Slacks” are the bottoms with a neat adult look that are indispensable for creating beautiful coordination from dress to casual wear, on or off the job. Slacks, which have a tailored, dressy feel as standard equipment, can be worn not only with jackets, but also with casual outfits with shirts and T-shirts. In this issue, we focus on ” slacks ” and introduce everything from how to choose them to what to wear and what items to look out for!
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What are slacks?
The word “slacks” conjures up images of slim and dressy suit pants, but the word “slacks,” named after the American English word “slack,” originally referred to all casual pants with room to spare, excluding work clothes and jeans. In the U.S., the term was used to refer to pants other than suits, but today it is used to refer to semi-formal pants. The same is true in Japan, where pants that come with suits and dressy pants are called “slacks.
Incidentally, the British English word “trousers” is often used as a synonym, but it has a more dressy image than slacks. In English-speaking countries, dress pants are basically called trousers, so it is smart to distinguish between slacks and trousers when shopping overseas.
Six points men should pay attention to when choosing slacks!
There are many points to consider when choosing slacks, such as size, silhouette, and detail design. For men who are struggling to choose the right slacks, here is a list of recommended points to pay attention to first!
Points to consider when choosing slacks (1) “The silhouette greatly influences the look of the outfit!
The first thing to pay attention to in slacks is the silhouette. Here, we will explain the points of reference for choosing slacks from the two perspectives of “royal road” and “trend”!
The royal road to success is the “tapered silhouette”!
The most basic slacks today are those with a tapered silhouette that has a moderate amount of room around the waist and narrows toward the hem. The most common style is one that naturally tapers toward the ankle along the leg line, as if to take advantage of the body’s proportions. Another point that cannot be overlooked is that the width of slacks in the mainstream today is around 18 cm, which is slightly narrower than the width of the standard slacks. Modern silhouette slacks with plenty of room in the crotch while maintaining a moderately smart atmosphere at the leg should be owned as a regular item that can be used both on and off the job.
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If you choose from a trend perspective, “wide slacks” are the way to go!
If you choose slacks from a trend point of view, you should aim for wide silhouettes with a deep crotch, a loose waist, and a silhouette that falls down to the feet, reminiscent of the Armani soft suit style that was popular during the bubble era in the 1980s. The silhouette of the pants is close to what fashionable people think is the current mood. Or, if you prefer the city boy fashion of the season, with its traditional style sublimated into an oversized, modern style, the Pied Stem chinos may be just right for you. In any case, while tastes may differ, the common silhouette of pants is wide, which is attracting attention.
Points to consider when choosing slacks (2) “Pay attention to tucks and pleats, which are the face of slacks!
Next to the silhouette, tuck pleats are the most important detail that determines the look of slacks. It is interesting to note that the trend in the presence or absence and number of pleats differs depending on the era. It is not necessary to follow the trend, but one pleat can make a big difference in the impression, so why not be aware of the presence or absence of pleats when choosing slacks? The following is an introduction to the characteristics and appeal of each of the three types of pleats: “no pleats,” “two pleats/two-tuck,” and “one pleat.”
The “no-pleats” style, which was the mainstream in the 2000s, is characterized by its stylish appearance.
No-pleats refers to pants without pleats. Many people are familiar with no-pleat slacks, as slim, no-pleat pants were considered the king of the business scene for about 10 years in the 2000s. In the past few years, pleated slacks have been the norm, but with Y2K fashion beginning to attract attention in recent years, the boom may be rekindled.
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If you want to create a classic mood, “two-tuck” is the way to go!
Pleats (tucks) create a relaxed waist, which is a trend. The pleats around the waist are a detail that adds visual flair while allowing for playful movement. Two such details, one on each side of the front, are called “two-tuck/two pleats. With the current trend to return to the classics, it is no exaggeration to say that almost all trend-conscious pants incorporate this detail.
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When in doubt, the well-balanced “one pleat” is the best choice.
