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Gianni Agnelli, a 20th-century Italian icon who served as honorary chairman of the automaker Fiat and the soccer club Juventus FC, and was appointed a lifetime senator in his later years.Known as a dapper dresser, his fashion style has influenced many men. In this article, we explore his aesthetic and philosophy through his attire. We hope this provides some inspiration for those of us living today as we develop our own sense of style.
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Gianni Agnelli’s Consistent Philosophy of DressPrioritizing Substance Over Glitz
When discussing Agnelli’s style, it is important to note that his criteria for selection were never based on superficial luxury or fleeting trends.What he valued most were the handiwork of trusted artisans and highly durable materials. His suits were bespoke pieces from the prestigious Roman tailor “Domenico Caraceni” and “A. Caraceni” in Milan. He also placed orders with long-established Savile Row tailors such as “Huntsman” in the UK.He reportedly chose fabrics—primarily wool—that could be worn for a long time, and did not favor excessively luxurious materials such as cashmere.
This approach of “carefully selecting essential items with a solid background” also underlies his lifestyle.As his grandson John Elkan reveals in his book, Agnelli used to say, “Fresh vegetables come from the market, and freshly caught seafood comes from the fishermen,” and he was said to be meticulous about freshness and provenance in everything he chose.
In fact, the suits he had tailored have been passed down to his grandchildren’s generation.Another grandson, Rapo Elkan, reportedly still wears a Karaceni flannel suit inherited from his grandfather on special occasions. His discerning eye for selecting suits that could be worn across three generations is a true symbol of his philosophy, which remained steadfastly committed to essentialism.
From here, I’d like to delve into the specifics of his fashion style.As seen in the second image of the gallery above, Agnelli, up until his 40s, embodied the very essence of aristocracy; from the way he wore his suits to his meticulously groomed hairstyle and choice of accessories, there was not a single flaw.Later, as he grew older, he added a touch of playfulness to his attire while maintaining his dignity. Many of his iconic styles, which are still talked about today, were shaped during this period. Here, we’ll introduce his fashion sense.
Gianni Agnelli’s Iconic Style #1The Style of Wearing a Watch Over Cufflinks: An Influence That Transcended Political and Business Circles
Agnelli’s most famous iconic style is wearing a wristwatch over his shirt cuffs.It is said to have originated from a practical reason: hiding the watch inside the sleeve made it difficult to check the time quickly. Other theories suggest it was to avoid damaging the tight cuffs of shirts custom-ordered from the Roman shirtmaker Battistoni, or that it was due to a metal allergy.
This style became a talking point across political and business circles; Fred Hughes, Andy Warhol’s business manager, emulated it, and the late Valentino Garavani also stated, “I, too, imitated Agnelli by wearing my watch over the cuff.”Tom Ford, on the other hand, recalled that although he tried this style in his youth, it didn’t suit him, noting that “such a pretentious imitation only works for Agnelli himself.”
Incidentally, while Agnelli is said to have owned numerous wristwatches, he was particularly known for his fondness for Everard watches.In his later years, he was frequently seen in public wearing the brand’s “Travel Setro” over his cuffs.
Gianni Agnelli’s Iconic Style #2Combining a Tied-Up Style with Casual Shoes
Another essential element of Agnelli’s style was his deliberate choice to pair a tied-up suit with casual shoes.Styles that paired his outfit with loafers, driving shoes, or even hiking boots were a staple of his look.
In particular, it is said that he began wearing boots after sustaining a leg injury in a car racing accident; when his doctor recommended a brace, he chose hiking boots that supported his ankle instead.From then on, he elevated their practicality into a unique form of elegance. It is also widely known that he was a devoted wearer of the “W.G. Boots,” a gift from Diego Della Valle, the founder of Tod’s. This model gained international popularity largely due to his wearing it.
While this style has now become established as a technique for giving a suit a more relaxed look, it was likely only accepted because of well-dressed pioneers like Agnelli who adopted it early on.
Gianni Agnelli’s Iconic Style #3Unconventional Ways to Wear Ties and Button-Down Shirts
Wearing ties and button-down shirts in ways that defy convention is also part of Gianni Agnelli’s iconic style. Both are remembered as playful fashion choices, and to this day, many celebrities eagerly emulate them.
He wore his tie with the narrow end hanging slightly longer than the wide end, allowing it to peek out from underneath.Another characteristic was keeping both ends of the tie above belt level and keeping the overall length relatively short. Franco Minucci, founder of Tie Your Tie, has stated that he was influenced by this style, and it is now widely recognized as a classic variation in formal attire.
With button-down shirts, a style in which the top button of the collar is deliberately left undone has become popular. This look is used not only for casual attire but also for formal, tie-and-suit ensembles, creating a relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere while maintaining the elegance unique to formal wear.Former Ferrari Chairman Luca di Montezemolo and Tod’s owner Diego della Valle have also adopted this style, and it is clear that Agnelli’s influence played a role in its popularity.
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