What are the seven things that Alden’s “986” boasts that other coin loafers don’t? Page 3

Alden “986” particulars 3 ” “Truly superb technique! The finest moccasin stitching with hand skin stitching.

Along with the saddle, ” moccasin stitching ” is one of the identities of the loafer. The moccasins are more important than the saddles, as the quality of the moccasin stitching is more visible than the saddles. Moccasins vary in procedure and technique depending on the shoemaker. In recent years, many brands use machine-stitched moccasins, but Alden is unique in that its moccasins are “hand-stitched” by craftsmen. Alden’s moccasins are sewn by hand using a technique called “skin stitching,” which is extremely difficult to achieve.

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In skin stitching, the needle is inserted from the silver side (surface) of the leather, the needle tip is turned in the intermediate layer without penetrating the leather, and the needle is taken out from the silver side again to sew. Instead of sewing through the leather from the front surface to the back surface as in general moccasin stitching, the needle is scooped and stitched only on the front surface, making it possible to create a three-dimensional and expressive mocassin. The advantage of this method is that it is more robust than machine stitching because tension is applied with each stitch.

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In general, moccasin stitching is based on forming a single piece of leather from the bottom to the sides like a bag, then covering the top with a U-shaped piece of leather on the instep and sewing it together. Typical moccasin stitching methods include the “ogamimocha,” in which the two pieces of leather are attached exactly like the palms of the hands, and the “kabuse-mocha,” in which the leather covers the instep and is stitched together. In Alden’s 986, however, instead of sewing two pieces of leather together, a U-shaped stitch is drawn on a single piece of leather. In other words, a pinch stitch is applied to the leather of the plain toe. It is not difficult to imagine that this alone requires a high level of skill, but the upper material of the 986 is cordovan. Unlike soft calf leather, cordovan has dense fibers and the surface in contact with the subcutaneous tissue is the surface to be used, so the difficulty is even greater.

Only two craftsmen can apply skin stitching to cordovan, which is difficult to insert a needle into

Skin stitching, in which the needle is inserted from the hard silver side of the cordovan and passed through without being let out to the reverse side, is truly a superb technique. The moccasin stitching process is done while the shoe is being fished into the wooden form, and even the slightest error in the stitching needle can result in the silver side being cut, and the entire process up to that point, including the hanging process, will be lost. Only two craftsmen in the Alden factory can perform this skin stitching process, which takes about an hour per pair using two needles. The excellent technique of the selected craftsmen creates a wavy pattern that adds unparalleled beauty to the upper of the 986.

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Alden “986” Special Feature 4: “A dark burgundy color for a luxurious feel and ageing effect.

The 986 also features Alden’s signature color, dark burgundy. This color, called #8 (number eight), is relatively easy to obtain even among the rare Alden cordovans. The deep, dark burgundy color is easy to coordinate with other styles, and the luster of the cordovan is an attractive feature.

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The black coin loafer “987” is also attractive

The “987” model, which has the same design and specifications as the 986, is available in black. Black is a standard color for leather shoes, but in the case of cordovan, the contrast between light and black creates a splendid sense of luxury. It is also an interesting choice to choose black instead of the royal road burgundy.

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