Crockett & Jones’ Hidden Masterpiece Penny Loafer! What is the charm of “HARVARD”? Page 4

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Crockett & Jones' Hidden Masterpiece Penny Loafer! What is the charm of "HARVARD"?

Goodyear-welted loafers should be sized carefully

The Goodyear-welted method, which is also used at Harvard, is a standard English shoe manufacturing method. In the Goodyear-welted method, the sole is attached by sewing the sole (outsole) and the welt, and the gap between the insole and the sole is filled with cork. It is known that the cork sinks into the sole as the shoe is worn in, and the shoe becomes more comfortable, but there is a disadvantage that the shoe size increases as the cork sinks into the sole.

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In the case of dress shoes with laces, a slight increase in shoe size can be covered by tightening the laces, but this is not the case with loafers. It is important to adjust the size so that the instep, which holds the foot in place, does not become too loose, taking into consideration the sinkage. Although there are individual differences depending on the amount of cork in the loafer and the texture of the leather including the leather sole, the key to selecting the right size for a Goodyear-welted loafer such as Harvard is to have a tight-width (foot width and circumference) foot. Also, since the foot length does not change when the cork sinks in, it is essential to select a size that does not cause pain in the heel without the fingers hitting the toe area.

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