For those who cannot decide between two pleats or no-pleat pants, a pair of slacks with one pleat and a moderate amount of room will be the best choice. The silhouette is somewhere between smart and loose, and will fit easily to your body, making you look stylish and trend conscious.
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Trivia: What is the difference between a tuck and a pleat?
The names “tucked pants” and “pleated pants” can be found in stores, magazines, and social networking sites. Many people are at a loss to answer when asked about the difference between them. Basically, pleats and tucks are called by the following judgment. If you keep this in mind, you should be able to respond smartly when store staff uses technical terms.
Pleats: A straight crease in the fabric from top to bottom.
・Tucks: A line of pleats that is erased in the middle.
In fact, pleats on slacks are called differently depending on their direction!
Incidentally, the direction of the pleats is also important. The in-pleat (forward pleat), in which the pleats face inward, is considered a classic English detail. In Italy, out-pleats (reverse pleats) are more common, and are said to give a more casual look. It is recommended to use different types depending on the occasion and style.
[ Related article ] Pleated pants men’s coordinate special! Introducing stylish outfits and items with a mature and comfortable feel.
Point 3: “If you are wearing classic slacks, you should not wear a belt. But if you need a belt for business occasions, go for one with belt loops!
If you want to incorporate a classic style, beltless is another option that you should not miss. Belt loops are a detail that originated in the 1920s and have a short history in the history of clothing and were used for work clothes and military uniforms. The world’s first jeans “501” developed by Levi’s also did not have belt loops, and the early models were hung with suspenders. Therefore, the beltless version is the most classic, and it is considered legitimate to suspend the pants with suspenders and adjust them with side adjusters at the waist.
However, a belt is one of the indispensable items in the business scene. Without a belt, the suit style is not tight and can look somewhat sloppy. Therefore, in today’s business scene, it is better to wear a belt when you have an important meeting, presentation, or conference, which requires a neat and tight outfit. Incidentally, it is considered common not to wear a belt when wearing a three-piece suit in situations where formal attire is required, so it is best to choose whether or not to wear a belt depending on the type of suit as well as the occasion.
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[ Related article] A belt suitable for a suit style is a necessity for men! Introducing a variety of items that can be used for both business and everyday use.
Key Points for Selecting Slacks (4) “The promise is to choose fabrics and patterns appropriate for the occasion and the season.
No matter how particular you are about silhouettes and details, if you don’t use fabrics that match the season, your coordination will look out of place, and you won’t even want to wear it. Fabrics that are comfortable in all seasons, such as Loro Piana’s “Four Seasons” and Dormer’s “Amadeus 365,” are of course fine, but if you want to add a sense of fashion to your coordination However, if you want to add a sense of fashion to your coordination, it is also hard to abandon the option of creating a sense of the season. For spring and summer, use lightweight fabrics such as cotton, linen and summer wool. For fall and winter, choose fabrics with a raised and heavy feel, such as flannel, sakysony, and tweed, to create a sense of the season.
| Main fabrics for spring and summer | Main fabrics for fall and winter |
| Cotton twill | Flannel |
| Linen | Saxony |
| Mohair | Tweed |
| Seersucker | Corduroy |
| Tropical Wool | Cavallier Twill |
| Fresco | Velvet |
| Crepe | Doskin |
| Cord Lane | Velours |
For those who frequently travel on business, we recommend slacks made of wrinkle-resistant fabrics such as Zegna’s “Traveler”. Models made of polyester, nylon, and other synthetic fibers with stretchability, wrinkle resistance, and washability are also good.
[ Related article ] Special feature on how to wear summer suits! Introducing everything from how to choose fabrics and colors to trends, the hottest men’s coordinates, and recommended brands.
Points to consider when selecting slacks: 5. “Choose a hem finish that suits the occasion! Single vs. double hem”
The hem of the pants of swallow-tailed suits, tuxedos, and morning dresses, which are known as traditional formal wear, generally do not have a folded hem. This makes them formal for single wearers and sporty for double wearers. Double trousers are taboo for ceremonial occasions such as weddings and funerals, but in business situations, there is no problem in choosing either single or double trousers. The basic width of double slacks is 3.5 to 4 cm, and if they are too thick, they may look too casual.
