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Attraction of Crockett & Jones “Richmond” (4) “Worshipful mocca with a distinctive three-dimensional U-tip
The “mocca,” a U-shaped design on the vamp (instep), is used not only for penny loafers but also for shoes of various casual tastes. The Crockett & Jones Richmond uses the classic “mocca de mocca” manufacturing method. This is a method of sewing the leather bumps (cross-sections) together by butting them against each other, and is characterized by a crisp design that emphasizes the U-tip portion. For casual models, it is common to sew the mocca by hand stitching, but Richmond uses machine stitching, which is less assertive and more elegant.
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What is the difference from another coin loafer “HARVERD” by Crockett & Jones?
The “Harvard” is an unlined model of Crockett & Jones’ classic loafer, the “BOSTON,” and uses the exact same last as the Richmond. Although the designs are quite similar, the major difference between the two is the mocca stitching specification. As mentioned above, the Richmond uses a “worship mocca. Harvard, however, uses a distinctive hand-stitching technique called “scoop mocca” or “grab mocca,” in which the craftsman pinches the leather and applies the stitches by hand, and this difference in mocca design is the biggest difference between the two.
[ Related article ] Crockett & Jones’ hidden masterpiece, the penny loafer! What is the charm of “HARVARD”?
Attraction of Crockett & Jones “RICHMOND” (5) “Classic Royal Loafer Last “#314″”
It is no exaggeration to say that the last (wooden form), which molds the three-dimensional shape and creates the individuality of the shoe, is the most important tool used in shoemaking. Crockett & Jones is known for owning the largest number of lasts in the world, which can be called “assets” of shoemakers, due to its long history and OEM experience with many brands and manufacturers.
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The Richmond uses #314, which is called the royal last of Crockett & Jones loafers, which have many lasts. The round toe of the #314, which fits well with penny loafers with a strong traditional impression, is characterized by its rounded design with volume at the toe. The last design is different from Westerners’ foot shape, which is thin and thin with a wide-width (foot width and foot circumference) feeling, and even Japanese foot shape, which is wide and thick, can feel relatively relaxed and comfortable.
Richmond 2″ using the last #376, which is tailored to Japanese feet
Loafers using #314 are globally popular models, but since the last is still made to fit Western foot shapes, the heel inevitably feels too big for Japanese people, even if the toe and the width match. Therefore, even if you choose a size that fits the average Japanese foot, the heel will often be a little too big. In the case of slip-on shoes that cannot be adjusted with laces, it is not uncommon to find that “no matter what size I choose, it just doesn’t feel right. The “Richmond 2” model is a reproduction of the #316 last, which is a wider version of the #314 last, with a deeper gouge in the calf and a smaller heel cup. In fact, the image used in this detail introduction is also from the Richmond 2.
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Crockett & Jones “Richmond” Attraction 6: “City sole that gives a dressy impression while providing good grip and cushioning.
In the “Standard Collection” of Crockett & Jones, to which Richmond belongs, there are three types of outsoles: the “single leather sole” with a strong formal impression, the “dinite sole with double sole” with a volume combined with the midsole, and the “city sole” with a single sole and the company’s original parts. The “City Sole,” which is a single sole and an original part of the company, is available in three types of outsoles. The third, the City sole, is mainly used in the current model. The ” City Sole,” Crockett & Jones’ original rubber sole, was created by combining the best of the advantages of the leather sole and the Dainite sole, and is as thin as the leather sole. Its unique pattern is more discreetly uneven than that of the Dainite sole, yet it provides better grip and cushioning, and uses stickier rubber as a raw material. This outsole is said to be compatible with rubber glue at the time of sole bonding and easy to fix.
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