Double monk strap shoes are loved by many gentlemen because they can be worn from business to casual wear. It is not too much to say that all double monks started from “WILLIAM” by John Robb (JOHN LOBB), though it has established the position as one genre of dress shoes completely in recent years. This time, we focus on “WILLIAM,” which is the origin of the double monk and still boasts of the highest quality, and introduce its charm!
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“John Robb”, the world’s premier leather shoe brand, renowned as the “King of Shoes”.
John Robb is the world’s most prestigious leather shoe brand that every leather shoe lover has longed for at least once. The history of this brand began when John Robb, a shoemaker who succeeded in manufacturing boots for miners during the gold rush era, opened a workshop in London in 1866. In 1976, the Paris branch and the John Robb trademark were sold to Hermès, giving birth to John Robb Paris.
John Robb Paris has a workshop in Northampton, England, where it produces the finest ready-to-wear shoes in the spirit of its bespoke heritage. Today, the original founder of the family, John Robb, operates a boutique in London specializing in bespoke shoes. John Robb Paris offers masterpieces such as “City,” “Phillipe II,” and “William,” which are coveted by gentlemen around the world.
John Robb’s ” William ” is the origin of the double monk strap! The famous shoe loved by the Duke of Windsor.
John Robb’s William is a model that can be called a masterpiece of the double monk strap. Nowadays, the double monk strap is recognized as one of the basic designs of leather shoes along with the straight tip and wing tip, but it all started with this one pair. The first pair of double monk straps was made in 1945, when the famous fashionable Duke of Windsor (King Edward VIII of England) asked John Robb to make a pair of shoes for him.
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Different from the Single Monk! The roots of the double monk can be traced back to aviator’s shoes!
William Robb, the second John Robb director, tailored shoes for the Duke of Windsor inspired by the ” aviator boots ” worn by aviators. This was the birth of the double monk, and the “William” was later named after its creator as a ready-to-wear shoe. Incidentally, the single monk strap, which has only one strap, is said to have originated from shoes worn by monks in the Alpine region in the 15th century. The double monk strap is a completely different lineage, although it bears the same ” monk ” name.
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While the aviator boot has a strong military essence, it also has a dress element as it follows the design of the straight-tip boot. And yet, the all-around Goodyear sole and the double sole suggest that it is inspired by country shoes. The perfect balance of these elements is the reason why William is loved as a pair of shoes for all occasions.
The difference between John Robb’s ” William ” and ” William 2 ” is the double stitching on the toe
The William was first sold as a ready-to-wear shoe in 1982, and 25 years later, in 2007, the ” William 2 ” was released. Although the materials, last, and design used are almost the same, there is a difference in the double stitching on the toe. The first William used machine stitching, while the William 2 features hand-stitched double stitching. Also, while the William has a royal cap toe design, the William 2 uses “knob stitching” to express the step of the cap. Although the differences between the classic first generation William and the hand-stitched William 2 with its modern design are slight, each has its own unique charm.
The finest full-grain leather used for the ” William ” is only available through John Robb, a Hermes company!
The quality of “genuine leather” varies widely, not only in leather shoes but also in wallets and leather jackets. Not only leather shoes, but also wallets and leather jackets can be described as “genuine leather,” but the appearance and feel of the leather will differ depending on the grade of leather used. Genuine leather, top-grain leather, and full-grain leather are the three main types of genuine leather. Genuine leather, the lowest grade, is the leather used for so-called cheap shoes. John Robb dress shoes naturally use the highest grade of full-grain leather.
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Full-grain leather, which includes the ” silver side ” of the leather surface, can only be obtained in limited quantities from a single cow. It is the best material for shoes because it has both ” memory ” of shape and ” return to normal ” properties. With access to the Hermès connection, John Robb is the leather shoe brand with the best access to quality leather in the world. And despite having access to the finest leather, John Robb is also committed to cutting down on 60% to 70% of the leather it uses.
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The slightest cut, insect bite, or blood vessel mark will not be used for William’s uppers. In order to realize the quality that is appropriate for the King of Shoes brand, even the leather cutting process is done under natural light and after careful inspection. The suede model William, which uses the “back side” of the finest full-grain leather, is also very popular.
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Full lining design to wrap around your feet.
High-quality full-grain leather is also used for the lining and insole. The entire inside of the shoe is lined with leather for a full lining specification, which wraps the foot as if it were a part of the skin. The shoes feature moderate friction that prevents them from slipping more than necessary, enhancing the fit, and excellent moisture absorption and desorption to keep them clean at all times.
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Look out for the ” William ” made of John Robb’s unique “museum calf”!
