What is it about the “Spring Drive GMT” that makes Grand Seiko so appealing to the bone marrow?

Grand Seiko is highly favored by watch lovers overseas as well as in Japan. The secret of its popularity lies in the development of innovative movements that realize high precision based on the high aesthetic value and mechanical engineering produced by traditional Japanese craftsmanship. Grand Seiko currently offers more than 150 different models, among which the Spring Drive GMT “SBGE205” is unrivaled for its basic, sleek form and superb design, including the blued steel 24-hour hand. In this issue, we focus on the “SBGE205” and introduce its charms!

The “SBGE205” is a royal model filled with the delicious aspects of Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko was born in 1960, at the height of the Swiss watchmaking industry, under the slogan “Catching up with and surpassing the Swiss,” and became an independent brand from Seiko in 2017. The “SBGE205” is equipped with the “Caliber 9R66,” a revolutionary Spring Drive movement with a GMT function.

In addition to the original Spring Drive mechanism, the dial has a “thick silver radiant finish,” “multi-faceted diamond-cut hour and minute hands,” and multi-faceted indexes, all of which seem ordinary at first glance, but are made with the utmost care and attention to detail. This is a timepiece that follows the “Seiko Style,” Grand Seiko’s design philosophy, and can be said to be a timeless, royal watch.

Next, we will introduce the specific charms of the ” SBGE205.

The case design of the “SBGE205” is a condensed version of Grand Seiko’s design philosophy

The case design of the Grand Seiko follows that of the masterpiece “44GS” created in 1967. This distinctive design, composed of straight lines, flat surfaces, and secondary curved surfaces, is known as the ” Seiko Style. The design policy of the Seiko Style is “a design consisting mainly of planes and secondary curved surfaces, with planes as the main body. As a rule, tertiary curved surfaces should not be used.” “The area of flat surfaces should be increased as much as possible throughout the case, dial, and hands. “As a rule, each surface should be mirror-like, and distortion should be eliminated from the mirror surface as much as possible.” These are the three principles of the watch. This aesthetic has been passed down for 50 years.

The flat surface of the front side is polished without any distortion, and a special polishing method called ” rough polishing ” is used to create a three-dimensional case with many flat surfaces, resulting in a beautifully shining case.

Multi-faceted diamond-cut hour and minute hands

Grand Seiko’s hour and minute hands have sharp edges and gleam like precious stones. In addition to the craftsman’s technique of “multi-faceted diamond cut,” in which the sides are cut at an angle, a polished finish is applied to create a unique brilliance. Even the tips of the hands have been meticulously crafted to ensure high legibility as well as beauty.

Not only the hands, but also the indexes are polished with a multi-faceted cut technique. The three-dimensional shape and polished finish create a sparkling shine and beautiful shadows on the other side. 12 o’clock index is twice as wide as the other two, emphasizing the vertical line between 12 and 6 o’clock and making it easier to read the time.

Thick silver radial finish with a beautiful radial expression

Grand Seiko’s flat dials are designed after extensive research and verification to highlight the indexes and hands, respectively. The “thick silver radiant finish” dial, which uses a special technique unique to this brand, expands into beautiful radiant lines when it catches the light, creating a luster with depth.

Calendar that allows the date to be recognized at a glance

A calendar is mounted at the 3 o’clock position. The small window, which is not too large, has been carefully calculated to balance with the dial size. The date can be recognized at a glance by displaying the numerals right up to the edge of the small window.

Power-reserve indicator that adds a touch of design refinement

The power-reserve indicator at the 7 o’clock-8 o’clock position is also exquisitely sized so as not to interfere with legibility. The power reserve is approximately 72 hours. For example, a businessman who works on weekdays can take it off on Friday and wear it again on the following Monday without any problem. The blank space on the dial created by the sharply sized power reserve indicator, combined with the smooth movement of the second hand produced by the original mechanism, gives the watch the appearance of a matured adult.

GMT function suitable for the global man

The “SBGE205” is equipped with a GMT function. The dual time on the outer circumference is indicated by an ingenious GMT hand. The “SBGE205” is characterized by its neat look, but the beautiful blued steel GMT hand also functions as a design accent, making it stand out from the crowd. It is an ideal watch for smartly traveling around the world, whether on vacation or a business trip abroad.

Logo design that embodies the Grand Seiko philosophy

The Grand Seiko logo is placed at the 12 o’clock position. In 2017, Grand Seiko removed the word “SEIKO” from the dials of all its models and replaced it with the Grand Seiko logo only. This is proof that we have inherited the thoughts of our predecessors who created the first generation Grand Seiko and have made a name for ourselves not as “the best of SEIKO” but as “the best of the world.

