
When you start counting, you will realize that there are so many bag brands. Even the world-famous Louis Vuitton started out as a travel bag brand. Here in Japan, too, there are many excellent bag brands. Japanese bag brands have long had a reputation for quality and functionality. A representative brand is Porter. The brand is developed by Yoshida Kaban, and among its many series, the most popular is the Tanker.
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What is Tanker? Who is Porter? Who is Yoshida Kaban?Porter, Japan's leading bag brand
Yoshida Kaban’s first brand “Porter” was launched in 1962. The name was derived from the fact that porters, who take care of luggage in hotels and other places, are always in touch with bags and know whether they are good or bad.
↑Bag made for the movie “Heaven and Hell,” currently on display at PORTER TOKYO
Yoshida Kaban, which has Porter as its own brand, was first established in 1935 by founder Kichizo Yoshida as Yoshida Bag Manufacturing Co. With the motto of “one stitch, one soul,” the company made its name and capabilities known by producing elegant bags with a zipper that allows the gusset width to be changed, as well as the leather briefcase used as a prop in Akira Kurosawa’s movie “Heaven and Hell.
There is a reason why it is supported!Tanker's 3 unchanging charms
Porter’s Tanker series was introduced in 1983 and now enjoys a tremendous following around the world. We will first look back at the history of the tanker until it established its current position, and then introduce the 3 unchanging charms of the tanker.
Tanker's unchanging appeal 1Longstanding relationship of trust between designers and domestic craftsmen
In 1981, the then chief designer was selected as a member of the New York Designers Collective, a group of designers that includes world-renowned designers. In 1981, the then chief designer was selected as a member of the New York Designers Collective, a group of world-renowned designers. This was the start of sales at famous select stores overseas. At that time, it was very rare for a Japanese bag brand to expand overseas. In the first place, it was rare for a Japanese bag brand to establish itself as a planning and development company. It was this background that led to the birth of Tanker, which was highly fashion-conscious.
Even today, the role of the planning and development staff is still significant, and they are entrusted with the responsibility for everything from planning to material selection and communication with craftsmen. It is precisely because they make full use of their craftsmanship while also manufacturing from the perspective of product development that these products are valued as fashionable items as well as practical items.
Tanker's unchanging appeal 2Ahead of the times instead of following the times
Porter has been recognized for its capabilities not only in Japan but also overseas. The Tanker was born out of the creation of numerous series.
The Tanker was introduced in 1983 with the motif of the material used in flight jackets for the U.S. Air Force. The series has now become a standard item, but for several years after its launch, it was in a slump. Although the tanker was well accepted by some stylists, buyers, and other “connoisseurs,” the general public at the time did not yet have the sense to enjoy military wear as a fashion item, and there was little interest in the fashion-conscious tanker.
A turning point came in 1986, when the movie ” Top Gun ” was released, bringing about an unprecedented military fashion boom. Gradually, military items began to gain recognition in the fashion scene. This was an opportunity for tankers, and they began to attract attention, but the bubble economy that followed brought many licensed brands from overseas to Japan. Although the tanker was attracting attention, it could not be called a popular series among Porter’s products.
Then the bubble burst, and the fashion movement shifted to the street. The so-called “90’s street boom” brought about a renewed feverish interest. By the mid-1990s, the popularity of the series was in full swing. Celebrity users often appeared in magazines and collaborations with popular street brands were announced one after another, making it a symbol of the 90’s street.
The Tanker is a symbol of Kichizo Yoshida’s philosophy that “a bag should be a tool for carrying luggage,” while at the same time always offering proposals ahead of their time.
Tanker's unchanging appeal 3Not just style! It also serves a practical purpose.
The MA-1 flight jacket was the driving force behind the military fashion that spread after the blockbuster hit movie “Top Gun, The MA-1 issued to the Air Force does not appear in the movie. However, the MA-1, which had been issued to the Air Force for more than half a century and was a symbolic military outerwear, so to speak, gained tremendous support as a fashion item.
The Tanker is a bag that incorporates the characteristics of the MA-1. It is not the same specs as the MA-1, but it has the same bonded padding.
Padding is actually used in the helmet bags used by the U.S. military. However, the outer fabric is hard and rough, giving the impression of a practical product. On the other hand, the nylon twill used for tankers, inspired by the MA-1, is soft and lightweight. This might lead one to believe that it is less durable, but this is not true. First of all, the outer fabric has excellent durability as well as beautiful coloring. In addition, the padding is sewn in place after a temporary sewing process to prevent any misalignment when sewing the outer and inner fabrics. In other words, the sewing is double-layered, so it is safe even when heavy luggage is placed in it.
The unique world view of incorporating a military flight jacket into a bag can be established through such reliable techniques and time-consuming efforts.
Porter's Tanker remains the same but has changed!Three unusual charms of the Tanker
One of the reasons why the tanker continues to be supported is that it has been further brushed up to reflect the latest technology and modern sensibilities, while maintaining the essential appeal of the tanker. Here we will introduce three of the tanker’s unusual charms that have been renewed in the 40 years since its launch.
