When it comes to American leather shoe brands, many leather shoe freaks cite ” Alden” and “Allen Edmonds. Although Alden may have a higher name recognition in Japan, Allen Edmonds is more popular in the U.S. than Alden in terms of popularity and company scale, and is loved by a wide range of men from businessmen to celebrities, including past presidents of the United States. Leather shoes made in pursuit of rationality and comfort, which is typical of American brands, have a charm not found in British or Italian shoes, and Allen Edmonds is a perfect example of this. In this issue, we focus on Allen Edmonds and introduce its unknown charms and recommended models!
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What is Allen Edmonds?
Allen Edmonds was founded in 1922. Allen Edmonds, founded in 1922, is a leather shoe brand that sticks to “Made in America” and is so popular in the U.S. that there is no one who does not know about it. The brand offers a wide range of products loved by leather shoe lovers not only in the U.S. but around the world, from dress shoes such as its signature “Park Avenue” to the “Kenwood” series of loafers, which are American royalty.
Allen Edmonds is the leather shoe that presidents love
Since its establishment in 1922 in Wisconsin, U.S.A., Allen Edmonds has quickly gained a reputation for its excellent comfort. During World War II, the company played a role in providing military shoes for American soldiers due to their practicality.
After the war ended, many presidents came to love Allen Edmonds as the leather shoes that helped the United States win the war. Ronald Reagan, John F. Kennedy, George Bush, Bill Clinton…. As if it had become a tradition, it became customary to wear Allen Edmonds leather shoes during presidential inaugural speeches and first ascents to the White House.
In 2009, a tribute was paid to Mr. Obama under the double name of Trading Post and Allen Edmonds. In 2009, Trading Post and Allen Edmonds even developed a tribute model to pay homage to Mr. Obama.
In addition to the president, many American celebrities, including actors such as George Clooney, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Michael Douglas, have become Allen Edmonds’ favorite customers.
Allen Edmonds’ Leather Shoe Making Sticking to Purely American Made
The Goodyear welt and Mackay methods, which are the most mainstream in leather shoe manufacturing today, were developed in the United States. Although the improvement in productivity due to mechanization has contributed greatly to today’s leather shoe manufacturing, the current centers of leather shoe production are in England and Italy. Most of the countless U.S. leather shoe brands that laid the foundation for leather shoe production have moved their production bases overseas, and there are only two manufacturers that still maintain a “Made in America” policy: Alden and Allen & Edwards. They are Alden and Allen Edmonds. Incidentally, Allen Edmonds is more popular in the U.S. than Alden in terms of shoe production volume and popularity.
At the same time as many other U.S. leather shoe manufacturers, Allen Edmonds was experiencing financial difficulties. As other manufacturers went bankrupt or switched to overseas production, Allen Edmonds also considered moving its factories overseas. However, John Strenweek, who was president at the time, insisted that “overseas production would compromise Allen Edmonds’ quality,” and the company decided to stick to its own domestic production. As a result, Allen Edmonds overcame the hardship by pursuing high-quality leather shoe manufacturing with high technology. His insistence on purely American-made products may be the reason why he is supported as a symbol of patriotism.
Reason #1 why Allen Edmonds leather shoes are easy to wear: “360-degree Goodyear Welt Process”.
Allen Edmonds’ leather shoe manufacturing has remained unchanged since the company’s founding. Today, more than 700 skilled craftsmen work in five factories to produce leather shoes using 212 different processes. The “360-degree Goodyear welt method” is a unique technique that Allen Edmonds prides itself on.
The “Goodyear welt method,” which is used in many high-end leather shoes, is a method in which the “ribs” attached to the inner sole and the “upper” are sewn together, the “inner material” and the “shank (core material that serves as the backbone of the shoe)” are filled, and then the “outer sole” and the “welt” are sewn together. This allows the foot to adjust to the leather shoe as it is worn, creating a comfortable fit that does not tire the wearer even after long hours of walking. Furthermore, when the soles wear out, the entire sole can be replaced and repaired as an all-sole, which is a big advantage of this method, so you can enjoy wearing your leather shoes for many years.
The Goodyear welt method is usually applied only to the ” front ” of the shoe, although most of the top British brands use this method. Allen Edmonds’ “360-degree Goodyear welt method,” as the name suggests, applies the Goodyear welt method to the “entire shoe,” including the heel, to achieve a more comfortable, high-quality fitting. Originally, new leather shoes have to endure a certain amount of pain for a period of about one month until they become comfortable, but Allen Edmonds’ leather shoes have a reputation for being easy to walk in from the very beginning. The protruding kova that extends over the entire circumference of the shoe is an appearance that can only be expressed by this manufacturing method, and its quality and sturdiness are also part of its appeal.
Reason #2 why Allen Edmonds’ leather shoes are easy to wear: ” Making leather shoes without nails and shanks
Allen Edmonds’ pursuit of comfort, including the 360-degree Goodyear welt method, can be seen in the materials used.
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As shown in the photo above, the sole of a normal leather shoe is fastened at the heel by a nail. However, Allen Edmonds’ leather shoes, which are sewn with the Goodyear welt method, do not require the use of nails. This allows the shoes to significantly reduce the burden on the feet compared to ordinary leather shoes.
In addition, the brand’s special attention is also paid to the innersoles placed on the soles of its shoes. Normally, an iron core called a steel shank is inserted in the sole, but Allen Edmonds does not use this and instead padded the sole with a dense layer of cork.
