Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the leading Swiss manufacture brands. Their beautiful and high quality watches, such as half-turn watches and ultra-thin dress watches, are unrivaled by any other manufacturer. In this issue, we introduce the charm of Jaeger-LeCoultre! robbreport
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What is Jaeger-LeCoultre?
Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that has maintained a manufacture system for many years, and is one of only a few companies in the watchmaking powerhouse of Switzerland. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been involved in many inventions and produced a vast number of movements since its establishment. Jaeger-LeCoultre has supplied movements to the world’s three major brands, such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. In addition to its high-precision movements, the brand is also known for its original designs, such as the ” Reverso ” with its rotating dial. The company is particular about commercializing only those movements that have passed a rigorous 1,000-hour test, while combining aesthetics and performance.
History of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre began with a small workshop opened by its founder
Jaeger-LeCoultre was founded in 1833 by Antoine-Lecoultre, a watchmaker who opened a small atelier in Le Sentier. He was not only a watchmaker, but also an inventor of the machine tools necessary for watchmaking, such as a machine to cut watch canes from steel.
Antoine LeCoultre (1803-1881)
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Contributing to the evolution of watchmaking with historic inventions
In 1844, eleven years after founding his workshop, Mr. LeCoultre invented the ” Millionometer,” the first instrument ever to measure the micron. This instrument is said to have changed the history of watchmaking, as it made it possible to manufacture more accurate components. Furthermore, in 1987, the first dragon-head winding watch was created. Pocket watches of the time required a key to wind and set them. It would be no exaggeration to say that this system, which uses a small button and a crown instead of a key, redefined the way watches were used. The fact that Mr. Antoine Lecoultre dared not to patent this system so that other watchmakers could quickly adopt it shows how much he has contributed to the history of watchmaking. These inventions and pocket watches by Mr. Lecoultre were presented at the first World’s Fair in London in 1851, where they won a gold medal.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre was one of the first to adopt the “Manufacture System
In the late 19th century, it was common in watchmaking for several operations, from component making to assembly, to be divided among several hundred in-house workshops. To bring these processes and technicians together under one roof, Mr. Lecoultre and his son Elie Lecoultre founded LeCoultre & Cie, the first full-scale manufacture in the Joux Valley. 1870 saw over 500 employees working in the Lecoultre LeCoultre & Cie was known as the ” Grande Maison de la Vallée de Joux “. By 1900, more than 350 different movements had been produced, 128 of them with chronograph functions. By 1900, Jaeger-LeCoultre had produced more than 350 different movements, 128 of which were equipped with chronograph functions and 99 with repeater mechanisms. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacturing skills were so outstanding that for 30 years, starting in 1902, it produced the movements for the majority of Patek Philippe’s wristwatches, the most prestigious watch brand in the world.
The birth of the ” Jaeger-LeCoultre ” brand
One of the brand’s architects was Edmond Jaeger, a watchmaker based in Paris, France. He was well known for his development of movements, and was also famous for working with Louis Cartier, the owner of Cartier at the time, to create the famous “Santos” watch.
Edmond Jaguar first came into contact with ” LeCoultre & Cie ” in 1903. Jacques David LeCoultre, grandson of Antoine LeCoultre, accepted an order to develop an ultra-thin movement that he himself had invented. This led to the development of the thinnest movement in the world, the ” LeCoultre Calibre 145 ” in 1907, which at 1.38 mm thick is still the thinnest pocket watch movement ever made.
Edmond Jaeger and Jacques David-LeCoultre continued to collaborate on projects such as the exclusive contract to supply movements to Cartier and the development of the new wristwatch Reverso, and in 1937, the ” Jaeger-LeCoultre ” brand was officially born. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s pursuit of invention, which has continued since its founder, has never been quenched, and in addition to Patek Philippe, the company has supplied movements to other renowned Swiss manufacturers such as Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. To date, Patek Philippe has produced more than 1,242 different types of movements and has been granted approximately 400 patents. The number of new inventions is said to exceed 100.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso”, a long-selling model with a counter-rotating dial
In the 1930s, polo was the sport of choice for the aristocracy, and the Reverso is still the face of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Although sapphire crystal glass is now commonly used for the windshield of luxury wristwatches, the low-hardness glass used at that time could not withstand the demands of polo. In 1931, in response to a request from the aristocracy for a watch that could withstand the shock of polo, the world’s first reversible square watch, the ” Reverso ” was born.
The idea of turning the dial itself upside down to prevent it from breaking was something no one had thought of at the time.
In 1933, two years after the first Reverso was launched, the company completed a model equipped with its own movement. Its high precision was recognized, and it became a favorite not only of polo players but also of the military.
