Allen Edmonds” is a long-established American shoe manufacturer that uses the Goodyear welt method, which does not use nails or steel shanks, to create shoes that feel good on the foot. Among them, three standard models including Park Avenue, a straight-tip shoe with an inside sole, McAllister, a wingtip shoe with an inside sole, and Kenwood, a penny loafer, are popular among the public. This time, we focus on the Allen Edmonds penny loafer, the Kenwood, and thoroughly introduce its charms!
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Allen Edmonds, a long-established shoe manufacturer that has been used by past U.S. presidents ” Allen Edmonds
When you hear the word “American shoes” in Japan, shoe lovers may imagine Alden or G.H. Bass. However, there are many fashionable people in the U.S. who also mention Allen Edmonds in addition to those shoes. Allen Edmonds, whose signature model, Park Avenue, is also known as the “President’s Shoe,” was responsible for making military shoes for the U.S. Army during World War II. It is a long-established shoe manufacturer that is well known in the U.S. as a symbolic shoe brand worn by successive presidents during their inaugurations because of its achievements in continuing to produce quality military shoes and providing comfort in their fit even during wartime.
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Allen Edmonds, a shoemaker that has stuck to the “Made in the USA” manufacturing method unchanged since the company’s founding
From its founding in 1922 to the present, Allen Edmonds has used the “Full Goodyear Welted” manufacturing method, which involves scoop stitching all the way down to the heel, eliminating the use of nails during the fishing process. The “shank,” which is the backbone of the shoe, is not made of steel, which is generally distributed, but of a highly flexible plastic shank, which is as flexible and comfortable as a worn-in shoe from the first time it is worn in. The shoes are made using the normal Goodyear-welted manufacturing method. One of the disadvantages of ordinary Goodyear-welted leather shoes is that they are hard on the feet at the beginning and it takes a little time for the feet to get used to them. However, Allen Edmonds’ comfortable shoes, which use the full Goodyear-welted method and plastic shank, are highly trusted in their home country as “shoes that are comfortable even when worn straight home from the shoemaker.
What are the five charms of “Kenwood,” Allen Edmonds’ famous penny loafer that follows American style?
Penny loafers are an essential item for American traditional and American casual style due to their history. It is said that the roots of the loafer design originally came from the “moccasin,” a slip-on shoe with a U-tip design made of a single piece of leather that was worn by Native Americans. Although there are various theories as to the origin of the modern design, the penny loafer design with a saddle, which is similar to the modern form, has been in circulation since 1920. The Allen Edmonds “Kenwood” penny loafer is a masterpiece with such a classic American look. Here are five things to love about the Allen Edmonds Kenwood!
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Attraction of Allen Edmonds “Kenwood” (1) “Classic look with beef roll
Even though the term “penny loafer” is used in one word, its types are finely classified according to detailed stitching and design. Allen Edmonds’ Kenwood is a type of “beef roll loafer,” a design that is considered a classic. The “beef roll” is a design in which the saddle portion of the penny loafer is hand-stitched around a moccasin-stitched vamp (instep) and then wrapped around a large piece of the vamp by hand. Although it is only a small detail of the entire shoe, it has an outstanding presence, and there are even enthusiasts who choose loafers with this design in mind.
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Appeal of Allen Edmonds “Kenwood” (2) “Kickback design worthy of the name of loafer (lazy person)
The Allen Edmonds Kenwood has a hand-stitched seam called a ” kickback ” across the heel. Many shoe designs incorporate gimmicks that are not only fashionable but also practical, and the kickback is no exception. Loafer is an English word meaning “lazy,” and it is well known that they are called loafers because they are easy to put on and take off, and although there are various theories, it is believed that the kickback is a detail that allows the heel to be stepped on and off by the heel. In other words, it is a feature to improve ease of putting on and taking off. It is a gimmick that can cause scratches on the leather and make shoe lovers look pale. Although there are not many users who actually step on the heel to put on and take off their shoes, it is a delightful design with an extra gimmick, in a good sense of the word “loafer” (lazy person).
