Featuring leather shoe brands with more than 50 years of history

Even though the passage of time has led to the use of high-tech technology in the development of clothing, the quality of leather shoes is determined by simple sewing techniques and a good eye for materials. The reason why many long-established brands are still at the forefront of the industry is that traditional skills and know-how are still needed in shoemaking. In addition, each pair of leather shoes made by historical brands has a ” story ” behind them. In this issue, we focus on “leather shoe brands with a history of more than 50 years,” and introduce their charms and standard items in the order of brands with long histories!

Traditional leather shoes brand “Tricker’s” established in 1829

Tricker’s was founded in 1829. Northampton, where the brand is located, is famous as the center of the British shoe industry. Tricker’s is the oldest existing factory in Northampton. The most famous of its legacies to the leather footwear industry are the country boots, which were originally made on work boots. The company took the decorations originally applied to work shoes and incorporated them into leather shoes for gentlemen, establishing a new field of country boots (shoes). The company’s country boots (shoes) are not only beautifully decorated with brogues and other ornaments, but are also top-level in terms of comfort. The 180-year history of the brand is proof enough of its high quality without saying much.

Tricker’s ” Outside wingtip Bourton

The Burton is a popular wingtip shoe that represents Trickers. The toe medallion, perforations, pinking, and other decorative beauties were originated by this brand. The decorations and colors are adorable, but the more you wear them, the more you appreciate the Trickers’ charm. Another advantage is the heavy double leather sole, which allows for tough walking.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “Johnston & Murphy” established in 1850

Founded in 1850, Johnston and Murphy began when William Dudley, a shoemaker and immigrant from England, opened a store in New Jersey. In 1884, James Johnston and William Murphy became the owners of the company, which became the brand’s current name.

Johnston & Murphy “Straight tip with inside wing

The Oxford cap toe is an exemplary example of the rustic look. The round toe is neat, the stitching is unobtrusive, and the modest cuff is simple, but shows fine workmanship. An essential pair for business use.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “Bettanin & Venturi” established in 1850

Founded in 1850, Bettanini & Venturi is the oldest shoe manufacturer in Italy. Based in Verona, the ancient capital of Italy, the company is currently led by Giuseppe Bettanini, the fourth generation of the family, who together with his son are engaged in the traditional handmade shoe business. In recent years, Mr. Bettanin has become one of Italy’s top three shoemakers, and is considered a national treasure in Japan. He has been praised as “the man with the hands of God,” and his shoemaking has become a textbook of traditional craftsmanship at the University of Milan.

Bettanin & Venturi “Coin loafer Hydro Jasper-1

This coin loafer combines an English-style last with an Italian sensibility. The classic silhouette is soleed with the Goodyear flex method, the family specialty of Bettanin & Venturi. The result is a shoe that is both robust and durable, yet light and comfortable. Unlike the Goodyear welt method, the advantage of this method is that the shoes are soft and easy to wear from the start. The embossed brand logo on the leather sole is also a good point.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “John Lobb” established in 1866

John Robb was founded in London in 1866. John Robb is known as the “King of Shoes” and the “King of Leather Shoes” because of the world’s highest level of both beauty and quality. John Robb is strictly divided into two groups, one of which is John Robb (Robb London) in London. One is John Robb London, which specializes in Bespoke shoes and has inherited the traditional techniques of the founding family. The other is John Robb Paris (Robbe Paris), which is led by Hermes, and all ready-made John Robb shoes seen in stores in Japan and elsewhere are from Robbe Paris. Although the head office is located in Paris, John Robb’s ready-to-wear shoes are manufactured using the Goodyear Welt method at the company’s factory in Northampton, England.

John Lobb “Double Monk Strap WILLIAM2

John Robb Paris has introduced many legendary models to the world. Among them is the William, the originator of the double monk strap, which many brands now make as a matter of course, and which was created in 1945 by William Robb, then head of John Robb Paris, in response to an order from the Duke of Windsor. The aviator boots of aviators were the origin of the design, and the design creates an intellectual and noble atmosphere. Incidentally, the WILLIAM has a single letter at the toe stitched by machine, while the WILLIAM2 is hand-stitched.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “GRENSON” established in 1866

Grenson was founded in 1866 by William Green. He started his shoemaking business in a town called Rushden, and became well known by providing costumes for famous American movies. All shoes are made using the Goodyear welt method, and production is divided into four major divisions, carefully crafted over a period of three weeks by skilled craftsmen.