By eliminating the metallic material, Allen Edmonds has achieved excellent cushioning and shape memory for the foot. This is the secret behind Allen Edmonds’ high quality fit, which feels as if it were custom-made.
Allen Edmonds offers a wide range of sizes! You can choose leather shoes that fit Japanese people’s feet.
No matter how comfortable shoes are, they are meaningless if they do not fit. One of the features of Allen Edmonds is that it offers an unparalleled variety of sizes. The range of sizes from ” 6 ” to ” 16 ” in the U.S. is surprising, but what is especially varied is the development of widths ( “widths”). While British shoes generally come in three widths, Allen Edmonds offers a maximum of 12 sizes, ranging from AAAA to EEE.
Even though the U.S. is a country with a diverse ethnic population, even Alden, an American brand, does not offer such a wide range of sizes. Even for Japanese people, who are said to have a high instep and wide feet, Allen Edmonds is sure to have a leather shoe that fits their feet.
Allen Edmonds’ lasts are available in a wide variety of sizes.
Not only sizes, but also the types of lasts (wooden forms) are very varied.
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Last #65 ]
Allen Edmonds’ best-selling lasts. The last is used for the company’s best-selling shoes, such as ” Park Avenue. Allen Edmonds is known for its short noses, but the 65 last has the longest nose of all the brand’s shoes.
[ #73 last ].
This last was created with the aim of creating a classic American design. The relaxed silhouette around the instep embodies the American casual style. It is used in models such as ” Broad Street “.
Last #79 ]
This last is mainly used for loafers. The low instep and short nose create a loafer silhouette that is uniquely American. There are representative works such as ” Cody “.
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Last #97 ]
Stylishly shaped last reminiscent of Alden’s Aberdeen last. The slender pointed toe is a distinctive feature. It is used in models such as the ” McNeil “, which are popular in Japan.
[ #108 last ].
This wooden model is characterized by narrow narrows at the toe. The tapered curves of this wood type are well suited to the plain toe model, and it is used for the ” Carlisle ” and other models.
[ #222 last ].
This last is characterized by a slender round toe with a European look. It is used for monk strap shoes such as “Norwich” with a silhouette that is comparable to Italian shoes.
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[ #234 last ].
This last is not often used in recent models, but it is a semi-square toe, which is rare for Allen Edmonds, and has a reputation for its good fitting. It is used in the ” Addison ” loafer.
What is Allen Edmonds’ shell cordovan used for ” Park Avenue “?
Cordovan, the “jewel of leather,” is a luxury material. This material, which can be extracted from the right and left sides of the buttocks in very small quantities, has a luxurious luster that cannot be found in cowhide. The Horween Company, based in Chicago, USA, is currently the only tannery in North America that produces the finest cordovan material.” Shell Cordovan” is a registered trademark of the Horween Company, and only cordovan made by this company is allowed to call itself “Shell Cordovan. “Shell Cordovan, tanned with vegetable tannin in the traditional way since 1905, is used in the uppers of classic models such as Allen Edmonds’ “Park Avenue. Allen Edmonds’ “Park Avenue” and other classic models use this vegetable-tanned “Shell Cordovan” for their uppers.
The beautiful shine of Allen Edmonds’ Shell Cordovan shines not only when it is new, but also after five or ten years of wear and care, it takes on a dull, quiet luster. Only Allen Edmonds shoes that have been aged for a long time can have such a beautiful luster that is incomparable to new shoes.
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Introducing Allen Edmonds’ classic models
Allen Edmonds inner-wing straight tip “Park Avenue”
The “Park Avenue” is a royal model. It is an orthodox straight-tip shoe with an inside shuttlecock, but the 360-degree Goodyear welt process gives it a unique presence with its protruding flange. The beautiful silhouette of the #65 last, a masterpiece, is appropriate for a president’s leather shoes. The custom calf version and the shell cordovan version each have their own merits.
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Allen Edmonds double monk strap “MORA 2.0
Allen Edmonds’ signature double monk strap shoe. The #108 last gives the shoes a curvy appearance and a slender round toe. The figure-eight buckle also shows a sense of style. This is a pair that can be used for both business and casual wear.
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Allen Edmonds Long Wingtip “MAC NEIL 2.0
With its majestic medallion, the “McNeil” is a twin favorite with the Park Ave. The austere grain leather matches well with the powerful atmosphere of the derby shoes. The rounded toe is also a perfect hit of harmony. And the elaborate turnover of the wingtip portion shows the high level of stitching technology.
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Allen Edmonds Kenwood Beef Roll Loafer
The “Kenwood” is a representative of the “beef roll loafer,” a type of penny loafer of the American Royal Road. The elaborate pinking (jagged decoration) is not something that can be easily imitated, and it is a shape that is rarely seen in loafers of other brands. The light Mackay manufacturing method realizes a smart and comfortable fit. The burgundy color gives the loafer an American traditional look.
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Allen Edmonds Walnut “NEW ORLEANS” Loafers
The “New Orleans” is popular for its unique and luxurious finish. The upper is braided, the result of Allen Edmonds’ expert skills. This pair works well for off-duty jacket styles and other occasions when you want to make a difference.
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Allen Edmonds Cordovan Chukka Boot s
The CHUKKABOOT is made of cordovan, which is one of the rarest and most valuable materials in the U.S.A., and is made by HORWEEN. The more you wear them, the more your feet become accustomed to them, and their unique luster will gradually appear, so you can look forward to taking care of them.
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