Although production was temporarily halted due to the development of tempered glass and quartz shocks, the company once again attracted attention when it introduced a new series of water-resistant watches in 1984. Currently, the company offers a wide variety of watches, including the “Tribute to 1931,” which is designed after the first model, the “Duetto,” which offers two faces on the front and back dials, and the “Grande Complication,” which features a tourbillon and a minute repeater. The “Duetto” collection features two faces on the front and back “double-sided” dials.
The ” Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Collection “, a diverse range of watches from royalty to complications
The Master Collection, which consists of the Master Grand Tradition, Master Ultra Slim, and Master Control, is characterized by its elegant design, which is typical of the luxury watch brand. The Master Slim, in particular, is inspired by the world’s thinnest ultra-thin pocket watch developed in 1907, achieving the ultimate in minimalism. The case is an astonishing 3.6 mm thick.
The Master Control was the first model to be subjected to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s original inspection standard ” 1000 Hours Control ” in 1992. The case and the dial are made with a sense of balance, and the watch radiates a nobility that cannot be contained within the framework of a mere three-hand watch.
The Master Grand Tradition series, with a selling price of over 10 million yen, is equipped with complications such as perpetual calendar and tourbillon as a matter of course, while the dials are exquisitely designed with diamonds and other precious stones. These are wristwatches that only royalty, aristocrats, and executives are allowed to own.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic”, a revival of a legendary watch
In 1958, a very small number of the ” Geophysic Chronograph ” were produced for the scientists involved in the International Year of Earth Observation. The legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre model, which watch collectors have been pursuing with a keen eye, was reissued in 2014 and will be available as a regular model in 2015.
The reissue of the ” Geophysic 1958 ” closely resembles the original with its central cross, four Arabic numerals indexes, and sword-shaped hands with Super-LumiNova, creating an adventurous piece reminiscent of the 1950s.
The regular Geophysic True Seconds and Geophysic Universal Time models each feature a new design. The True Seconds model has removed the crosses from the dial, and with its simple three hands and date display, it has the appearance of a dress watch. Inside, however, the watch is equipped with a specially shaped balance called ” Gyrolab ” that reduces aerodynamic drag and boasts high precision.
The most distinctive feature of the Universal Time is its dial design. The dial design depicts the northern hemisphere as if looking down on the North Pole from above, as if expressing the history of earth observation. The continental motifs are hand-engraved one by one, and while this is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first world timer model, it is also the culmination of traditional craftsmanship.
Out of the Box! Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quality test ” 1000 Hours Control
Jaeger-LeCoultre has established its own quality test, the ” 1000 Hours Control. As the name implies, all watches manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre are tested for 1,000 hours in six categories: “accuracy,” “resistance to temperature changes,” “resistance to changes in air pressure,” “shock resistance,” “resistance to magnetic fields,” and “water resistance.
The Swiss Chronometer Test by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) is well known as a quality assurance test for top manufacturers such as Rolex and Omega, but even this test takes approximately 360 hours to complete. Japan’s Grand Seiko has established its own ” New GS Standard ” to compete with the Swiss chronometer standard, which takes 408 hours. The “Hallmark of Geneva” for the top brand Patek Philippe is said to be about 600 hours, and this should tell you that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 1000 hours is an extraordinary figure. Furthermore, unlike the Swiss Chronometer test, which is only for the movement, the 1000-hour control is for the “completed wristwatch.
In the past, the extremely strict Swiss Chronometer test was said to have a passing rate of only 5%. Only watches that have passed the test, which takes almost three times as long, can be marketed as Jaeger-LeCoultre watches.
Introducing Jaeger-LeCoultre’s classic models
Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Classique
The ” Reverso ” is a semi-rotating wristwatch that symbolizes Jaeger-LeCoultre. The classic model is slightly smaller and reproduces the original design from the time of its birth. It has an appearance that will appeal to those who prefer an antique look. It is an excellent product for formal occasions.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre “Master Control
This is the first model to incorporate the original inspection standard ” 1000 hours control ” that is synonymous with the brand. It is a classical, orthodox dress watch that adorns the wrist for all occasions. The royal round case, dial, and silver hands are exquisitely balanced. The highly reliable movement and 50-meter water resistance make this model attractive in terms of performance as well.
Jaeger-LeCoultre “Geophysic True Second
The ” Geophysic ” collection was added to the regular line in 2015. Despite its simple design, this highly functional model is equipped with a specially shaped balance “Gyrolab” and a newly developed Cal. 220 automatic movement made of 22-karat gold. Although it is a center-seconds model, it consists of as many as 275 parts, the same number as chronograph models. It combines performance and beauty far beyond that of a typical sports watch.