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Allen Edmonds “Kenwood” Appeal (3) “Kenwood’s iconic, unique and gorgeous pinking
Even on the sidelines, you can tell it’s the Allen Edmonds Kenwood! The unique pinking (jagged teeth) ornament is such an iconic design element that even a casual observer can tell it is an Allen Edmonds Kenwood! Of course, there are many advantages to using a straight pattern in production, such as lower cost for cutting dies, less uneven gluing, and easier sewing because the straight line serves as a guide during sewing. However, the intricate pinking on the tongue and piping areas creates a playful design that seems to capture the founder’s desire to “create the most luxurious and comfortable shoes in the world.”
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Allen Edmonds “Kenwood” Appeal (4) “Mackay manufacturing method that goes well with loafers
The major difference between these shoes and Allen Edmonds’ other three major models, the straight, inner-feathered “Park Avenue” and the wingtip “McAllister,” is not limited to design, but also in their manufacturing methods. Park Avenue and McAllister are made with the full Goodyear-welted method, while Kenwood uses the Mackay method. Loafers do not have laces that fasten around the instep, making size adjustment difficult. The Goodyear-welted method is characterized by the fact that the cork between the inner sole and the main sole sinks into the shoe as it is worn, and the cork fits the foot. However, because “sinking in” is a prerequisite, the Goodyear-welted method has the disadvantage of becoming loose as the shoes are worn, especially in the case of slip-on type leather shoes that are not tightened at the instep. For this reason, Allen Edmonds uses the Mackay method for many of its loafers.
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The Mackay method does not use as much cork as the Goodyear-welted method, and since the inside sole and the main sole are directly sewn together, sinking rarely occurs. Therefore, the shoes can be worn almost the same size as when they were purchased. However, since the leather of the upper and the leather inner soles will become accustomed to the footwear, you may feel as if you are going up a size, albeit by less than half a size. In addition, since there is no cork or scoop stitching, the soles are not stiff and have a good warp, so that even without a hold on the top of the foot, the shoes will feel as if they are being sucked onto the foot.
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Allen Edmonds “Kenwood” Appeal #5: “Classic colors
As this is a standard model, Kenwood often offers it in new colors and different materials each season. The main materials used are glossy glass leather and richly pigmented German leather. The basic color range is black, burgundy, and tan (light brown).
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The most popular color is the classic black! Versatile enough to fit in with any style.
The basic black is a royal color that blends well with casual as well as dress styles. Of course, it is the most popular color among the Allen Edmonds Kenwood colors, and its versatility makes it a highly popular model among users.
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Atmospheric burgundy is another classic color. The gradated depth of the look is very appealing.
Burgundy, with its gradation of shades and somewhat transparent look, is an essential color item for American traditional style, and is also popular as a student shoe. Its natural gradation with a vintage shoe-like atmosphere is loved by people of all ages.
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For a deeper appreciation of leather, we recommend the craftsmanship-inspired tan.
The mocca stitching on the vamp and white stitching on the beef roll are distinctive, and the crafted tan is a color that goes well with American casual and denim styles. The light brown color, which brings out the natural color of the leather, can enjoy aging with repeated care.
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Choose the right size for a perfect fit.
Size is measured in US inches. In its home country of the United States, Allen Edmonds is known for its wide range of sizes, from 6 to 13 inches and from 2A to 3E (foot width), but in Japan, the company basically distributes sizes 6 1/2 to 8 and E, the average size for Japanese people. As mentioned above, even Kenwood, which is made by the Mackay method, which does not allow the cork to sink in as much as the Goodyear-welted method, allows the leather of the upper to blend in and the leather of the inside sole to sink in slightly to the extent that the footprint is attached, so you can either choose a tight fit that gives a slight feeling of pressure, or a just right fit, taking that size increase into account. It is best to choose a size that fits you just right, or a size that fits you just right. If you cannot find the right size in Japan, you can always find a size that fits you by trying on and purchasing in the U.S. or importing directly from the U.S. If you are looking for a pair of penny loafers with an emphasis on comfort, we highly recommend this item.