GRENSON “External wingtip Archie

The full brogue Archie is a model developed in Grenson’s high-grade “G2” line. The large perforations and medallions on the upper are distinctive, and the classic silhouette is also unique to Grenson. The thick leather sole, which is not colored, has a presence that is as strong as the upper. The sole is not overly rough, but gives the foot a sense of elegance and dignity.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “OOTSUKA” established in 1872

Otsuka Shoes is a Japanese leather shoe brand founded in 1872. The company has been pursuing shoes that fit Japanese people’s feet by establishing a new culture of Western shoes in Japan. At the Paris World Exposition held in 1889, shoes exhibited by Otsuka Shoes were honored with a silver medal. The company is also known for its bispoke shoes for the imperial family, and is the pride of Japan’s long-established brand. Even today, Otsuka continues to improve its technology and materials, and has incorporated a variety of comfortable walking functions into its shoes. While preserving traditional techniques, the brand offers shoes that can be worn from business scenes to off-time, skillfully incorporating trends. It is not an exaggeration to say that the history of this brand over the past 140 years is the history of Japanese dress shoes.

OTSUKA “Inner wing tip wingtip OT-1100

The full brogue shoes truly express the spirit of careful craftsmanship unique to the Japanese. Not only are they gorgeous to look at, but the 3D internal structure of the shoes fits Japanese people’s feet remarkably well. They also excel in moisture absorption and desorption, making them ideal for walking for long periods of time. The heel portion is concave molded to provide an unparalleled sense of hold.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “Church’s” established in 1873

Church began in 1873 when it opened a small workshop on Maple Street in Northampton. Shoes at that time were shaped without a left-right distinction, but Church was the first to manufacture shoes with a left-right distinction and to introduce half sizes in its size range. This revolutionary invention won Church a gold medal at a shoe exhibition in London in 1881, and in 1965 he received a visit from Queen Elizabeth II, who awarded him the “Queen’s Award,” the highest honor in British industry. The company is actively expanding globally, and is currently one of the most popular British brands in Japan, along with Tricker’s and Crockett & Jones.

Church’s ” Inner Winged Straight Tip CONSUL

The Consul is a typical Church’s straight tip with an inside shuttlecock. The simple yet presentable appearance is worthy of the name “Consul. The last features a well-balanced toe that is neither too angular nor too round. The “#173” last, which is designed for the modern foot shape, has a timeless short-nose form that is truly elegant. The versatile inner-blade straight tip is also extremely popular as an introduction to classic English shoes that should be purchased first.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “CROCKETT & JONES” established in 1879

Crockett & Jones is a leading British shoe brand founded in 1879 in Northampton, England, and has been in existence for nearly 140 years, but most of its history is as an OEM factory that manufactures shoes as a subcontractor for other manufacturers. The company’s technical capabilities are well known among its competitors, and at one time it was even involved in OEM production for John Robb Paris. Since the late 1980s, the company has been focusing on its own brand, proposing new classics for the modern age without changing its traditional approach to shoemaking.

Crockett & Jones “Double Monk Strap LOWNDES

Lowndes are double monk strap shoes with a beautiful silhouette unique to Crockett & Jones. The long nose, square chisel toe, and small heel cup give the shoes a modern feel. The edgy silhouette of the “#348” last and the simple double monk design create a perfect harmony.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “BARKER” established in 1880

Barker is a long-established shoe brand in Northampton, England, founded in 1880. The history of the brand began with only three shoemakers, including the founder, who together with his three sons built a small factory on Station Road in Northampton in 1905. Since then, the brand has grown significantly as a family business. While the leather shoes are made with the solid Goodyear welt method, they have gained popularity among a wide range of customers due to their relatively inexpensive price among English shoes.

Barker “Inner Wingtip Newport

The Newport is a pair from Barker’s high-end “PROFESSIONAL COLLECTION” line. The wingtip style can be used for both casual and business occasions, and the inner-feet make it easy to match with any style. The delicate medallion detailing makes it an elegant gem.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “Alden” established in 1884

Alden, whose name is familiar to many people even if they are not leather shoe fans, was founded in 1884 in Middleborough, Massachusetts, by Charles H. Alden. The company pioneered the field of orthopedic shoes for medical use, which can be worn comfortably by people with foot problems, and became known as the premier brand of ready-to-wear shoes in the United States. With its careful selection of materials including cordovan and manufacturing of shoes with excellent fit, it is a shoe brand that men all over the world admire.

Alden “Outside wingtip wingtip

Alden also produces classic dress shoes, but the American-style wingtip is the most iconic. The heavy triple sole and burgundy color give the shoe a rugged look. The clean, decorative side lines are unique to Alden.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “CHEANEY” established in 1886

Founded in 1886 by Joseph Cheaney, Cheaney has long been recognized as Cheaney’s younger brother brand since it became a part of Church in 1964. It was acquired by Prada along with Church, but became independent in 2009. Cheaney’s shoes, which take more than 160 hours to make and incorporate the latest trends, have been attracting increasing attention in recent years.

