Types of sole replacement for leather shoes [ based on use and style ].

Because we want to take good care of our leather shoes, we should be careful in selecting soles. It is smart to consider the sole according to the scene of use and frequency of use, rather than simply choosing a leather sole or a rubber sole. It is also a good idea to change the sole when replacing all soles, depending on the scene of use and your mood, as well as to choose the sole according to the purpose of use when purchasing ◎. In this issue, we introduce the types of leather shoe soles by usage and style!

Leather sole (casual – business – formal)

Advantages and Disadvantages of Leather Soles

Leather soles are the most popular type of dress shoes. Most of the authentic dress shoes priced at around 30,000 yen or more have leather soles. This traditional sole is far more luxurious and formal than rubber soles. Leather soles are what leather shoes should be. And the reason why leather soles have long been the standard for men’s shoes is not because tradition is respected. Leather soles are extremely breathable and heat resistant, so feet do not get stuffy even when worn for long periods of time.

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They are also highly elastic and adapt to the user’s feet as they are worn. In leather shoes that are supposed to be used for many years, cowhide is a logical material for soles.

On the other hand, its low water resistance must be mentioned as a disadvantage. Leather products such as leather shoes, including the uppers, are vulnerable to water, especially the sole, which is the surface that adheres to the road surface. When badly wet, the soles must be exposed to the air to dry, because if they are left as they are, mold can grow in the worst case.

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Furthermore, since there are no grooves (treads) like rubber soles, they are prone to slipping. The worst environment for shoes is wet floors, and many people do not dare to wear shoes with leather soles on rainy days.

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Leather soles make a pleasant, elegant sound on flat, hard floors such as marble, but they are not good on gravel surfaces. While there is no need to be too delicate, the frequency of use on rough or difficult terrain can hasten the time for all-sole replacement.

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As long as they are made of leather, they need to be moisturized and nourished through care. However, since leather shoes themselves require regular shoe care, applying a cream as an extension of that care is at least acceptable. If you want to take thorough care of leather soles, we recommend using mink oil or a special nourishing agent.

Specification of leather sole ” single sole

Most dress shoes have single-soled leather soles, which are outsole composed of a single piece of leather about 4.5 to 5 mm thick. It has excellent cushioning and adapts to the foot faster than other soles. It is the most suitable specification for formal occasions.

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Specification of leather sole ” double sole/triple sole

There are dress shoes with a double sole specification, in which a single midsole is laid on top of the outsole. It looks more massive, and is more durable and water-resistant than a single sole. However, because they are thicker, they have slightly less elasticity and are one step slower to adapt to the foot. Another disadvantage is the increased weight of the shoe itself and the tendency for the toes and heel to be more noticeable.

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There are also leather shoes with triple soles made of three pieces of leather. Because of their country origins, they are rarely used in formal dress shoes, but are often used in country shoes and boots as leather soles that can be used outdoors.

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Finishing of Leather Soles

The finish of the leather sole varies depending on the brand and the model of the shoe. Oak bark leather is tanned with tannin extracted from the bark of oak trees, and the tanning process takes up to a year. The leather fibers are packed, which not only gives the leather a luxurious appearance, but also improves its resistance to friction and flexibility.

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The finishing method often used for specifications such as Oakberg’s is the ” Hidden Channel ” method. The “open channel” finish, in which the threads of the stitching are visible from the outside, is the basic finish for ordinary leather soles, but the Hidden Channel finish uses a closed stitching method, which makes the threads invisible. This is a fashionable but time-consuming technique that is used for high-end models. There are also leather soles in high-end shoes that are finished in two different tones, called ” semi-colored leather soles. The formal color, black, is used at the waist to create a more elegant and beautiful appearance.

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Rubber sole (for business use)

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The rubber sole is the most widespread type of sole in the market today. They make up the majority of men’s shoes on the market and have established themselves as the most common soles. In fact, its practicality surpasses leather soles in many respects. They are impervious to water, non-slip, and can withstand rough and difficult terrain. It has functionality that compensates for everything that leather soles are not good at.

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However, rubber soles are not superior in everything. Poor breathability is the biggest drawback of rubber soles. In terms of foot comfort, while there is a certain degree of softness from the start, there is no gradual growth in fit as there is with leather soles. Also, the degree of formality is positioned below that of leather soles, making them unsuitable for weddings, funerals, and ceremonial occasions.

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Rubber soles vary from synthetic rubber soles to natural rubber soles, and from business soles to outdoor soles, depending on the situation. Basically, rubber soles are classified by tread pattern, or the carving of the grooves on the sole, and these types are introduced below.

Dyneite sole (for business and rainy days)

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When choosing a rubber sole for dress shoes, the first choice is the dynamite sole.
The official name of the sole is a studded sole, but the “Dainite” brand produced by the British company “Halboro Rubber Company” has become famous and is generally called a “Dainite sole. The unevenness on the bottom of the sole provides optimal grip when walking. The sole is not rugged and flat in appearance, making it ideal for men’s shoes. Many businessmen choose a dynamite sole for their leather shoes for rainy days.

Ridgeway sole (for slightly more casual wear)

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The Ridgeway sole, which means “a causeway,” also originated from the British Dynaite brand. While the dyneite sole is a “point,” this one supports the foot with a “line,” resulting in a slightly softer fit. Although the grip is stronger, the appearance is a bit more casual, making this sole suitable for dress down style and casual occasions.

Command sole ( for casual and outdoor use )

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The Command sole has a heavy appearance and extremely strong grip. This sole was originally developed as a sole for mountaineering boots, and as the name suggests, it boasts such mobility that it is also used in military shoes. It can walk on difficult terrain such as mountain paths and rocky terrain, and is often used in boots. By incorporating this sole into dress shoes, it is possible to add a rugged taste and make it easy to match with casual coordinates.

Vibram sole ( for casual and outdoor use )

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Vibram soles are manufactured by the Italian company ” Vibram. Vibram produces soles in a wide range of patterns, but the strong sole of the Command sole is particularly impressive. In many cases, the soles used in Red Wing and Tricker’s boots are customarily called “Vibram soles,” and they are an excellent match for work boots and country boots.

Composite sole ( for business )

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This sole is also called a combination sole, combining the advantages of a leather sole and a rubber sole. The leather sole is used for the waist area around the foot, and the rubber sole is used for the toe and calf area, providing both a high degree of practicality and a dressy feel. Although highly versatile, the sole is difficult and costly to manufacture, and only a few brands produce it. Japanese brands such as REGAL and Scotch Grain, and Spanish brand Janco have adopted these shoes.