Tanker's unusual charms 1Initiatives for the future with plant-derived materials
The Tanker series reached a major turning point in 2023, the 40th anniversary of its birth. The nylon used was changed to 100% plant-derived nylon.
Nylon is generally made from petroleum. Until now, tankers have also used petroleum-derived nylon. However, with an eye on the future, the company has changed to 100% plant-derived nylon. Now that being sustainable has become a proposition for the fashion industry as well, tankers have begun to address this issue from the raw materials.
The 100% plant-derived nylon is N510, a bio-based nylon developed by Toray. The yarn is produced from plants called corn and castor. Toray had succeeded in producing it on a trial level after years of research, but had hit a major wall in terms of mass production. Toray and Yoshida Kaban then worked together to develop the material, and after much trial and error, succeeded in mass-producing 100% plant-derived nylon for the first time in the world, in order to satisfy various requirements such as durability, flexibility, and luster as a bag fabric. Yoshida Kaban’s commitment to domestic production, which has been maintained since the company’s establishment, is demonstrated here as well.
For Tanker, which will continue to be supported for many years to come, it is inevitable that the company will switch to sustainable materials.
Tanker's unusual charm 2A higher level of performance without compromising the world view
Tanker is inspired by the military, so it pays careful attention to practicality and durability in its detailing.
Some parts are original specs with the company logo and brand logo engraved, and the paint is applied in six coats to prevent peeling. The zips have raised tips to make them easier to pick up when wearing gloves in the winter or with nail polish. Furthermore, the inner pocket made of clear material, which was previously sewn onto the main body, can now be detached with a snap button for added convenience.
The functionality and specifications are constantly being updated with the user in mind, without destroying the world view of the tanker.
Tanker's unusual charm 3Standard colors are available in new materials
The sage green color was introduced at the beginning of 1983. A black color was added early in the fall/winter of the same year; a silver gray color was added in 2014 and an iron blue color in 2021. In 2013, before the launch of the silver gray color, the 30th anniversary of the tanker, various color patterns were proposed, including a chamois pattern as a limited edition color in the lineup.
The color lineup after the relaunch started with sage green in May 2024, followed by iron blue in August and black in November.
From holidays to work and travel, we have it all!6 Tankers that were and still are masterpieces
Here are six carefully selected masterpiece bags from the Tanker series.
Tanker is the star of the showHelmet Bag
As the name suggests, the motif of this bag is the helmet carrying bag provided to U.S. Air Force pilots. It is an iconic model in the Tanker series, which is inspired by the MA-1 flight jacket.
In addition to a gusset at the bottom that expands the space for a helmet, it also features a large pocket on the front. The tanker’s characteristic padding is also used in the actual helmet bag.
The leading figure in Tanker's popularity in the 90sRucksack
In addition to the top opening with drawcord, this rucksack has an access zip on the side for enhanced practicality. As with the helmet bag, a large front pocket is provided to enhance storage.
A clear pocket is used inside, but it can be removed from the new model that uses a new material. The bag is attractive because it is lightweight while being durable due to its solid sewing.
The catalyst for the popularity of tankers in the 1990sFanny Pack
The fanny pack was popular along with helmet bags and backpacks during the boom of the 1990s. The first generation was introduced in 1996, and the style of slinging it over the shoulder rather than around the waist became popular.
In addition to the front pocket, the gusset-adjustable straps on the side assert the toughness of the military-derived tanker. The small pocket with hook-and-loop tape at the base of the main strap shows the high level of functionality typical of Yoshida Kaban.
The spark that ignited the popularity of business bags3-way document bag
This is the bag that established the popularity of the tanker not only on the street but also as a business bag. Like the waist bag, the first generation of this bag was introduced in 1996.
It can be carried in three ways: as a brief, shoulder, or backpack. In addition, the main compartment, which opens wide with an L-shaped zip, has a 15-inch PC sleeve, and other highly convenient features can be seen throughout the bag.
A travel companion with plenty of capacityDrum Bag
This is perfect as a gym bag or for a short trip. With a capacity of 16 liters, it is slightly larger than a 14-liter backpack. The exterior has pockets with snap buttons on the side as well as the front.
The soft fabric and padding of the tanker require a high level of sewing skill. This is even more so when it comes to the drum shape. In addition to the main body, the tanker is also sewn to prevent the padding from shifting, thus making it safe even when heavy luggage is placed in it.
A supporting role that no longer plays the leading roleVertical bag
We must not forget the compact bag that has determined the popularity of the tanker series. This compact bag, which can hold a long wallet, has two front pockets as well as a pocket on the back with hook-and-loop tape, making it compact but with excellent storage capacity.
The efficient and abundant use of pockets is common to all Porter bags, and the fact that it is carried through to the compact size is a highlight. For the same reason, the vertical bag is also a popular item.