William, which uses ” museum calf ” with its unique marbled, uneven dyeing, is another popular John Robb classic. The unique and unique look is achieved by cooperating with an Italian tannery and finishing the marbled color by hand at the tannery.
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The perfectly sized strap, neither too large nor too modest, gives the John Robb “William” a touch of class.
The double monk strap, held in place by two straps, features a large leather upper. The William strap, in particular, is neither too large nor too modest, creating an exquisite balance and a relaxed atmosphere.
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The “William” double buckle has a semi-permanent shine.
The two buckles, which are also a key design feature, are finished in palladium, which has excellent resistance capabilities against corrosion and oxidation. Lighter than platinum and hypoallergenic, the buckles will not tarnish and will retain their beautiful white luster semi-permanently. This double buckle adds richness and serves as an exquisite accent to an outfit.
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Toe-stitching on the John Robb “William” is impeccable
As the cap toe is also the base of William’s design, the stitching at the toe is as important as the strap. Whether the ” William ” is machine-stitched or hand-stitched, John Robb does not allow even the smallest deviation of a tenth of a millimeter. Even the parts that cannot be recognized unless one stares at them very closely, the thoroughness of the workmanship enhances the perfection of the leather shoes.
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The John Robb “William” silhouette, featuring the refined last “#9795”, is characterized by a neat and relaxed look
John Robb is famous for producing sophisticated lasts. The William series uses the ” #9795 ” last. While based on the “#8695” last, which is representative of John Robb Paris, the William series is characterized by its relaxed fit and calm round toe. Among John Robb’s creations, which often have a slender silhouette, this model has a round toe with a neat and voluminous feel. Although John Robb has DNA from two countries, France and England, it can be said that the William is a pair of shoes that is more British.
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All-around Goodyear construction enhances the comfort of the John Robb “William
The William, which is derived from the aviator and has the essence of military shoes, has a number of designs that are different from those of ordinary dress shoes. One of them is the “all-around Goodyear method,” in which the outstitching goes all the way around the sole. The Goodyear welt method, which is synonymous with English shoes, is applied not only to the front half of the shoe but also to 360 degrees. By reducing the number of metal parts such as shanks and nails, this manufacturing method is often used for country shoes that can be worn actively, because it produces the advantages of excellent cushioning and lightweight shoes.
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Another advantage of the all-around Goodyear method is that more cork can be placed inside the shoe than usual. John Robb, who is also thoroughly particular about the soleing process, uses full-grain leather for the stiffener, which is the invisible core material, and lavishly lays down cork. The cork is filled with wet cork and left to dry and harden overnight to further enhance the fit of the cushioned all-around Goodyear manufacturing method.
John Robb’s “William” even supports light outdoor activities with its country-derived double sole!
William uses a “double sole” design, a double-layer construction with another midsole sandwiched between the outsole and insole. Naturally, the sole is thicker than a normal single sole, which makes it more durable and water-resistant. On the other hand, the soles are stiffer, so there is less bounce when walking, and it takes time for the shoes to adjust to the foot. The toe portion tends to wear out noticeably, so toe-steel or other reinforcement is essential, but the appeal of these shoes is that once they become accustomed to the foot, there is little fatigue even after walking all day. These country-oriented specifications are suitable for even light outdoor activities such as hiking in the mountains.
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This is John Robb quality! William” with attention to detail down to the outsole!
Dress shoes with Goodyear welt soles normally leave grooves (channels) on the outsole. William’s shoes are finished with “Hidden Channels,” which hide the grooves. The Hidden Channel finish, which requires advanced craftsmanship and is used only for bespoke shoes and high-end ready-to-wear shoes, has the advantage that the stitches are more difficult to break than open channels. Above all, it has an artistic beauty.
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The heel portion is fitted with rubber only in the areas most prone to wear and tear, extending the life of the heel until the all-sole is repaired. Another point of attention is that the nails are made less visible than in ordinary dress shoes.
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The one and only boot-shaped double monk strap ” William 2 Boots
Based on the William 2, the ” William 2 Boot ” was introduced in 2009 as a boot. These ankle boots are more similar in shape to the aviator boots from which they originated, and the last is the familiar William “#9795. Like the short boots, they have a voluminous round toe and can be worn with a wide range of outfits, from denim to slacks. The unlined opening is very comfortable for the foot, and the fit is also very good.
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Since the base of the design is the William 2, the straight tip is sewn by hand. Three-dimensional knob stitching is applied. Double Monk boots themselves are rare, but these boots are made with a luxurious use of a single piece of high-quality full-grain leather, and it can be said that only John Robb could have created these boots.
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