Which do you choose for hemming slacks? [ Double vs. single ].

Single vs. double” is an eternal debate in suiting and jackets styles. Whenever I go to a store where I buy a suit, I am asked the question, “Do you want single or double hemming?” Many of you may be wondering whether you should have single or double hemming. In this issue, we focus on the “Single-Double Hemming Debate” and introduce the origins and merits of the double hemming method.

Is it safer to hem a business suit with a single or double hem?

The hems of trousers in traditional formal wear, such as tails, morning coats, and tuxedos, are generally not folded up. This is why there is a common belief that “double suits look sporty, and single suits are safer for business use. This is a misconception. Business suits themselves are not formal attire, but rather informal attire, so in a sense they are sporty and casual compared to formal attire, and there is nothing wrong with double suits, which are considered sporty and casual. In addition, it can be said that ” a sporty double suit suits a man who is actively working on the front lines of business. Of course, it is impossible to use double hems for formal wear such as tails, morning coats, and tuxedos, but there is absolutely no problem with double or single hems for business suits, even from a global perspective.

Double or single hemming is Japanese-English!

In Europe and the U.S., double hemming is said to be “turn up” and single hemming is “plain,” so those who plan to buy a suit when they are stationed overseas or on vacation should keep this in mind. Incidentally, “turn up” is the mainstream for business suits in Europe and the U.S., regardless of fashion trends.

There were three theories on the origin of double hemming!

Three theories exist as to the origin of the double finish.

Origin of double hemming of slacks (1) “The theory that New Yorkers misunderstood an English gentleman’s mistake”

In the early 20th century, an English aristocrat was on his way to a wedding in New York when he was caught in a sudden shower and forgot to return his slacks to the venue, leaving them folded over to prevent them from getting wet or dirty. The theory is that the participants saw this and mistakenly thought that this was the fashionable style, and it took root. Some books vary in setting, such as England and President McKinley instead of the British aristocracy.

Origin of double hemming of slacks (2) “The theory that it originated from the muddy paddock of a racetrack

A theory that the origin of the name is Lewis Ham, a member of the House of Commons of the United Kingdom. The racehorse owner’s style of folding back the hem to prevent it from getting soggy in a rainy, muddy paddock was extremely cool, and many gentlemen began to secretly adopt it.

Origin of double hemming of slacks (3) “The theory that it was born during hunting

The origin of this style is said to be that Scottish aristocrats who were passionate about sport hunting rolled up their hems. Although the origin is unclear, there is a commonality in the use of the hem to prevent mud splashes and wetting. It seems certain that it was born from a rough, practical, masculine idea.

Double hemming of suit pants to balance with shoes

When the lounge coat, the origin of the suit, was born, the fabric was so thick and heavy that the idea of folding it over itself did not exist. However, the fabric used for suits today is much thinner and more delicate than it was back then. By adding a double fold over, it is possible to create a presence that is as strong as that of the shoes, and to achieve balance. In particular, the double finish is a good match for the massive Goodyear-welted shoes born in England.

On the other hand, if you are wearing shoes with a narrow width and a slightly long nose design, such as Italian Mackay leather shoes, a single finish may be a better balance.

What is the correct width of double hemming for slacks?

If you decide to use a single finish, the hesitation will disappear, but if you decide to use a double finish, the hesitation will arise as to how many centimeters of width you should use. Generally speaking, the orthodox width is ” 3.5 cm to 4 cm. Incidentally, the current trend is toward a slightly thicker ” 4.5~5.5 cm. If you choose a thicker width, you should adjust it carefully so that the overall balance is not lost. Since there are individual differences in height, leg length, suit style, type of shoes owned, and personal preferences, it is most important to examine the shoes carefully in front of a full-length mirror, taking the above into consideration. There are two types of fastening methods: hook and thread, but the thread fastening method is the global standard. The hook closure is the Japanese style, which makes it easier to clean accumulated dust and dirt, and is not considered elegant in the UK and Italy because the hook is visible from above.