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Functional beauty of Crockett & Jones “NORWICH” (4) “Masterpiece last “348” combines beauty and fit
Crockett & Jones boasts the largest number of lasts in the world. Norwich uses the ” 348 ” last. This last is based on Crockett & Jones’ signature “337” last, which originated in Paris. In 2002, at the height of the Classico Italia boom, the semi-square toe “337” was developed to create a stir in the leather shoe industry, which was dominated by the square toe. This last, which was created with the input of a bespoke craftsman with a workshop in Paris, is commonly known as the “Paris last” and is still a representative wooden model of the brand. The “348” is a more modernized and stylish update of the “337.
Compared to the 337 and 367 lasts, which are standard lasts, the 348 is characterized by a narrower toe and a long-nose silhouette. While being a solid and sturdy English derby shoe, it also has a glamorous Italian taste. The three-dimensional chisel toe is also a unique Norwich attraction. The chisel toe, which is said to have been popularized by English shoemaker George Cleverly, was named after the chiseled shape of the toe when viewed from the side. In addition to the edgy silhouette, the chisel toe adds a dress-like impression to the Norwich.
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The neat and small heel cup is also noteworthy. The heel cup is shaped to fit the Japanese foot with a high sense of hold, making it extremely comfortable to wear. The soft upper leather creates an elegant back view, not to mention the comfort of the foot.
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Functional beauty of Crockett & Jones “NORWICH” (5) “Goodyear welt method with outstanding durability
Speaking of Crockett & Jones leather shoes, the soles are made using the ” Goodyear Welt method, ” the royal road to English shoes. Norwich is no exception and is tailored using the traditional manufacturing process. Based on the hand-sewn method called “hand-sawn welted,” the Goodyear welted method, which enables mass production by machine, is characterized by the fact that the upper and outsole are not directly sewn together, but are instead sewn together via a narrow leather called a welt. The outsole and welt are stitched together at the welt, so anyone with a little knowledge of leather shoes will recognize the Goodyear Welt method just by looking at the welt. The sole can be repaired by untying the stitching on the welt, so if you are so inclined, you can continue to wear them for a lifetime.
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Because they are so sturdily made, they are hard when new, making them somewhat difficult to walk on at first. However, the more they are worn in, the more they become comfortable for the wearer’s feet because of the abundant cork lining in the sole. The comfort of wearing them after they are completely fitted to one’s feet is something that cannot be experienced with any other manufacturing method. Although not as light as the Mackay method, the Goodyear welt method is more suitable for walking for long hours because the moderate weight naturally sends the foot forward. Goodyear welt is the most suitable manufacturing method for Norwich, a derby shoe that is useful in business situations, because of its outstanding durability.
The massive double sole enhances the functionality of the NORWICH.
Norwich is a dress shoe that uses a double sole specification, with one more midsole laid on top of the outsole. Naturally, the durability and water resistance are greatly improved over the single sole used for ordinary leather shoes. They also look more massive, adding polish to the power of Norwich. The disadvantage is that the thicker sole takes more time for the foot to adjust to it. However, the toe spring from the ball joint to the toe is also well designed, so the center of gravity can be shifted smoothly when walking.
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Crockett & Jones “NORWICH” Functional beauty (6) “Outsole that produces excellent grip
The Norwich is equipped with many functional elements, such as the “external shuttlecock,” “Goodyear welt,” and “double sole. Of course, the outsole is also a must-have. Norwich’s outsole, made of Dainite rubber manufactured by Halboro Rubber, is characterized by its non-slip and extremely durable properties. The uneven surface of the sole provides optimum grip when walking. The sole is not rugged and is flat on the outside, which does not detract from Norwich’s sophisticated atmosphere.
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