Italy continues to lead the world with new ideas in the “tailored jacket” category. Most of the tailored jackets worn by men in men’s fashion magazines and media snapshots are also from Italian brands. In this issue, we will introduce a whole range of jackets from the volume zone of around 100,000 yen to the ultra-premium brands priced in excess of 500,000 yen!
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Pick up the three popular Italian factory brands!
(1) LARDINI “The leading Italian factory brand
This brand was founded by Luigi Lardini in 1978 in Ancona, in the heart of Italy. It is a factory brand with a track record of more than 30 years of manufacturing world-famous big-name fashion brands’ clothes at its own factory. All items are manufactured in Italy by Italian craftsmen. It is also known that Nick Worcester was involved in the project. The flower-shaped boutonniere attached to the lapel is an iconic design. One of the reasons for the brand’s popularity is its flexibility in proposing products that are conscious of trends and market needs, such as the “Easy Wear” collection, which emphasizes functionality, and the “SARTORIA” collection, which adds a structural element by using a wool core.
(2) BOGLIOLI “Unique texture and softness are achieved by adding a “washing process” to jackets.
This extremely popular brand was founded in Italy in 1890. The brand’s concept is “classic and modern,” and it continues to offer jackets and suits that combine innovative technology and modern design while inheriting traditional sartorial tailoring. Their famous products such as “K Jacket,” “Dover,” and “Coat” are famous worldwide. In 2015, the brand name was changed to BOLIOLI MILANO. The soft tailoring that is Boglioli’s specialty, in which the wool core and even the adhesive core are eliminated as much as possible, is the focus of attention.
▶︎Search for BOGLIOLI jackets!
(3) TAGLIATORE “Focus on the cutting that makes men look glamorous.
The brand was started by Pino Lelario, the second generation of the Lelario company, which was founded in the 1960s. The brand name “TAGLIATORE” means “cutter” in Italian. It is not surprisingly known that the name originated from a nickname given to Mr. Pino’s grandfather, who was a craftsman who cut uppers for leather shoes. In fact, the brand itself is also particular about its cutting technology, realizing a three-dimensional, slim form. The waist, which is narrowed from a high waist position, and the shoulder line that emphasizes the front shoulder are typical TAGLIATORE pattern designs. Since this is the slimmest silhouette among the popular three families, it is especially recommended for slim men. Incidentally, Mr. Pino has also worked on costumes for Batman.
▶︎Search for TAGLIATORE jackets!
Italian jackets in the price range of around 100,000 yen!
De Petrillo “Mixing the essence of Naples with trends!
The brand “De Petrillo” originated from a factory established by Mr. Benedetto De Petrillo in Frattamaggiore, Naples in 2006. The brand is gaining popularity for its soft tailoring with a Neapolitan flavor and trend-conscious use of fabrics. The jackets use the softest possible interlining to create a structured silhouette while providing a soft, comfortable fit.
▶︎Look for De Petrillo jackets!
Z ZEGNA “Lifestyle line proposed by a brand that handles the world’s finest fabrics.
Z ZEGNA is the modern lifestyle line of Italian manufacturer ZEGNA, which produces the world’s finest fabrics. Its sophisticated, trend-conscious design is attractive. The price range is lower than that of ZEGNA’s main line, ZEGNA.
L.B.M.1911 “Attractive sports taste based on reliable tailoring!
The brand started in 2006 as a casual and sporty line based on Lubiam, which has the longest history among Italian factory brands. The brand has a modern design, yet the skills of a factory that has worked with famous brands’ clothing shines through.
▶︎Search for L.B.M.1911 jackets!
Cantarelli “Achieves a lightweight comfort and three-dimensionality that is difficult to achieve with tailor-made brands in the same price range.
The brand started in 1976 in Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy. Machine-made garments achieve a three-dimensional silhouette and comfort that naturally wraps around the body. In Japan, high-end select stores such as Barneys carry the brand, which has a reputation for lightness and three-dimensionality among other Italian brands offering jackets priced around 100,000 yen in the same price range. The brand is also noted for its playful use of color in the lining and piping.
▶︎Search for Cantarelli jackets!
CIRCOLO 1901 “Reputed for its tailor-made easy jackets.
This brand is developed by S.G.L., a textile company headquartered in Valletta, Italy. Geraldo D’Argenio, who has 20 years of experience at S.G.L., launched a sweatshirt jacket for fun, which attracted a lot of attention, and the brand is now in full swing. The brand’s bold approach of tailoring all items with sweatshirt fabrics shocked the apparel industry at the time. The brand is particularly famous for its Easy Jacket, which was developed as “a jacket that looks like a fleece and a fleece that looks like a jacket.
▶︎Search for CIRCOLO 1901 jackets!
ALTEA “Long-established family-run business for over 100 years” ▶︎Look for CIRCOLO 1901 jackets!
ALTEA is a brand that has been family owned and operated by the Sartori family for over 100 years without interruption. The brand has grown into a total fashion brand that also manufactures jackets and coats since around the end of the 20th century. Based on the concept of Italian sartorial products that go well with sneakers, the line offers stress-free comfort through a combination of lightweight construction and materials such as jersey and knitwear. Elastic materials are used not only for the outer fabric but also for the lining. The reasonable pricing is also attractive.
