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Mastering Sweatpants! The “mini-lined” vs. the “3-flap-lined.”

Mastering Sweatpants! The "mini-lined" vs. the "3-flap-lined."

Sweatpants are versatile and useful in all seasons. They have now transcended the boundaries of loungewear and have established a solid position as an indispensable “hassle” item for the adult city style. In this article, we focus on the slightly geeky “fabric” of sweatshirts. Knowing this will surely enhance the resolution of your sweatshirt selection from now on.

Sweatshirts are more than just ounces!Experts are interested in the reverse side of the sweatshirt!

When choosing a sweatshirt, many people first pay attention to the “ounce (oz),” which indicates the thickness of the fabric. This is certainly an important indicator. However, experts who are particular about the specifications of the fabric go even further and check the ” reverse side “. Sweatshirts are generally called “urage,” and are knitted with a three-layer structure consisting of an outer layer, a medium-length yarn, and a yarn lining. The shape and length of the loops made by the backing yarn, as well as the tension of the knitting, can dramatically change the feel of the fabric, as well as its fullness and appearance as it ages. By knowing not only whether the fabric is thick or thin, but also “how the reverse side is knitted,” you will be able to more precisely select the comfort and silhouette that you prefer.

Choose wisely according to the season

From here, we will focus on how sweatshirt enthusiasts specifically identify and select the reverse side. The basic principle is the loop structure of the reverse yarn. First, “mini-lined” is recommended for early spring and early summer. As the name suggests, the loops on the back are very small, and the material is thin and feels almost like a T-shirt. It has the smoothest look of all sweatshirts and is not stiff, so it can be worn without discomfort even in high temperatures.

Left: Back side of the mini-lined sweatshirt, Right: Back side of the 3-ply-lined sweatshirt

In contrast, the ” 3-skipping reverse ” is a special technique in which the backing yarn, which cannot be skipped on a normal knitting machine, is knitted by skipping three loops on a modified knitting machine or the like. The characteristic feature of this fabric is that it has long loops, making it fluffy and bulky. It is a sweatshirt fabric that retains heat because it easily contains air, making it suitable for wearing in the fall and winter seasons.

If you want to fall somewhere in the middle, go for the ” 2-stripes-lined sweatshirt.

By the way, the most standard and most widely distributed type of sweatshirt is “2-ply lined sweatshirt. It combines moderate thickness and elasticity, and is suitable for almost all seasons except midsummer in Japan. It would be a good idea to start with this standard, and then use a mini-lining if you want a lighter feel, or a triple-lining if you want a heavier texture.

Editor Tachibana
A basic and versatile two-fly lined sweatshirt. This fabric is so popular that it is used not only by sweatshirt body manufacturers but also by UNIQLO, MUJI, and others, so to put it badly, it is difficult to make it distinctive and may feel lacking. If you want to enjoy a style with a distinct taste, I personally recommend you to swing to a thin mini-lining or a thick 3-ply lining.

Example of wearing mini-lined sweatpantsThe unique drape of a lightweight fabric gives it an elegant, stylish aura!

The most attractive feature of “mini-lined” sweatpants is the beautiful drape created by the thinness of the fabric. The thinness of the fabric creates a beautiful drape, which is not “drab” as is often the case with thicker sweatpants, and allows for a graceful silhouette. To make the most of this characteristic, a beautiful knit or a well-tailored shirt should be paired with the tops. This is a relaxed yet dignified style that will play a leading role in the “beautifully relaxed” style that will make you feel like an adult with a sense of freedom.

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Here is the key to choosing mini-lined sweatpants!Loose-fitting silhouette accentuates the drape!

Because mini-lined sweatpants have a unique feel, wearing them in a thicker silhouette creates a graceful drape that adds an elegant touch to your outfit. In order to accentuate this drape, fashion brands often tailor thicker pants with thin jersey-like cut and sewn fabrics. If you want to enjoy the elegant silhouette of mini-lined sweatpants, check out sweatpants with a thicker silhouette, such as those with a width of 35 cm or more at the armpits.

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Examples of how to wear 3-skipping lined sweatpantsThe heavy-weight, rugged texture that is typical of American casual will tickle your manly heart!

The appeal of “3-skipping lined sweatpants” is their rugged and powerful texture. The thick and resilient material does not bulk up when worn, and the three-dimensional silhouette of the pants stands out. Another point that tickles men’s fancy is that the more these pants are used, the more the surface develops a deep, rich texture, allowing them to age well. These pants are perfect for the American casual style. Even when worn with a voluminous long coat, down jacket, or military coat, the presence of the pants will not be overshadowed. The right footwear is a pair of high volume sneakers such as New Balance or work boots to give the pants a rugged look.

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Here's what you need to know about choosing 3-ply lined sweatpants!Straight silhouette to avoid wildness!

Thick 3-ply lined sweatpants may give an unfashionable impression if worn in a size that is too thick and not in line with the body shape. If you want to create a sophisticated adult mood while keeping in mind the recent wide pants trend, aim for a slightly thicker, straight silhouette with an armpit width of about 30cm or less.

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What is the difference between pile-lined and brushed-lined sweatpants? What is the difference between a pile lining and a brushed lining?

By the way, the looped backside explained up to this point is also called ” pile back (裏毛). It easily absorbs sweat like a towel and has a dry feel. On the other hand, the “pile back” is made from the fibers of these loops by a special process. The raised fibers create a layer of air, which provides overwhelming warmth, but its water absorbency is inferior to that of pile. It is wise to choose between ” pile-lined ” for active days and daily use and ” raised-lined ” for cold-weather protection indoors in winter.

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