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Lee’s revolutionary jeans “101,” loved by the famous actor James Dean – its history, charm, and recommended models.

Lee's revolutionary jeans "101," loved by the famous actor James Dean - its history, charm, and recommended models.

Along with Levi’s and Wrangler, Lee is one of the three major brands of jeans. Did you know that Lee is the creator of the zipper fly jeans that have become a standard item? In this issue, we focus on Lee’s most popular model “101” and introduce its history, charm, and recommended models!

What is Lee?Denim brand that achieved a unique evolution from a food wholesaler to a symbol of American casual

Founded in 1899 in Kansas, U.S.A., Lee is a well-established brand that is indispensable when talking about jeans. The company is known as one of the “three major jeans brands” along with Levi’s and Wrangler because of its innovation in adopting the world’s first zipper fly and its philosophy of robust manufacturing that began with workwear. In 1911, the company established its own factory and started full-scale operations as a jeans manufacturer. In the 1920s, the brand’s later iconic masterpiece, the “101,” was born, and in 1927, the “101-Z,” a zipper-fly model was introduced to the jeans market, which until then had only button-fly jeans, rewriting the rules of the game. This innovation is still an indispensable element of the Lee brand.

A masterpiece that paved the way for jeans history with the world's first zipper fly

The Lee “101” is an indispensable masterpiece in the history of jeans, and 2025 marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of the style number. Originally released in 1924 as “COWBOY PANTS,” they were given the style number ” 101″ in 1925. Then in 1927, the world’s first jeans with a zipper fly, the ” 101-Z,” were introduced. The Lee “101” was more than just a product name; it was a pioneer in bringing the zipper innovation to denim. This model, which has remained the flagship of the brand, has influenced many jeans even today.

Chronology of Lee “101” Jeans

1924 Debut of ” COWBOY PANTS ” developed for cowboys using 13oz denim.
1925 The “101” style number is added.
1927 The world’s first “101Z” zipper fly jeans with a shrink-proof finish are developed.
1938 Discontinuation of copper rivets on back pockets in favor of “threaded rivets” with an X-shaped cane.
1946 Adoption of “lazy S stitching COWBOY” is changed to “RIDERS” and the trademark “RIDERS” is registered.
1955 The famous actor James Dean wears a pair of RIDERS in the movie ‘ Rebel Without a Cause
1958 Style number “100” WESTERNER is created, replacing 101 with satin. It became popular among “Ivy League” students on the East Coast of the United States.

About 30 years after their introduction, the 101 became a rage among young people when star James Dean wore them in the 1955 film ‘ Rebel Without a Cause. The nickname “Lee Riders” has remained popular to this day. Incidentally, James Dean was once featured in a commercial for Levi’s, but he used to wear Lee’s in his private life. He was once used in a Levi’s commercial, but in his private life, he loves Lee. His style spread the potential of jeans as a fashion item to the world.

Click here to see the nostalgic Levi’s commercial.

Here is a detailed description of the current model of Lee ” 101″ Jeans with its charm and features!

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