The 180 SIGNATURE LOAFER by J.M. WESTON is a typical coin loafer. The pair produced with high-quality materials and one-of-a-kind craftsmanship is an eternal staple that has made many people groan. This time, we focus on the ” 180 Signature Loafer ” and introduce its charm!
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About J.M. Weston
J.M. Weston is a French shoe brand founded by Edouard Blanchard in 1891. The brand took a great leap forward when Eugène, the founder’s son, showed interest in American shoemaking and learned the Goodyear welt method at Weston near Boston, Massachusetts. 1922 saw the opening of the first Paris store on Boulevard Cloussel. In 1932, when the Nazi party won the German general election, he opened a store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. The boutique became a much-loved social gathering place for the famous Parisians of the time. J.M. Weston’s most popular U-tip derby shoes, “641 Golf” and “705 Side Gore Boots,” were developed during this period. The ” 180 Signature Loafer,” synonymous with the brand, was created after World War II.
J.M. Weston shoes are characterized by elegant design and high functionality. The Goodyear welt method, which does not use ribbed tape to glue the shoes together, is a unique feature of the brand. Another reason for the brand’s continued support is that the more you wear them, the more you get the best fit that wraps around your feet.
What is ” 180 Signature Loafer “, a Symbol of French Trad
The “180 Signature Loafer” is J.M. Weston’s iconic shoe, created in 1946 and taking the world by storm with its unique silhouette. In 1949, the first advertisement featuring the ” 180 Signature Loafer ” appeared in Adam’s magazine and was a huge hit.
The “180 Signature Loafer” quickly became extremely popular after its introduction, but by the 1960s, for better or worse, the “uncle’s shoe” image was taking hold. Around 1962, however, J.M. Weston experienced a turning point. The “Bande du Drugstore Gang,” as the young people who hung out at the drugstores on the Champs-Elysées were called, began wearing the “180 Signature Loafer” all the time. Wearing their father’s loafers barefoot with Levi’s 501s, these young men expressed their rebellion against existing social norms. Six years later, the loafer became a symbol of the student movement in France and a must-have item for students.
The “180 Signature Loafer” was the result of a trial-and-error process that took more than 200 prototypes. The “#41” last used is characterized by a comfortable and universal shape that follows the shape of the foot. Surprisingly, this last and manufacturing method are still used in the current model, more than 70 years after its birth. The “180 Signature Loafer,” worn by presidents, politicians, and even young resistance fighters, has become an icon of French traditionalism and is loved around the world.
Manufacturing environment of “180 Signature Loafer
The “180 Signature Loafer” is manufactured at the J.M. Weston factory in Limoges, a city in central France. It takes about two months to make one pair of loafers. It takes about two months to make one pair of loafers, and it takes 150 hands to cut the leather, sew the uppers, cut the soles, assemble, and glaze the loafers. Each skill is a crystal, and some, such as the calfskin lining, can be felt immediately by the owner, while others, such as the cotton sewing threads, are hidden in details that are completely invisible.
J.M. Weston’s know-how is the result of traditional techniques inherited from over 120 years of history. While preserving the excellent craftsmanship and universal design of the Limoges factory, the company is constantly pursuing new leathers and new details in manufacturing, and continues to evolve to make the wearer’s walk more comfortable.
Leather used for “180 Signature Loafer
J.M. Weston is famous for the quality of its materials. The upper leather is made from the prestigious French tannery ” Dupuis ” for its high quality. The more you look at the beauty of the fine-grained kip, the more you are impressed. Of course, its high quality is obvious even to a third party with a quick glance. The moist and shiny shine that can be achieved with just a light application of shoe cream proves that this is a high-class leather.
Characteristic and design of “180 Signature Loafer
Loafers are said to have originated from English indoor shoes and traditional Norwegian moccasin shoes. 1934 saw the birth of the first coin loafer in the United States. The name “coin loafer” or “penny loafer” is said to have originated when students inserted pennies (one-cent coins) into a cutout in the saddle strap. The “180 Signature Loafer,” so to speak, is a French interpretation of the coin loafer. The design is quite simple, with a half-saddle design, which is the royal design of coin loafers. The simplicity of the design, however, is what makes the beauty of the materials and the detailed modeling stand out, embodying the “ultimate basic” that has remained unchanged since its first appearance over 70 years ago and will probably still be beautiful 100 years from now.
The slightly short-nosed toe is decorated with a U-tip moccasin, the “face” of the “180 Signature Loafer. It has a French traditional appearance that is different from loafers made in the United States.