CHEANEY “Single Monk Strap WALTER

The Walter is a single monk strap shoe from the Cheaney Classic collection. The shoes are made using the classic wooden pattern “#6184,” which is appropriate for today’s return to the classics. The upper is made of high-quality box calf. The sturdy Goodyear welt method provides excellent comfort for the foot.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “EDWARD GREEN” established in 1890

Edward Green was established in 1890 by the founder Edward Green and his three sons. With their exceptional craftsmanship, the company quickly grew to become one of the world’s most well-known shoe manufacturers. Each shoe is made of the finest quality calfskin and is characterized by traditional shoemaking that incorporates a great deal of manual labor. Since its founding, the company has continued to produce products that even its own shoemakers are impressed with, based on the spirit of ” seeking the highest possible quality.

Edward Green “CHELSEA Straight Tip with Inside Feathers

The Chelsea is Edward Green’s signature straight-tip shoe with an inside shuttlecock. It is no exaggeration to say that the Chelsea is one of the most iconic cap-toe shoes in the world. The last is the sharp looking ” #915E. In contrast to the rounded form of the “#202” wooden pattern, the brand’s basic last, the Chelsea incorporates a fluidity that seems to add a touch of flair. An indispensable masterpiece for the formal occasions of a smart man.

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[ Related article ] Chelsea by Edward Green↓

Traditional leather shoes brand “YANKO” established in 1890

Janco is a Spanish shoe brand founded by Jose Alvaradejo. He has been pursuing shoemaking in Majorca, Spain for more than 120 years, with a focus on in-house integrated manufacturing. The brand is also known as a pioneer of the “yoke sole (composite sole),” which consists of a rubber sole on the front half and a leather sole on the back half. It is a key player in elevating Spanish shoemaking to a world-class level.

YANKO “Outside wing U-tip

This external-blade U-tip shoe is a reissue of the “Atlanta” model, which was once extremely popular. The inner sole is made of kneaded cork, and the more you wear them, the more the cork cushioning material sinks into your foot shape, allowing you to enjoy the outstanding comfort of the shoes. The yoke sole, which combines an uneven tank sole, also offers outstanding functionality. The finishing process includes a cream finish by skilled craftsmen.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “J.M. Weston” established in 1891

J.M. Weston was founded in France in 1891 by Edouard Blanchard. The founder’s son learned the Goodyear welt method when he studied in the U.S., and since then, J.M. Weston has been producing solid and highly functional shoes. The company has a traditional leather tanning process known as “ultra-low-temperature vegetable tanning,” and its modernized designs have earned it a reputation as a leading French traditional shoe brand.

J.M. Weston “Signature Loafer 180

The Signature Loafer 180 can be called the king of coin loafers. The upper made of the finest leather has a neat look that is different from American-made loafers. The superb fit and the texture of the leather as it ages make this a legendary pair in every sense of the word.

Inquiries: 03-6805-1691 ( J.M. Weston Aoyama Store)

[ Related article ] J.M. WESTON’s 180 Signature Loafer↓

Traditional leather shoes brand “AlfredSargent” established in 1899

Alfred Sargent was founded in Northampton in 1899. It has been a family business for over a century, down to the current owners, brothers Paul and Andrew Sargent. With first-rate technical capabilities, they manufacture shoes for many designers, including Ralph Lauren and Paul Smith, in addition to their own brand products. The company’s excellent cost performance is another reason for its popularity.

Alfred Sargent “Semi-brogue EDGAR

Edgar is a highly versatile semi-brogue model. Made using the traditional Goodyear welt method, it is a pair that can be worn for many years. Semi-brogues themselves are a design that is manufactured by all kinds of manufacturers, but even the size of the medallion has a classy appearance that only Alfred Sargent can achieve.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “REGAL” established in 1902

REGAL has been supporting Japanese shoe culture for more than 100 years. The company’s shoe manufacturing process, which actively incorporates the manufacturing methods of the UK, a leading leather shoe manufacturing country, has won high acclaim for its benefits of being comfortable and fatigue-free for the feet. The brand has become a staple for Japanese businessmen. In recent years, the brand has evolved in terms of design, and boasts quality that is comparable to brands from other countries.

REGAL “Outside shuttlecock U-tip

This pair of U-tip shoes is suitable for the Japanese business scene. They feature a stylish and edgy square last silhouette. It is expected to work well not only with suit styles but also with jackets. The glossy upper leather has a wonderful texture.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “Paraboot” established in 1908

Founded in 1908 by Remy Richard Ponvert, the French brand Paraboot was turned around in 1926 with the discovery of a natural rubber material called latex. At a time when leather soles were the norm, Paraboot was the first in the world to create the revolutionary rubber sole. Since then, the brand has created iconic models such as the Chambord and Mikael one after another, and has become one of France’s leading brands. More than 150 processes are involved in making a single pair of shoes. As many as 200 skilled craftsmen make as many as 350,000 pairs of shoes every year.