T-JK(T-Jacket) “Jackets as light as a T-shirt.
TONELLO, which specializes in heavy-duty clothing, has created a brand called “T JACKET. The collection is gaining popularity for its lightweight and comfortable feel as if you were wearing a T-shirt. Another feature is that the items are packaged in a tube-like package, which proves that no shoulder pads or other secondary materials are used. Sartoria’s innovative products, which can be enjoyed as casually as T-shirts, are attracting attention from all over the world.
TITO ALLEGRETTO “Neapolitan style proposed by the man who has built the image of a classic Italian brand.
TITO ALLEGRETTO” is a new brand that originated in Naples in 2012. The brand was started by Tito Allegretto, who has worked as a director and VMD for famous Italian brands, creating a sales floor environment that is loved by customers. Mr. Tito Allegretto is also known in the industry for his bold and wild behavior, such as washing his own jackets in a washing machine to give them a soft texture. The collection, which includes jackets that seem to reproduce his ideas, is soft and comfortable, typical of the Neapolitan style.
▶︎Search for TITO ALLEGRETTO jackets!
DOPPIAA “Elegant collection created by exquisite use of colors.
DOPPIAA” is an up-and-coming brand that started in 2016, but attracts worldwide attention as an Italian brand owned by the son of a world-famous tenor singer. The collection is characterized by its inclusion of trendy specifications while following the traditional Neapolitan tailoring style. The use of color is also very subtle, creating an atmosphere not found in other brands.
THE GIGI “An up-and-coming brand released by the Boglioli brothers.
This is an up-and-coming Italian brand that started in Fall-Winter 2014. The designer is Pierluigi Boglioli (nickname is Gigi), a former designer of Boglioli. Under the theme of ” DON’T LOOK BACK,” the brand offers a collection that is distinct from the long-established Boglioli brand. The collection is characterized by rounded, soft silhouettes and playful use of fabrics.
▶︎Search for THE GIGI jackets!
GABRIELE PASINI “A modern collection by a monster from Modena ” ▶︎GABRIELE PASINI
Gabriele Pasini” is a brand created by Gabriele Pasini, known as the “Monster of Modena. The brand continues to develop innovative collections by combining traditional Neapolitan sartorial techniques with Gabriele Pasini’s delicate sense of beauty and unique sensibility. The wide peaked lapels and the skull logo are the distinctive features of the collection. Each season’s collection is said to be inspired by the culture of a country Mr. Pagini has actually traveled to develop the designs.
▶︎Search for GABRIELE PASINI jackets!
GIORGIO ARMANI “Unconstructed jackets born from the idea that it is beautiful to show the lines of the body as they are.
GIORGIO ARMANI” is the line in which the designs of Mr. Armani, the king of the mode world, can be felt the most. Based on the idea that the silhouette of a tailored jacket that nestles close to the body is the most beautiful, designs that remove the materials and other decorations that build up the body are gaining popularity. The brand is also famous for its consistent collections that are mainly in dark tones.
▶︎Search for GIORGIO ARMANI jackets!
Caruso “Three-dimensional silhouettes constructed by hand-sawn and the latest machines ” ▶︎Find a GIORGIO ARMANI jacket!
This is the in-house brand of MACO, a factory started in Parma in 1958 by Mr. Raphael Caruso, who used to run a tailor in Naples. Currently, Mr. Nicola Caruso is the representative of the company. The company employs a three-dimensional cutting system that combines traditional handmade garments with the latest machine technology, and a production system that makes sense by adding handmade garments where necessary. Among Italian brands, their designs are characterized by a slightly British taste. The company is also famous as a factory that supplies high-end fabrics to Zegna, Loro Piana, and others. Even today, 16% of the company’s production is made-to-order, and the company’s persistence in manufacturing is what sets it apart from other brands.
Pick up Italian jacket brands that are rarely distributed in Japan!
Valditaro: “Soft comfort and a structured silhouette of full canvas.
Valditaro” is based in Parma, Italy. The brand’s lightweight, Italian-style fit and structured tailoring using full canvas give it an appeal that sets it apart from other brands.
Eidos: “A brand with excellent cost performance that is developed as the second line of Isaiah.
The brand offers cost-effective jackets by mixing Isaiah’s traditional techniques and know-how with cutting-edge technology. The brand name “Eidos” comes from the Greek word “Eidosis,” meaning “idea,” and it is regrettable that the brand has become difficult to find due to a price review four or five years ago and a decrease in the number of select stores that carry it.
PAOLONI “Exquisite mix of formal and informal styles.
Paoloni originated near Ancona, Italy. The brand is known for its regular participation in ” PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO. The brand is characterized by an elegant style that mixes formal and informal styles. Many of the brand’s jackets have a scissors design set into the boutonniere. The fabrics and designs, of course, are also noteworthy for their playfulness in subtle points, such as the use of patterns on the ball edges of the inside pockets for plain items.
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