Tricker’s ” BOURTON” is one of the most iconic external wingtip pairs. It has the exemplary specifications of country shoes, such as broguing decoration, double welt, and double sole, while achieving the highest quality in all of them. The shoe is initially stiff to the point of being brusque, but as it is worn in, it fits the foot like a “tsundere,” or a “tsundere” (a pair of shoes that are too tight for the foot). In this issue, we focus on the “Barton” by Tricker’s and introduce its charms!
Suponsered by
Tricker’s” is a long-established brand recognized by the British Royal Family.
Trickers is a shoe manufacturer with a factory in Northampton, the holy land of English shoes. It was founded in 1829 by Joseph Tricker. The company boasts a history that spans nearly 190 years, the longest of any British brand. Originally specializing in waterproof shoes, the brand has long been loved by the British people, even though it has been described as “country shoes. Unsurprisingly, Tricker’s has deep ties with the Japanese shoe industry, and Tricker’s craftsmen have visited the “Sarwaka Footwear College,” a school run by Chihiro Yamaguchi, known as a leading expert in tailored shoes, to demonstrate their shoe-making techniques. Also, Toshinosuke Takegahara of ” foot the coacher ” is known for his design work at Tricker’s.
Tricker’s leather shoes made by ” benchmade
Another appeal of Tricker’s is its unique manufacturing process. Traditionally, each step in the manufacturing process of ready-to-wear shoes is done by a different craftsman. The name “bench-made” comes from the fact that the same craftsman sits at the same bench to complete a pair of shoes, a process unique to Tricker’s. Goodyear welted leather shoes require more than 150 steps for any manufacturer. It is not an exaggeration to say that the soul of Tricker’s shoes is put into them, as over 200 processes are handled by a single craftsman.
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The materials used, including the calfskin used for the uppers, are of the highest quality. The quality of the shoes is recognized by the British Royal Family, and Tricker’s has received a Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales. In the United Kingdom, there are many famous long-established leather shoe brands competing with each other, but there are not so many shoe makers who have received the Royal Warrant. Church and Edward Green have yet to obtain one, and even Crockett & Jones finally did so in 2017.
The ” Burton ” by Tricker’s, which introduced the country shoe and country boot to the world.
The Burton is Tricker’s signature external wingtip shoe. Tricker’s is a pioneer in introducing country boots and country shoes to the world, and the Burton, a short shoe, is the latter’s iconic model. The medallion, pinking, and perforations are a beautiful example of all brogue shoes. The last is the ” 4444 ” with a round toe, slightly slimmer than the boot. The all-around Goodyear welt method, which wraps around to the large, sturdy heel with extra-thick stitches, and the storm welt, which prevents water from entering the shoe, symbolize the toughness of the design.
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In addition to the rigid welting, the double sole is thick and waterproof. The toe spring is also set strongly, and once the wearer becomes accustomed to wearing them, they can become a partner that supports a comfortable gait. The shoes are not only functional, but also age well, making them a timeless classic that has many fans among leather shoe lovers as well as clothing enthusiasts.
Tricker’s “Burton” calf leather is strong, supple, and ages well.
Tricker’s is also known for the quality of its leather. The leather is processed in various ways depending on the model, and gorse calf leather, which is resistant to water and dirt, and flexible grain leather are also well-known. Burton uses smooth leather for this orthodox model. The fiber structure is very close, so the texture is fine, and the leather is soft and moist to the touch.
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Tricker’s “Burton” is a tsundere shoe!
Tricker’s calf leather is also famous for being extremely hard to wear. It is a well-known fact that English-made Goodyear welted shoes are hard until they become accustomed to the foot, but new Tricker’s shoes are exceptionally hard, and hardly any wrinkles appear for several days after purchase. Some Trickers aficionados have even described the shoes as “like being challenged to a leather shoe fight” and “like a girl who is cold and very brusque to a man she has just met. The Burton, a short shoe model, is no exception. It gradually fits the foot by being worn slowly and carefully with maintenance for more than a year. And once your feet get used to them, you can enjoy a superb fit that is unimaginable with other ready-made shoes, so they are truly “tsundere” leather shoes.
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Another real appeal of Tricker’s shoes is the way the leather ages (deteriorates over time), deepening the flavor of the shoe. The Burton, which originated from country boots, also deepens its appeal over time as it is carefully worn in. The key to achieving beautiful aging is to keep up with maintenance. Maintenance is not a difficult task; just like with regular dress shoes, brushing and nourishing with cream is all that is required. Dust and dirt left unattended can cause stains and bleaching, and lack of oil can lead to dryness and cracking. To avoid these problems, it is important to brush your shoes after wearing them and to care for them with cream once a month.
The quintessence of the original country shoe! Tricker’s “Burton” brogues
The Burton, synonymous with country shoes, is characterized by its ornate full brogue design. 4-eyelet external shutters give it a rugged look. The medallion around the toe, which has its roots in holes drilled in the shoe to allow moisture to escape, is now an elegant symbol of Burton’s decorative beauty.
