Men's Fashion Trends from the Latest Pitti Womo Vol.1

Pitti Immagine Uomo 104″ was held from June 13 to 16, 2023. Due to the heavy rain, the number of visitors was somewhat lower than last time, which was the first time in a long time that the show was crowded after the Corona disaster, but the festive mood was still alive and well. The OTOKOMAE editorial staff went to the show again this year to report on our impressions of the show in two parts!

Although the leading suit brands continued to hold off on exhibiting at Pitti 104, there were signs of a return to the dressier side of the show.

As we reported in our January 2023 flash report, casual and outdoor fashion has been gaining momentum at Pitti recently, but looking at the visitors this time, we got the impression that men dressed in suits and tailored jackets have returned somewhat. However, tailor-affiliated brands such as Lardini, Tagliatore, and Boglioli, which used to be regulars at Pitti, did not exhibit again this year, so the old mood of “Pitti as a place where dress experts gather” has not returned.

Mr. Tatsuya Nakamura, Executive Creative Director of BEAMS, shared the same view, saying, “It may be because it is spring/summer, but there were fewer men in dresses as in the previous show. And perhaps it is because the key figures with power in the dress industry are not participating, but I feel that the number of people who can wear suits and jackets in a cool way has decreased considerably. I am looking forward to the next edition of Pitti 103, where many men showed interesting ways of dressing.” He stated.

As Mr. Nakamura said, there were not many men in suits or jackets at Pitti this time, but the OTOKOMAE editorial staff noticed a few men in orthodox suit styles. It seemed that more men were wearing basic suits in navy and gray than last time (of course, the number of men wearing such suits was still much smaller than before the Corona disaster), and the coordination of men’s outfits was more serious and did not incorporate any outfits. Whether the dress brands that have been the mainstay of Pitti in the past will return in the future is not promising, but whether a new dress power will emerge or whether the trend will continue to swing toward casual wear is a question to be answered. We will keep an eye on the next Pitti.

What men’s trends did Pitti visitors show us with their realistic outfits?

New trends that stood out at Pitti 104: “Green and blue continue to stand out in terms of color, but there is a slight change in brightness.

Green and blue continued to be popular as men’s trend colors, but there are signs of a change in color tone. While the olive-toned, rugged tone of green has long reigned as the trend color, more men than ever were seen dressed in pale mint, pistachio, and other bright greens.

Pale and bright colors were not limited to green, but were also derived from blue, which has also been popular as a trend color for the past few years, and bright colors such as cobalt blue were conspicuous. The modern coloring, enhanced with black, is definitely something to imitate this summer.

New trend that stood out at Pitti 104: “‘Transparent layering’ is the mood! Knit tops are popular in casual style, as they allow people to enjoy layering even in summer.

While cut-and-sewn and shirt-type tops are usually the norm at Pitti in summer, many men were seen wearing knit tops this season. Knit T-shirts, knit polos, and light cardigans. There were also men who enjoyed “daring to show their innerwear” by wearing knitwear with open holes or transparent knitwear, which creates a cool mood. At the last Pitti 103, the use of expressive layering rather than simple layering stood out, and it seems that layering is still popular even in summer, when there are fewer items to wear.

New trend that stood out at Pitti 104: “As for leather shoes, decorative loafers such as tassel loafers and bit loafers are popular.

Loafers have always been the most popular leather shoes worn by the summer Pitti contestants, but this time, decorative designs such as tassel loafers and bit loafers caught our attention. This may be the same as the layering trend mentioned in the previous section, but it may be that the trend is not to focus solely on simplicity, but to add a decorative touch somewhere. Speaking of shoes, of course, there were many people wearing sneakers this time as well, indicating a change in the trend, which will be introduced in detail in the second article. Incidentally, Gucci’s horsebit loafer, the original bit loafer, will celebrate its 70th anniversary in 2023, and a commemorative exhibition event was held at Milan Fashion Week after Pitti. We will introduce them again in our Milan report to be uploaded at a later date.

New trend that stood out at Pitti 104: “Is the wide pants trend coming to an end? Signs of a clean, tapered silhouette even on the thicker side are showing signs of coming to an end.

The oversized trend has continued for a long time, and wide pants have been the mainstream for bottoms for a long time, but this trend has changed somewhat here. The overall silhouette seems to have settled on a smart balance, with wide gusset widths but tapered hems, and straight silhouettes that are neither too thick nor too thin. As a side note, it is said that Italian men have never been familiar with wide pants, and they are a bit relieved that the wide silhouette trend has settled down. Even though silhouettes are beginning to change, it is unlikely that skinny pants and other slim pants will suddenly emerge as a trend, so it is worth keeping an eye on the trend gradually.

Fendi was the special guest at Pittiwomo 104! For the first time in a long time, a big name is participating in the show.

As is customary at Pitti, a special guest is invited to the fashion show during the Pitti period. This time, Fendi was invited, and for the first time in a long time, a big name brand held a show in Florence. The runway was pulled into the Fendi factory, located slightly away from the Pitti site, where craftsmen were working, and the show was held. The collection was presented with items such as aprons and overalls that matched the atmosphere of the factory.

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Guest designer is up-and-coming ERL

The guest designer is ” ERL “, a brand by Eli Russell Linetz from the United States. At Pitti Womo 104, he presented a collection inspired by the juvenile delinquents of his native California. This show, his first as a solo designer, was created with Florence in 2176 in mind. Items decorated with silver parts and sequins created a futuristic worldview and colored the night of Florence in the year 2023.

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