Joseph Cheaney’s perpetual classic! What is the appeal of the “Alfred” straight tip with inside wings?

What is Joseph Cheaney’s signature model ” ALFRED

The Joseph Cheaney “Alfred” that we pick up this time is the brand’s signature model. From here, we will take a closer look at the features of this masterpiece of straight-tip shoes with an inner sole.

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Attraction of Joseph Cheaney’s “Alfred” (1) “Using the #125 last of the anniversary model

Joseph Cheaney, which celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2011 after becoming independent from Prada, newly created the “#125” last. The #125 is Joseph Cheaney’s first combination last, a round toe last with volume at the toe, befitting its classic design. Based on the #2003 round toe last, which is considered one of Joseph Cheaney’s most famous, the small, tight heel cup is inherited from the classic #6184, one of the oldest lasts in the Cheaney lineup. The design, with its high instep and loose fit and tight heel, can be said to be easy to fit the Japanese foot shape. Although this last model has a shorter history than other lasts, its calculated form and comfortable fitting have made it the first of Cheeny’s standard lasts.

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Attraction of Joseph Cheaney “Alfred” (2) “Balanced and luxurious cap

Compared to straight tips made by other British shoemakers, the Alfred gives the impression of having a slightly shallower cap. The cap on the voluminous, chunky toe is well balanced and gives a sense of elegance.

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Attraction of Joseph Cheaney “Alfred” (3) “Swan neck stitching that adorns the inner feathers

Cheyney’s Alfred is characterized by the ” swan neck stitching ” on the inner feathers. As the name suggests, it is a stitch that ties a graceful curve like a swan’s neck, and as an accent to the basic straight tip with an inside feather, it is a point that launches the individuality of the item.

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Joseph Cheaney “Alfred” charm (4) “Goodyear-welted manufacturing method is adopted for high durability and easy repair”.

The Goodyear-welted manufacturing method adopted by Cheyney’s Alfreds is a standard manufacturing method for ready-made shoes in England. By sewing on tape-like ” ribs ” as if scooping them, and then sewing on the outsole and welt for the sole, the process not only increases strength, but also completely separates the upper and outsole into separate parts, minimizing damage to the shoe, and making repairs easy. The gap between the inner sole and the main sole is filled with cork, which allows the cork to sink in as the shoe is worn, a process known to be very comfortable for the foot. As they are worn in, they grow to be as comfortable as bispoke shoes. On the other hand, there is a disadvantage that the shoe size increases as the cork sinks into the shoe, so it is necessary to select the size at the time of purchase in anticipation of after-wear comfort.

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Attractiveness of Joseph Cheaney’s “Alfred” (5) “Different sole specifications

Alfred currently offers three types of soles, each with a different letter at the end of the alphabet.

Single leather sole of “Alfredo

The most commonly distributed version, Alfred with a leather sole, is characterized by its luxurious and elegant appearance. The brand logo and “Made in England/Goodyear Welted” are engraved on the outsole, and the bottom of the sole is beautifully decorated with an engraved decoration using a tool called a kazari wheel. Because of the leather sole, the sole as well as the upper leather will become softer and more comfortable as it ages. Compared to rubber, the sole wears down more, but since partial repairs and processing are easy to do, the sole can be enjoyed for a longer time with repeated care.

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Alfred R” with dyed-nite sole

The “Alfred R” model uses a dyneite sole manufactured by the British company Harbor Rubber. Along with Italy’s Vibram, the dyneite sole is the most commonly used rubber sole in dress shoes, and is characterized by its stickiness and flexibility compared to soles made by other manufacturers. The round point pattern enhances grip, yet the pattern is not noticeable when worn, so it does not interfere with the shoe’s design, and the single sole can be tailored to create a classic leather sole look.

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Alfred D” with diamond rubber sole

The “Alfred D” also comes in a single sole version, with the “Diamond Rubber Sole,” Cheenie’s original rubber sole. As the name suggests, it features a diamond-shaped cutting pattern, a material that improves grip and cushioning while maintaining the neat impression of a leather sole.

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