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The perforations that combine large and small holes and the pinking of the gilled decoration also show the high level of craftsmanship of the artisans. While the outer wingtip is the most decorative of all leather shoes, Burton does not skimp on detailing and can make its presence felt in a wide range of situations.
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From the royal black to the richly tasted Akon! Color variations of Tricker’s “Burton
In addition to black, Burton also offers maroon, acorn, coffee, and other colors. Including special-order models, there is a very rich color variation, and since every color has its own character, you may feel lost when purchasing, but black is recommended if you want to wear them in a wide range of situations. Although full brogues themselves are not suitable for weddings and funerals, the stately, understated black Burton is an excellent match for suit styles, and can be expected to work well both on and off the job.
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If you are looking for leather shoes for off-duty use, Akon is also a strong choice. This color, which has an antique atmosphere, is the most “country shoe-like” of all. The lighter coloring also allows for a more pronounced aging effect.
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The maroon color is also very popular along with the acorn color. Brown is a standard color for leather shoes, and it is the best color to bring out the charm of wingtips with outside wings. Another advantage of this color is that you can enjoy the aging process as well as the acon.
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Espresso, with its calm atmosphere, is also recommended. Dark brown has a wide range of styles, from casual wear with denim and chinos to more formal attire such as slacks. It is a color you will want to wear in a variety of situations, from office casual to holiday coordination.
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Tricker’s ” Burton ” lasts feature a rounded silhouette and fit
Trickers has two representative lasts. Burton uses the ” 4444 ” last, which is often used in shoe-type designs. It features a slightly sharper round toe form compared to country shoes, which are more rounded. It is voluminous and has a high instep, and while it is generally loose-fitting, the foot part is narrowed. The large curved arch line allows the foot to feel a high fit as if it is pushed up against the ground when inserted.
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Tricker’s “Burton” all-around Goodyear Welted lasts not only fit well, but also act as a “bumper”.
Among the bench-made Tricker’s shoes, the soling technique is the one where the high level of manufacturing technology can be most appreciated. The Goodyear welt method, which is synonymous with Northampton shoes, enhances cushioning and durability. In addition, the country line of Tricker’s, including Burton, uses the all-around Goodyear welt method, in which the welt goes all the way around. This method, also known as double-welted, is also attached around the heel from the foot to the foot, whereas the normal Goodyear welt (single-welted) wraps around only the front half of the shoe.
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The greatest advantage is that cork can be placed even under the heel. This provides more cushioning than conventional leather shoes and improves the fit by allowing the shoe to sink in after wearing. In recent years, there are dress shoes that minimize the protrusion of the cork, but the all-around Goodyear design, in which the cork inevitably extends over the entire circumference of the shoe, also reduces the possibility of bumping and damaging the upper, like a car bumper. The use of metal parts such as shanks and nails is reduced, resulting in a lightweight shoe. This manufacturing method, which is light and cushioned while minimizing the burden on the upper and foot, is an appropriate design for the country-oriented Burton.
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Double sole for durability and water resistance in the Tricker’s ” Burton
The all-around Goodyear welt method and the double leather sole can be said to be a set of specifications. This specification, often used in country shoes and work shoes, consists of a double layer of midsole between the outsole (main sole) and insole (inner sole). Although the use of two layers of leather increases the hardness and weight of the shoe at the start of wear, the durability of the shoe more than makes up for the disadvantages. Water resistance is also greatly improved, making them suitable for walking in the rain.
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The storm welt acts as a “wall” and is a design unique to country footwear
The storm welt is also a specification unique to Burton, whose roots are in hunting shoes. It is characterized by the L-shape when viewed from the front, with a raised crest near the junction of the welt and upper. As the name “storm welt” suggests, it acts as a barrier to prevent dust and water from entering the shoe. It is not only useful for outdoor use, but also provides protection from rain in everyday life. In addition to enhancing robustness, it also adds to Burton’s decorative flair in terms of design.
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Tricker’s “Burton” insole is certified with a Royal Warrant!
Tricker’s is a venerable leather shoe brand with the title of Royal Warrant (British Royal Warrant). The late Princess Diana recommended a pair of Tricker’s room shoes to Prince Charles, and the Prince liked the comfort of the shoes, which led to the Royal Warrant. Prince Charles is known for taking good care of his shoes for decades, even repairing them with patches. The insoles of the Burton are engraved with the three-bladed Royal Arms of the Prince of Wales, which represents the title of Prince Charles, and the words “By Appointment to His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales.
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Tricker’s “Burton” features a Dynaite sole for both functionality and sharp looks!
Many of the Burton shoes currently being developed use a Dynaite sole on the outsole. The Dynaite sole, manufactured by the British company Harbor Rubber, boasts the best grip of all rubber soles. The advantage of this sole is that it is both water-resistant and durable, yet not as thick as a Vibram sole, giving it a sharp appearance similar to a leather sole.
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