Crockett & Jones’ Hidden Masterpiece Penny Loafer! What is the charm of “HARVARD”?

Crockett & Jones “Harvard” feature (3) “The stitch design of the counter that supports the unlined specification in the shadows

The Harvard counterstitching is well known among shoe lovers. At first glance, it appears to be a decorative stitch as a design feature, but it plays an important role in leather shoes. In the case of unlined shoes, the tiptoe and counter core, which shape the shoe, are exposed, which can lead to loss of shape and pain in the leather shoe due to fraying of the core material, not to mention comfort. For this reason, Harvard has adopted a lining design that resembles pockets for interlining in the toe and heel areas. In the counter core, it is necessary to provide strength because these are the areas that are subjected to the most load due to slippage when taking off and putting on the shoes and when walking, so it is necessary to sew those pockets in. The characteristic curved stitching on the counter is not only a design element, but also an important gimmick.

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Crockett & Jones “Harvard” feature ④ “Hand-stitched scooped mocca with a luxurious feel

The American-style chubby form is one of the characteristics of Harvard shoes, but there are also many points that are typical of English shoes. One of them is the mocca design on the vamp (instep), which is said to be the face of the shoe. Harvard uses a design called ” scoop mocca ” or ” grab mocca “, which is said to require a high level of skill among mocca designs. A single piece of leather is used, and the technique of pinching the leather and applying stitches is done by hand-stitching by craftsmen. This is one of the techniques that only a skilled craftsman can perform, as it requires a subtle adjustment of sewing force to ensure that the force applied to each pair is even.

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