Paraboot “Outside shuttlecock U-tip CHAMBORD

Chambord, the standard U-tip shoe. The original rubber sole is stitched with the sturdy Goodyear welt method, creating a masterpiece with a fascinatingly original silhouette. The upper is made of leather soaked in plenty of oil. The leather upper is made of oil-soaked leather, which is also highly water-repellent and can be worn regardless of the occasion.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “JALAN SRIWIJAYA” established in 1919

Jalan Sriwaya was originally an Indonesian shoe factory established by Tedde Chandra in 1919. He learned leather production know-how in France and manufacturing methods in England, laying the foundations for the company’s current business. Having been involved in subcontracted production for many brands, his technical skills are among the best in the world. The brand is gaining attention year after year for its quality and specifications that do not match the price.

JALAN SRIWAYA “Double Monk Strap

The double monk strap exudes elegance. The upper is made of calf leather from the French company ” Dupuis,” which is also used by John Robb and others. The manufacturing process is also of a high level, with the upper, welt, and insole sewn together by hand using the hand-welted Goodyear method. The last pair, “#11120,” has a smart round toe for a stylish look.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “Allen Edmonds” established in 1922

Allen Edmonds was founded in the United States in 1922. The brand has been loved by shoe lovers around the world as a brand that has been used by successive presidents. The company’s shoes have been known for their comfort since their establishment, and have established themselves as a leading brand not only in the U.S. but also in Europe and Asia. 360-degree Goodyear welt manufacturing and other unique manufacturing methods are used by many celebrities.

Allen Edmonds ” Perforated cap toe Fifth Avenue

Allen Edmonds’ signature work, Park Avenue, is known as the shoes worn by successive U.S. presidents when they first arrive in office. Unlike the common Goodyear welt method, the 360-degree Goodyear welt method, which is applied from the sides to the calf, offers superior comfort. The small perforations give the shoes a noble dignity.

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Traditional leather shoe brand “A TESTONI” established in 1929

A Testoni is a shoe manufacturer founded in 1929 in Bologna, Italy. The brand name comes from the name of Amedeo Testoni, who was born into a family of shoemakers. The company’s unique “Bolognese method” and other techniques have created a bag-like, enveloping fit. In terms of design, they are said to be a symbol of Italian shoes.

A TESTONI “Plain toe with outside shuttlecock

These external-blade plain-toes have a unique texture, with high-grade deerskin used for the upper. The sharp round-toe silhouette is perfect for a suit style. The simple design of the plain toe highlights the beauty of the leather.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “MAGNANNI” established in 1954

Magnani is a Spanish shoe brand established in 1954. It is a factory that specializes in the ” Bolognese method “, a variation of the Mackay method, and has a technology that is rare in the world. The upper and liner are highly adhered to each other, providing softness and a comfortable fit. It is also famous for its hand-finished coloring, also known as ” the magician of color.”

MAGNANNI “Hole cut medallion

From a distance, these hall-cut shoes look like semi-brogues. The single-piece leather upper has no stitching and features Adelaide’s wingspan and straight tips with medallions. The beautiful brown color is applied by hand finishing, a family specialty.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “ENZO BONAFE” established in 1963

Enzo Bonafetto was founded in 1963. The company’s roots date back to 1963, when the founder began making shoes under his own name after gaining training and experience in shoemaking at A Testoni, another Italian brand. Although the company’s history of about 50 years is one of the youngest among shoe brands, its high quality and sincere attitude toward shoemaking are comparable to those of other long-established shoe brands. VIPs from European countries, such as former Pope John Paul II, have been patronizing the brand’s shoes.

ENZO BONAFE “Single monk strap

High-quality single monk strap shoes made with the Goodyear a Mano (nine-part tailoring) method. The upper is made of French Dupuis leather. The outsole is also made of genuine leather and features excellent breathability and moisture absorption. Both the materials and manufacturing method are of high spec.

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Traditional leather shoes brand “SILVANO SASSETTI” established in 1964

Silvano Sassetti was founded in 1964 in Monte San Pietrangeli, Italy. Based on his wealth of experience, he developed his own manufacturing method, the ” Goodyear Flex Method,” and has continued to develop high-quality leather shoes. The company is also constantly developing new materials and wood patterns for its products. He is also the heir to the Maestro Calzolio, which refers to “a craftsman of the highest skill and spirit” in Italy.

Silvano Sassetti “Wingtip with inside wingtip

These wingtips are made using the Goodyear flex method, which is synonymous with Silvano Sacchetti, and are surprisingly flexible while maintaining durability. The upper is made of supple Italian leather. The broguing and stitching are both very carefully crafted, giving a gorgeous appearance to the foot.

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