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Elegance meets country in the ” Trickers James ” coin loafer from Trickers
The coin loafer with box calf upper is a representative of the Tricker’s lineup, and the Goodyear welt and storm welt applied over 360 degrees are of a high standard, the result of traditional techniques by skilled craftspeople.
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The saddle is one of the most iconic details of a coin loafer, and the James features what is known as a ” beefy roll ” design, in which the ends of the half-saddle are wrapped with thread. The name “beef roll” comes from its appearance like roast beef wrapped with octopus thread. The beef roll, which is often used in American shoes, is characterized by a more casual atmosphere than the usual half-saddle. In James, however, the design looks like three square stitches arranged in a row, providing an important accent while reducing volume and presence.
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The U-shaped moccasins are made of fine box calf with a beautiful luster, and two pieces of the box calf are pasted together and sewn into the “ogamimocha” style. The moderately long nose and sharp almond toe create a sophisticated impression.
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The design of the heel is also a point of interest. The heel design is also a point of interest, with a single-stitched detailing that shows its presence even on the back view. The design attention to detail is also evident in the pinking (jagged decoration) around the footwear opening.
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Not only the design, but also the silhouette and modeling are unique. The toe leather upper and vamp are set low. In addition, the vamp is deep so that the instep of the foot is covered to a greater extent. This makes the area where bare feet and socks can be seen narrower, giving the loafer an elegant appearance similar to a lace-up dress shoe.
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High-quality leather is also used for the lining and insole. The insoles are stamped with the Tricker’s logo and the “Prince of Wales” coat of arms, a royal warrant given by Prince Charles.
Tricker’s is famous for its “country shoes,” but the brand’s skills are also inherited in the production of loafers. This is symbolized by the technique of attaching the sole. The majority of loafers generally use the Mackay or cement method for lightness. On the other hand, James uses the Goodyear welt method, which is a tradition in Northampton, England. The “all-around Goodyear welt” method, in which the welt is placed around the entire circumference of the shoe, rather than the usual forefoot welt only, is used. This method, also known as “double-welted” or “360-degree welt,” is mainly used for country shoes. Since no nails are used around the heel, the shoes are lighter than those made with the normal Goodyear welt method, despite their massive appearance.
One of the most visually striking features of Goodyear welted shoes is the welt (a narrow strip of leather) around the outer edge of the shoe. In this model, the welt is not flat, but rather raised in the center to form a protective barrier around the upper. This is a “storm welt,” and as the name suggests, it was created to prevent sand and dust from entering the gap between the upper and sole, and as a decorative feature to increase volume. Storm welt is mainly used for country shoes and double-soled external shutters, but the fact that it is used for coin loafers is a glimpse of Tricker’s attention to detail.
Shoes made with the Goodyear welt method leave welt stitches on the outsole due to the structure of the shoe. In addition, to prevent the threads from rubbing against the ground and breaking, a channel is dug, which is a common feature of leather soles. In the case of ordinary leather shoes, the thread stitching and the channel are visible from the outside in an “open channel,” but James uses a “hidden channel,” in which both the stitching threads and the channel are hidden. The Hidden Channel is a process in which a leather knife is used to cut a slit in the surface of the leather sole, where the threads are hidden, and is much more labor intensive than the Open Channel. This is a specification that is used only in high-end shoes, but it gives an elegant appearance. The charm of this model is that it combines rugged elements with a high level of dignity.
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