In March 2017, Grand Seiko became an independent brand from SEIKO, aiming for a higher level, and only the Grand Seiko logo is displayed at 12 o’clock on the dial.

High level of machining precision ensures outstanding legibility from all angles

The SBGE205 has a dual-curved sapphire glass windshield. The spherical shape of not only the front but also the back of the glass ensures high visibility. Although it is extremely difficult to process a sapphire crystal glass with high hardness, Grand Seiko is proud of its extremely high level of processing accuracy. This dual-curved sapphire glass is coated with an anti-reflective coating to achieve an impressive level of visibility.” The time can be recognized from all angles, even in sunlight,” is one of the brand’s most famous accolades.

Metal bracelet that feels as if it is attached to the wearer’s wrist

The metal bracelet is made of high quality material with a moderate weight and comfortable feel. The corners of the bracelet’s combs are smoothly finished, making the watch feel as if it is being held in one’s hand. The combination of satin and polished surfaces and the slightly elevated saddle, all of which have been thoroughly crafted to ensure a natural fit on the wrist, are examples of how the bracelet is designed. The middle clasp uses a double-push three-fold type, so there is no need to worry about the watch falling off, even if one side of the button is accidentally pressed while wearing it. The watch has an outstanding sense of luxury and is polished to an eye-catching beauty by craftsmen using special polishing techniques.

Equipped with Grand Seiko’s renowned “9R Spring Drive” mechanism

A mechanism that realizes a high-precision watch that does not rely on batteries

Spring drive is Seiko’s proprietary drive mechanism that uses the mainspring used in mechanical watches as the power source, but controls accuracy with precise signals from a quartz crystal, which is the control system for quartz watches. The two major elements in a watch’s movement mechanism are the ” power ” and the ” control system “. In the case of the Spring Drive, the “mainspring” used in mechanical watches is responsible for the power part, while the “tri-synchronous regulator” used in quartz watches is responsible for the control system. In other words, this movement combines the advantages of a mechanical watch, which is powered semi-permanently by the watch itself, and the advantages of a quartz watch, which is highly accurate.

Although the company revolutionized quartz watches in 1969 with the ” SEIKO QUARTZ ASTRON,” it was quick to develop a wristwatch that could achieve high precision without relying on external factors such as batteries or light. After much research and trial and error, the company succeeded in commercializing the Spring Drive in 1999. The assembly of a spring-driven chronograph watch is extremely complex, with more than 200 parts for a three-hand model and more than 300 parts for a spring-driven chronograph. The blueprints for the watches are written down to the nearest 0.01 mm, and it is surprising to learn that the final machining and adjustment of parts to the nearest 0.01 mm or less is done not by robots or computers, but by the human eye and hand. The state-of-the-art component processing technology and the presence of watchmakers with the world’s highest level of craftsmanship are what support Grand Seiko’s technology.

Sweep hands that mark time as if gliding over the dial

The 9R66 caliber was born in 2006, just two years after the completion of Grand Seiko’s first 9R spring drive movement, the 9R65. In addition to its superior power and precision, the 9R66 was equipped with a GMT function. One of the common features of the Spring Drive is the movement of the second hand. It is not a step hand like a quartz watch, nor a beat hand like a mechanical watch, but a sweep hand that glides across the dial without a sound. The sweep hand glides across the dial without any sound. The movement of the second hand is like a fluid representation of time.

The movement, which is a concentration of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, can be viewed through the see-through back.

The uncompromisingly beautiful finish of each and every part is also a marvel to behold. The style of pursuing quality even in parts that cannot be seen from the front is just like traditional Japanese craftsmanship. The movement of the sophisticated movement can be viewed through the see-through back.

Click here for product details

Grand Seiko’s ” SBGE205 ” is an exclusive product available only at Grand Seiko Master Shops nationwide. Since it is available in various regions, those who are interested in this product should visit a Master Shop near you. ▶︎Locate a store that carries the “SBGE205”!

Case Material : Stainless steel case
Back: Stainless steel and sapphire glass
Case Material : Stainless steel case
Back: Stainless steel and sapphire glass
Glass Material : Dual curved sapphire glass
Coating : Internal anti-reflection coating
Case Size : Length 49.0mm x Width 41.0mm x Thickness 13 .8mm
Wrist circumference (longest): 198.0mm
Movement: Caliber 9R66
Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month on average (equivalent to ±1 second per day)
Water resistance: Water resistant to 10 atm
Magnetic resistance: Yes
Weight: 157.0 g
Price: 570,000 yen (excluding tax)