[ Related article ] Which do you choose when hemming slacks? Double vs. Single]
Key Points for Selecting Slacks (6) “The royal road to success is a brand specialized in pants!
It is none other than Italy’s proud brand specializing in pants that has created the trend of returning to the classics that has continued for several years. The brand has interpreted classic British details and modernized them in an Italian way, while paying particular attention to the fabrics. If you are looking for trend-conscious slacks, why not check out a brand specializing in pants that takes the high road?
INCOTEX” is Italy’s most prestigious brand specialized in pants.
The INCOTEX pants brand was founded in Venice, Italy in 1951. It started out as a factory with about 20 employees, but its products made from high quality materials and craftsmen’s skillful sewing techniques have been highly evaluated. The high quality and reliability of its products have earned it a reputation for producing pants for world-renowned brands such as Burberry and Prada in the past. The company boasts a refined and beautiful leg silhouette and outstanding comfort thanks to carefully selected materials and advanced cutting and sewing techniques. Many models, such as the “N35,” which incorporates details to accommodate the Japanese, and the “N24,” an evolved version of the N35 with pleats, have received high acclaim.
PT TORINO” is a brand specialized in pants that Mr. Domenico Gianfurrate handles.
PT TORINO” was established in Torino, Italy in 2008. Although the brand has a shorter history than other brands specializing in pants, it has gained an unshakeable position as an Italian pants brand. The brand is also famous for its director, Domenico Gianfrarte, who is a regular contributor to men’s fashion snapshots. Under the concept that “the most important item in men’s clothing is pants,” the pants that are made with technology and know-how are truly a gem. The “TRAVELLER,” a standard model, and “THE DRAPER,” a new classic with modern interpretations of classic details and silhouettes, are gaining popularity. They are gaining popularity. The versatility of these pants, which can be used not only for everyday wear but also as business pants, is one of the reasons why men are attracted to them.
GTA” is a brand specialized in pants with a reputation for its beautiful silhouette.
GTA” was founded in 1955 in Servazzano, Italy, and is known as a factory specializing in pants. It is as well known and popular in Japan as INCOTEX and PT01, and has a reputation for comfort and the beauty of its lines. GTA is known for its manufacturing with attention to detail, using expressive and colorful fabrics and silhouettes with beautiful legs, buttocks, and leg-lengthening effects, which it has cultivated through years of making dress pants. The wide range of choices is also a pleasure, including the very popular “BAYRON” with one pleat and the classically designed “HERRIK” with two pleats and a beltless design.
Serious pants specialized brand “ROTA” that makes tsu-ducks groan with its attention to detail.
A brand specializing in pants established in Parma, Italy in 1962. The brand has gained the support of fashion experts around the world for its serious approach to pants production, paying attention to details that ordinary brands do not incorporate. For example, the buttons used in all parts of the pants are nut buttons, and the hems of the pants are reinforced with fabric to enhance their robustness. The universal lines and elegant atmosphere of these pants, which are distinctly different from the current mainstream, make them an attractive brand representing Classico Italia.
Pants specialized brand “BERWICH” that handles slacks with a playful spirit that seems to be Italian
ICOMAN 2000 s.r.l., which was founded in 1975 in Martina Franca, Puglia, Italy, as a company specializing in pants, launched its original pants brand “BERWICH” in 2004. The brand offers many models characterized by a tapered, modern silhouette. The brand is 100% made in Italy, even down to the parts, and has garnered support for its manufacturing that incorporates playful details. There are many highly popular models such as “PIERO,” which has a classical atmosphere and a form that incorporates modern moods, and “RAFFI,” which has a fluid tapered silhouette.
For more information on Italian brands specializing in pants, please check this article.
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