
The A-line silhouette—created by pairing a cropped outerwear piece with wide-leg pants—has become a familiar sight on the streets. Of course, its popularity hasn’t waned.However, if you look at street snaps from Pitti and Milan, as well as the Fall/Winter 2026 runways, you’ll see that a different balance—one that doesn’t emphasize the volume difference between the top and bottom—is gaining prominence.
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What Options Lie Beyond the A-Line for Fall/Winter 2026?Now That Short-Length Outerwear and Wide-Leg Pants Have Fully Penetrated the Mass Market, the Overall Silhouette Is Moving into the NEXT Phase
Thanks to the oversized trend of recent years, relaxed silhouettes have become mainstream in men’s fashion.This trend hasn’t been limited to tops and outerwear—it has also spread to pants.As wide-leg pants became widely popular, the “A-line” look—which pairs them with cropped tops or outerwear to make the most of their volume—gained attention. By creating a contrast in volume between the top and bottom, this style accentuates the lower body’s volume and has taken the streets by storm, particularly among the younger generation.However, now that wide-leg pants have become the norm, the ways to bring out their appeal are no longer limited to pairing them with cropped outerwear. In fact, at Pitti Uomo 109, held in January 2026, outfits combining long coats with loose-fitting slacks stood out. The OTOKOMAE editorial team’s on-site report also noted that this trend, which had been ongoing since the previous year, became even more pronounced. Layering a long outerwear piece over pants with ample fabric all the way to the hem creates a silhouette that flows vertically—a refreshing departure from the typical contrast between top and bottom.
What is the other trend visible on the runway?Relaxed 1980s tailoring offers clues for today’s silhouettes
One trend that cannot be overlooked when interpreting these changes is the reappraisal of relaxed 1980s tailoring.At the time, GIORGIO ARMANI popularized a style that differed from traditional suits—which featured rigid construction around the shoulders and chest—by emphasizing soft tailoring and rich draping.In the 1980 film *American Gigolo*, lead actor Richard Gere caused a sensation by wearing the costumes designed by Armani.
SOSHIOTSUKI is currently garnering attention as a brand that offers a modern interpretation of Armani’s 1980s aesthetic. Its Fall/Winter 2026 collection features voluminous jackets with large lapels and trousers with deep draping.While incorporating elements reminiscent of 1980s Japanese businessmen and Armani, the brand presented its own unique take on tailoring. However, this does not mean we would recommend SOSHIOTSUKI’s boldly exaggerated proportions as everyday wear.
What’s worth noting here is the reevaluation of tailoring that doesn’t constrict the body and the rich volume created by the fabric.On Zegna’s runway for the same season, an outfit featuring a checkered double-breasted jacket paired with voluminous trousers also made an appearance. While it isn’t a direct recreation of 1980s style, it expresses contemporary proportions by adding roominess to classic tailoring.
New Full-Body Proportions as Demonstrated by Giorgio Armani and LemaireThe 'Loose I-Line' Emerging at the Intersection of Two Trends
The re-evaluation of relaxed tailoring, rooted in the 1980s, alongside casual fashion where wide-leg pants have become a staple of everyday life.At first glance, these may seem like separate trends, but what they have in common is a focus on how to make the relaxed fit of clothing look attractive. That’s why, for Fall/Winter 2026, we’d like to propose the “Loose I-Line” as a new option.Unlike the A-line, which emphasizes the difference in volume between the top and bottom, this style incorporates moderate ease into both outerwear and pants to create a vertical silhouette from the shoulders to the feet. A great reference is Giorgio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection. Furthermore, at Lemaire, the proportions that connect the entire body vertically were particularly striking.Both represent a different approach from the tight I-line that was once in vogue. The key is to refine the silhouette of the entire body while maintaining some ease in the garments. By combining the voluminous feel of wide-leg pants—a staple of the A-line—with the concept of relaxed tailoring, new possibilities for styling emerge.
What Should You Wear and How Should You Style It to Create a Loose, Vertical Silhouette?Fall and Winter, When You Wear Outerwear, Is the Perfect Time to Embrace the Loose I-Line
If you want to try the loose I-line look, fall and winter—when outerwear takes center stage—are the perfect times.During seasons when you wear just a T-shirt or a single shirt, the difference in volume between the top and bottom is easily created by the hemline of the top and the width of the pants. However, in fall and winter, outerwear allows you to create a new outline around the upper body, making it easier to adjust your overall silhouette.For example, a jacket with a length that falls just over the hips and a moderate width makes it easy to smooth the transition from the upper to the lower body. Designs with a straight cut and a hem that isn’t excessively tapered work particularly well. Choosing a long coat can further emphasize a vertically elongated silhouette.
