The item that gives the strongest impression of the jacket style is the ” tailored jacket. Even if limited to Italian brands, there are many strong brands in this category, from maison brands to factory brands. This time, we focus on “BOGLIOLI,” which is highly popular among Italian brands and is called the spark of the unconconventional jacket boom, and introduce its charm!
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What is BOGLIOLI?
BOGLIOLI is a long-established brand that has continued for more than 100 years based on the concept of “modern and classic” as a sartoria (tailor). In the mid-1950s, after World War II, his son Giuseppe Boglioli succeeded him and opened an atelier with the most advanced technology of the time. Later, in 1972, the third generation, Mario Boglioli (Mario), made a name for himself worldwide, and the brand has been a long-established brand for more than 100 years until now.
Boglioli wants to recreate the fluffy texture of hand-me-down jackets
Mario says, “At that time, many young people wore hand-me-down jackets, and the fluffy texture was irresistible beyond compare. The “Coat,” launched in 1999, reproduced the wispy texture using a cotton fabric treatment, and the “K Jacket,” launched in 2003, applied the coat washing process to cashmere and other luxury fabrics, are models that strongly reflect the Boglioli concept.
The “Dover” released in 2008 is also considered a masterpiece. One of its popular features is its quality, which successfully incorporates handwork specifications into mass-produced products made by mechanization. In keeping with the concept of Italian sartoria, the soft and supple curves of this model highlight the beauty of the male figure. The narrow body width and short length of the garments make them suitable for the current fashion trend.
What is Boglioli’s signature Ancona jacket?
The official name is unconstructed jacket. It is a coined term in fashion and is called an unconstructed jacket for short. As a negation of the meaning of the word “constructed,” it refers to a soft jacket that fits the body rather than being tight-fitting.
Specifically, it is characterized by the minimal use of lining, interlining, shoulder pads, and other materials used in jackets. Because materials are omitted, the jacket can be woven like a blouson. The cozy elegance that creates a light and soft silhouette is one of the characteristics of Italian-style jackets.
Boglioli’s signature Ancona jacket
Some brands produce unconventional jackets by cutting costs because they use as little material as possible. BOGLIOLI, on the other hand, felt that the unique texture sought by the designer could not be reproduced in a constructed form, and thus the unkonkoned jacket was born by eliminating the use of materials. The use of washed fabrics is also a design based on the concept, and is one of BOGLIOLO’s strengths that cannot be expressed by other brands.
Introduction of Boglioli’s Anconcon jacket compared to the English style
How soft is an Ancona jacket? In this article, we will compare it with an English-style jacket, which can be seen as a contrast. (The top is a BOGLIOLI jacket, and the bottom is a jacket from DUNHILL, a representative British brand.)
The Boglioli jacket is the one that gives off a cozy look without feeling stuffy. The overall silhouette of the jacket is rounded, the chest area is firm, and the lapels ( collar ) are well rounded. The British style has a crisp impression, with each part of the body being fuller and more defined. On the other hand, BOLIOLI’s Ancona jacket has a supple feel that follows the body.
Impression changes depending on the presence or absence of an inner core.
In general, jackets are constructed to look beautiful by using materials such as a padded chest and shoulder pads, and the inside structure is hidden by a lining. On the other hand, an unconventional jacket emphasizes how beautiful lines can be produced from one’s own body. Comparing the way jackets are worn from the viewpoint of each culture’s particular perspective, one can enjoy fashion in a deeper way. It is easy to understand by comparing the pictures of how they are worn. In the following images, the top one is a BOGLIOLI jacket and the bottom one is an English jacket, giving a relaxed and soft impression to the BOGLIOLI.
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Attraction of BOGLIOLI jackets 1 ” Silky touch quality fabric
Many people may first think of the quality of the fabric as a key factor that cannot be overlooked when considering the quality of a jacket. It is said that many of today’s Ancona jackets are blended with polyester or the quality of the fabric has deteriorated, but BOGLOLI’s fabrics are often of high quality that does not give such impression. 100% wool fabric of BOGLIOLI is often of high quality with a luster reminiscent of silk blending.
The “K Jacket,” clad in a design that overturned the common practice of the time, such as dyeing and processing the 100% cashmere fabric, a high-end material, also attracted attention. The color fading caused by the washing process seen on the lapel in the image below creates a sophisticated feel to the luxurious material.
The charm of Boglioli jackets 2 ” Ease of dressing
Ancon jackets have a strong casual image, but BOGLIOLI jackets also incorporate English-style elements in a well-balanced manner. Specifically, the jacket does not use materials such as shoulder pads or interlining, but the silhouette is slightly structured through the use of a unique pattern. The charm of this jacket is that it can be worn on business occasions without discomfort, as it is not too rough, while still maintaining the lightweight comfort and cozy feel that only an unconventional jacket can provide.
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In addition to its incorporation into on-business styles, the casual feel of the dyeing and washing process makes it easy to fit in with jeans and other casual pants. Many men have become addicted to BOLIOLI after experiencing this ease of wear.
Introduction of representative BOGLIOLI models
In 2014, the brand was renamed BOGLIOLI MILANO with the addition of former Ralph Lauren design director Jay Vosoghi. The following is an introduction to some of Boglioli’s most representative models, focusing on the models that are currently being developed.
BOGLIOLI’s representative model ” DOVER
The symbolic model of BOGLIOLI. Based on the concept of “a jacket that can be worn like a cardigan,” it is made with a special emphasis on comfort and ease of use. It is light and comfortable to wear and does not feel tight at all. The silhouette is designed with elements that make it ideal for everyday wear, such as the use of wrinkle-resistant material, and it can also be worn in a business style. ▶︎Click here for details and to purchase ” DOVER
BOGLIOLI’s representative model ” NEW DOVER
This new model is specially designed for the Japanese body shape, which is said to be a flexibile body. The front is slightly narrower and the back is about 2 cm wider to improve the range of motion, so it fits snugly over a thin T-shirt or similar garment, creating a mature look. ▶︎Click here for details and purchase of “NEW DOVER
Representative model of BOGLIOLI “COAT
The “coat” is a model that is said to be the origin of BOGLIOLI. By applying dyeing and washing processes to cotton fabrics, etc., it reproduced the worn-in texture and worn-in feel, and made an impact on the Italian classics of the time. The “coat” is the name of the jacket model, so be careful not to confuse it with the “coat”. ▶︎Click here for details and purchase of “COAT
BOGLIOLI’s representative model “K.JACKET
This model was developed from “coat” and was born in 2003. After sewing the jacket with 100% cashmere high-grade material, a new texture was expressed by dyeing and processing. Recently, K.JACKET has been developing new silhouettes based on “New Dover. ▶︎For more information and to purchase K.JACKET, click here.
Representative model of BOGLIOLI “YORK
This model combines the softness of an Ancon jacket with the structured look of an English-style jacket. The K.JACKET is based on an Ancona jacket and has a supple, thin wool interlining. The silhouette is tighter than that of the ” Dover,” making it suitable for those who prefer a slimmer fit. ▶︎For details and purchase of “YORK”, click here.
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