Are you buttoning your tailored jacket correctly? Here’s what you need to pay attention to!

The wrong way to button up a jacket can be seen on the train or on the street. The buttoning method differs depending on the design, so it may seem a bit confusing, but once you learn it, you can enjoy wearing a smart jacket.

The correct way to button up a jacket. The “lapel return position” is what you need to pay attention to!

The most notable feature of both single and double jackets is the position of the lapel. The position of the lapel turn is the point where the body of the jacket begins to turn back as a lapel. Tailored jackets are often tailored with the assumption that the buttons will be fastened near the lapel return position, so simply being aware of this can reduce the possibility of failure. Conversely, most tailored jackets are fine as long as the buttons are fastened at the lapel return position.

GENTLEMAN PROJECTS

Fastening the top button may be a mistake!

For example, the “stepped three-button lapel” design is common in Italian brand jackets such as the one worn in the image below. The first button from the top is treated as a decoration, and the lapel is designed to return to the second button. Be careful not to fasten the buttons from the top as if you were wearing a shirt, as it may ruin the silhouette of the tailored jacket.

Daring to break it up is a technique that only a fashionable person can achieve!

At Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy, it is rare to see a fashionable person who dares to change the button position of a tailored jacket. For example, a Neapolitan technique of adding an accent to a tailored jacket by fastening only one button lower than the original lapel position and giving the tailored jacket an unnatural drape. This technique was born in Naples, Italy, where people wear jackets as if they were breathing in, in order to distinguish themselves from others.