Even the jackets we casually throw on every day often trace their origins back to the workwear of working men. In particular, the clothing worn by men who work at sea has evolved in unique ways to protect the body from strong winds, spray, and bitter cold. The details born out of the pursuit of practicality have, over time, come to hold their own appeal as fashion.In this article, we’ll introduce three jackets that trace their roots to such maritime workwear but have been reimagined with modern materials and silhouettes.
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From a Submarine Captain’s Custom-Made Garment to a Sophisticated Wax JacketBarbour ‘Ursula Wax Jacket’
In the late 1930s, George Phillips, who commanded the British Navy submarine “HMS Ursula,” was dissatisfied with the performance of the protective gear issued at the time. That’s when he set his sights on a Barbour motorcycle suit worn by one of his subordinates.The “Ursula Suit” began when he commissioned the brand to modify the one-piece protective suit made of waxed cotton into a separate jacket and pants. Created to protect the crew from harsh weather at sea, this garment was later adopted by the Royal Navy’s submarine fleet.
Barbour’s “Ursula Wax Jacket,” released for the Fall/Winter 2026 season, is a modern reinterpretation of this historic archive piece. By omitting some of the pockets and elbow patches found on the original, it retains a rugged feel while achieving a clean, streamlined look.Practical details remain intact, such as the waxed cotton that protects the body from rain and wind, a large detachable hood, and a waist belt. The silhouette has been refined to a standard fit, resulting in a piece that, while rugged military wear, also pairs well with slacks for a sophisticated look.
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Fusing the aesthetics of a leather brand with U.S. Navy cold-weather gearSchott ‘HERRINGBONE N-1 JKT’
The U.S. Navy’s “N-1 Deck Jacket” debuted in 1943.Its purpose was to protect ship crew members exposed to cold sea winds.It combined thick cotton fabric with a lining of alpaca and wool—materials known for their excellent thermal insulation—and featured a plush fabric on the collar. The front featured a double-layered construction with both a zipper and a button placket, and the ribbed cuffs were tucked inward to prevent snagging during work.This design, which prioritized warmth and functionality over visual embellishment, gave the N-1 its distinctive, rugged look.
The “HERRINGBONE N-1 JKT” is Shot’s unique take on the N-1, created by this renowned leather jacket brand.The most significant change is the replacement of the collar—which originally used an alpaca-blend pile fabric—with cowhide leather. Furthermore, the outer fabric features a cotton herringbone weave characterized by its three-dimensional pattern, resulting in a design where the contrast between the different materials stands out.It also retains structural elements that honor the original’s functionality, such as a buttoned placket, slash pockets, and a lining that includes wool and alpaca. This piece retains the atmosphere of a substantial winter coat while bringing out a bold, rugged look through the presence of the leather.
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Transforming a British Navy deck jacket into a lightweight, functional outerwear pieceDAIWA × green label relaxing “PERTEX UNLIMITED Jacket”
For naval crew members, the deck was a workplace constantly exposed to sea winds and spray.Deck jackets worn in such environments have long incorporated the functional requirements of the field, such as a structure that blocks wind, ease of movement, and storage for carrying tools. This custom-made jacket for the Fall/Winter 2026 season, created by DAIWA and green label relaxing, reinterprets that practical design using modern functional materials.
The design draws inspiration from the British Navy’s deck jacket. While retaining details derived from military wear—such as the front closure combining a zipper and buttons and the flap pockets around the waist—the jacket features a minimalist appearance with understated embellishments.Of particular note is the use of “PERTEX UNLIMITED,” a functional fabric with a natural, cotton-like texture. Made from nylon taslan yarn, it combines lightness with water repellency, resulting in a comfortable, lightweight feel—weighing approximately 540g in size L.In addition to being able to adjust the silhouette with the drawcord at the hem, its machine-washable, low-maintenance nature is another appealing feature. The design of this practical garment—originally created for maritime activities—has evolved into a lightweight outerwear piece that flexibly adapts to everyday weather and styling.
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