As for bottoms, I want to actively incorporate not only wide-leg pants but also semi-wide straight-leg pants that offer room around the waist and thighs while falling straight from the knee to the hem.As mentioned in our article examining pant silhouettes for Fall/Winter 2026, rather than exaggerating the width of the pants, we should now focus on creating a beautiful, clean line from the waist to the hem while maintaining a comfortable fit. Applying this concept to the entire outfit is the essence of the “relaxed I-line” look we’re featuring here.When adjusting the hem length, be sure to do so while wearing shoes to avoid creating excess fabric bunching. Furthermore, coordinating your outerwear and pants in similar shades minimizes color breaks and enhances vertical continuity. However, even when aiming for a relaxed fit, you should avoid simply sizing up your clothes.If you typically wear a size M, the basic rule is to start with the brand’s equivalent of a size M and choose garments designed with a relaxed silhouette from the outset. Check the size variations between brands and models to determine the correct size that will allow the garment’s intended silhouette to show through properly.The key is not to wear clothes that are unnecessarily large, but to create the ideal balance by combining the length, width, and leg opening of the garment.
Enjoy a Full Silhouette with the Right SizeIf You Want to Achieve a Relaxed I-Line Silhouette, Check Out These 5 Outerwear Pieces
When creating a relaxed I-line silhouette, it’s not just the length of the outerwear that matters. You’ll want to consider the ease in the body width, the shape of the shoulders, how the hem falls, and even the drape of the fabric.Here, we’ll introduce five outerwear pieces, focusing primarily on styles originally designed with a relaxed silhouette.
Outerwear Option 1 for a Relaxed I-Line: ‘The Charm of a Boxy Silhouette in Heavy Wool’LEMAIRE ‘UTILITY JACKET IN DUFFLE WOOL’
Lemaire’s “UTILITY JACKET IN DUFFLE WOOL” is a utility jacket crafted from thick, high-density wool fabric. While featuring workwear-inspired pockets and a shirt collar, it is finished with a minimalist design that minimizes ornamentation. Its defining features are the fabric’s moderate stiffness and a boxy silhouette that ensures plenty of room.The design—with a chest circumference of 124.8 cm and a total length of 76.6 cm in size 48—is well-suited to this season’s theme. The length, which falls just below the hips, creates a natural transition with the pants; pairing it with semi-wide-straight wool slacks creates a voluminous yet refined I-line silhouette.Pairing the black jacket with charcoal gray pants to create depth through a subtle interplay of shades also looks promising.
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”Two Ways to Wear a Relaxed I-Line: ‘Making the Most of Soft Cashmere’s Volume’”GIORGIO ARMANI ‘Stand Collar Double Cashmere Shirt Jacket’”
Giorgio Armani’s “Stand Collar Double Cashmere Shirt Jacket” is crafted from high-quality double cashmere fabric. Featuring a buttoned stand collar, a patch pocket on the chest, and side pockets, it combines the light, airy feel of a shirt jacket with the substantial presence of a coat.Of particular note is the relaxed silhouette, which the brand officially describes as “oversized.” Thanks to the soft texture unique to cashmere, the generous width doesn’t appear overly exaggerated, resulting in a refined, understated look. Pairing it with semi-wide straight-leg slacks in gray or black allows you to highlight the volume of the upper body while creating a clean, vertical line.This jacket is a strong contender for enjoying the appeal of clothing that doesn’t constrict the body—a style reminiscent of 1980s Armani—in a contemporary way.
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3 Ways to Wear a Relaxed I-Line Silhouette: ‘The Loose Body and Paneled Design Offer a Fresh Look’Dries Van Noten ‘Overdyed Cotton Jacket’
From Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection, we’ve selected this overdyed cotton jacket.Crafted from a sturdy, double-woven fabric, it features a funnel neck, storm flaps on the placket, and striking contrast panels. As the brand officially describes it as a “loose fit,” the body offers ample room, making it easy to pair with wider-leg pants.Unlike tailored jackets or wool coats, this piece offers a casual take on the I-line silhouette. By making the most of the dark gray body and pairing it with black semi-wide straight-leg pants, you can highlight the jacket’s design while creating a vertical line throughout the outfit. Choose simple leather shoes to tie the entire look together.
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”4 Ways to Style a Loose I-Line Silhouette: ‘Emphasize Vertical Lines with a Long Length That Reaches Below the Knee’”Maison Margiela ‘Double-Breasted Wool Coat’”
Maison Margiela’s “Double-Breasted Wool Coat” is a reinterpretation of the classic Chesterfield coat with a unique sensibility. The fabric, reminiscent of herringbone, is paired with striking peak lapels and sculpted shoulder lines to create a design with a sense of substance.Of particular note is the balance between the long length—which extends below the knee—and the body’s moderate ease. The measurement of 128.9 cm listed on the official website clearly illustrates this elongated silhouette.Pairing it with charcoal gray semi-wide straight-leg slacks creates a cohesive, vertical flow of volume from the coat to the feet, resulting in a sophisticated ensemble. While the slightly structured shoulder area means it doesn’t exactly replicate the soft tailoring of the ’80s, it’s an excellent choice for enjoying a rich silhouette with a modern twist.














































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