The heel cups are carefully sewn together. The weels are also very beautiful, and it can be seen how much attention has been paid to the smallest details.
Not only the uppers, but also the quality of the lining, which is normally only visible to the owner, is superb. The leather is moist and smooth to the touch, and you can enjoy the high quality of the leather from the inside of the shoe. The shoes are resistant to dampness and comfortable to wear, which is a great point not only in terms of appearance but also in terms of functionality.
J.M. Weston’s Goodyear Welt method
The “180 Signature Loafer” features a Goodyear welt sole. J.M. Weston’s Goodyear welt manufacturing method has been handed down traditionally since 1904, when Eugène, the founder’s son, learned the method while studying in the United States. The moderate volume of the buckle gives the “180 Signature Loafer” a little dignity. In addition, the “180 Signature Loafer” uses the groove cut method, in which the sole of the shoe is cut up in the shape of a sweet skin, and the groove is then used for the scoop stitching. This allows the leather to conform to the curves of the foot, creating a snug fit. J.M. Weston’s charm lies in the fact that it uses the groove cut method in the Goodyear welt method for ready-made shoes, not in the hand-sawn welt method for bespoke shoes.
Size variation of “180 Signature Loafer” with different widths
Unlike lacing shoes, which allow some size adjustment, loafers require more careful size selection. While most shoe manufacturers usually offer a 5mm range, J.M. Weston offers sizes in a 4mm pitch. In addition, J.M. Weston now offers six types of lasts (A/B/C/D/E/F), which used to be only available in tight-fitting sizes. Although the leather shoe industry is vast, J.M. Weston is probably the only shoe manufacturer that offers such a wide range of size variations. Many people have to choose a larger size because of the width of their feet in relation to the length of their feet, or they feel uncomfortable with the fit due to the narrow width. The “180 Signature Loafer” is a ready-made shoe, but it allows you to choose a pair that fits your feet as closely as possible.
Comfortable “leather socks
Leather shoes made by the Goodyear welt method are hard to begin with. As they are worn in, the leather becomes softer, the cork inside sinks in, and the sole warps. It takes about a month for the shoes to adjust to the wearer’s feet. The comfort of the shoes improves as the leather acclimates, a characteristic unique to leather shoes, but the quality of the “180 Signature Loafer” is different: the length and width, which are developed at a 4mm pitch, are multiplied by six different widths, allowing you to choose a pair that suits you. Once you get accustomed to it, the comfort of the ” 180 Signature Loafer ” is unparalleled.
The end result is a supremely comfortable fit that feels like it is one with your feet, so much so that the “180 Signature Loafer” is often referred to as a “leather sock. It is recommended to start with a short walk of about one hour to get used to it, and gradually extend the wearing time. Once you have tasted the fit, you will never want to leave J.M. Weston shoes, even if they are uncomfortable to wear at first.
The sole of the “180 Signature Loafer” is unique to other shoe brands
J.M. Weston is the only manufacturer that has its own tannery (vegetable tannery) for soles, and the tannery ” Bastin,” which became part of J.M. Weston in 1981, is a well-established leather factory founded in 1806. Here, the leather (before tanning) is turned into leather (after tanning) over a long period of time, not by seeking mechanical speed but by valuing rare craftsmanship. In fact, the in-house sole, which takes more than a year to make, gives the “180 Signature Loafer” unparalleled durability and a strong, supple comfort.
To use “180 Signature Loafer” for a long time
The “180 Signature Loafer” is recommended to use a wooden shoe keeper that matches the shape, length, and width of the shoe. The fitting is the main attraction of the 180 Signature Loafer, and the shape cannot be ruined by using the wrong size shoe keeper. Of course, a genuine J.M. Weston shoe keeper is ideal. This shoe tree is made of a natural material that absorbs moisture such as sweat, so it is a necessary item considering that the shoes will be used for many years. Since high quality leather is used, just polishing with ordinary shoe cream is enough to give them a natural and beautiful shine.
“180 Signature Loafer” of “MIDNIGHT EDITION by J.M. WESTON
From this season, “Midnight Edition by J.M. Weston (Midnight Edition),” which expresses the mysterious atmosphere of the night in two different materials, suede and calf leather, has been introduced. The “180 Signature Loafer” from “MIDNIGHTEDITION by J.M. WESTON” is now available. It is being developed along with the ” 641 Golf,” one of the most popular of J.M. Weston’s many lineups. It is available in two colors, navy and black. Those who want to experience the charm of the “180 Signature Loafer,” which is different from the standard model, should consider this model with its bi-material design.
Contact
Phone: 03-6805-1691( J J.M. Weston Aoyama Store)