELL M-1951,” which was specified in the MIL standard used when procuring supplies for the U.S. military, and was named after the mods (young British workers) who wore the M-51 over their slim three-piece suits in the U.K. during the 1960s. The media started calling it “mod’s coat,” which is how it got its current name. The image of the mod coat is also strong in Japan, as it was worn by Shunsaku Aoshima, played by Yuji Oda, in the movie ‘ Odoru Daisousasen (Bayside Shakedown). It is characterized by its generous width so that it can be worn over weapons and other equipment. Other features include epaulettes on the shoulders and fishtails. Since this coat can be worn in a very casual way, you will want to coordinate it in consideration of your TPO.