The frenzy of vintage and street fashion has subsided, and clothes lovers’ eyes are shifting to ” how to make a difference with plain colors. The post-quiet-luxury mood calls for clothing that appeals through its materials, shape, and specifications, rather than through the strength of its logos and graphics. Overlapping this is the rise of fitness culture. Clothes that suit men who are renewing their bodies, not for the sake of showing off, are becoming the current mood.
At the intersection of these two trends, the henley neck has emerged as an it item. It has a more relaxed neckline than the crewneck and is not as formal as a shirt. Low-priced brands and even the emerging D2C are all introducing henley necks in preparation for the year 2026.
However, there must be many people who think that “clothes that look like that” with only a superficial placket is not enough for everyday wear for adults. What we would like to propose is “WADE,” which reinterprets the bold background of the henley neck using Yamagata’s knit technology. More than a T-shirt, less than a shirt, the henley-neck knit can update the most frequently used area of a man’s daily life.
A look back at past trendsWhy are henley necks hot right now?
Vintage and street have been at the center of men’s fashion for the past few spring/summer seasons. The fading of the body, the blurring of prints, the reality of processing. The focus of clothing selection was on what story to put on top of a simple crew-neck T-shirt. However, the current trend is different. While simple clothes are gaining popularity, it is not the embellishment but the design that makes the difference. The neck opening, the texture of the fabric, the silhouette. The less gaudy the garment is, the more precise the details are, the more dignified it becomes.
This is precisely the reason why henley necks fit the current mood. While maintaining the casualness of a cut-and-sew, the button placket creates a shadow around the neck. Furthermore, the henley neck goes well with today’s men, who are becoming increasingly conscious of their physiques. The point is not to strongly emphasize the well-developed chest plate and shoulder area, but to subtly show off the neckline.
Respect for the classic henley neckWADE was inspired by a 1960s Italian film
“WADE” is a collection of henley neck shirts worn in certain Italian films of the 1960s that have been reworked as adult wearable clothing for the modern era. How can we refine it as an adult’s wearable clothing today? This is where the project began. The henley-neck shirt is said to have its roots in British rowing uniforms. The construction, which omits the collar and uses a front placket for ventilation, made sense for rowing wear, which requires a lot of physical exertion. It eventually spread as workwear for people working in hot environments and has been remembered as a symbol of tough men in movies. Among them, the henley neck style worn by actors in Italian films gives the impression of elegance with a masculine strength. The production focuses on how to express this impression with the latest technology.
For the purpose of presenting a masculine physical beauty in an easy-to-understand manner, a tight henley-neck T-shirt with a thin cut is a viable option. However, the henley neck in this work is based on a knit sweater. The reason for this is that it is comfortable and suitable for the hot and humid Japanese summer, while at the same time having a quality that cannot be achieved with a T-shirt. WADE,” which can be worn as a beautiful sweater or as a rugged henley-neck top, is not a direct reference to cinematic masculinity, but rather a piece of clothing that has been brushed up to fit the Japanese climate and modern life.
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'Highly twisted cotton' & 'Washi' waffle knittingKnitted fabric specializing in a comfortable dry touch and functionality for clean wear
What determines the comfort of “WADE” is the use of yarn combining high-twist cotton and Japanese paper. High-twist cotton yarns are strongly twisted to create a smooth feel on the skin and a moderate rebounding sensation. The fabric does not cling to the skin even during the sweaty season and does not look heavy even though it is a knit. Added to this is washi, also known as Japanese linen. Washi is light and dry to the touch, providing the coolness and cleanliness required in summer.
The knitted fabric is waffle. The uneven surface reduces the contact surface with the skin and contains air for a comfortable feel. The shading of the material adds depth to the look, so even though it is a solid color, it does not become monotonous. Too thin henley necks tend to give the impression of underwear, while knits that are too thick are heavy for spring and summer. WADE” aims for something in between, and has a texture that does not make the wearer look unreliable even when worn alone.
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Eliminate decorations to the extremeHinged tailoring turns a henley neck into an adult face
A typical henley neck has a strong presence of buttons and placket. While this is an attractive feature, it often leads to a casual or underwear feel. At ” WADE,” the front placket is made with a winged design, which gives a minimalist finish to the face while retaining the roughness characteristic of henley necks. Knitwear also offers significant advantages. The advanced knitting technology used in the molding process avoids the thick overlapping seam allowance of woven fabrics, and instead creates a thin, clean finish like the edge of a cut. By reducing the thickness around the front placket, unnecessary volume is not created around the neck. As a result, the entire upper body looks sharp.
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The depth of the V-zone when the buttons are open is also a particular consideration. If it is too deep, the shiny look will be excessive, and if it is too shallow, the henley neckline will not be loose. WADE” has been adjusted to a depth that does not spoil the elegance of the item even when open, so it is well-balanced when worn as a single piece.
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All you need is a sense of sloppinessAdjustment of the top width and length to avoid looking sloppy
What is important in henley necks for adults is the line between sloppiness and sloppiness. The “WADE” is adjusted to be narrower at the top, so the neck doesn’t run too far to the side. It is designed to give a sense of openness but not look loose. The length is about the same as that of the hips. It is a length that can easily be worn with both slacks and sweatpants, and can be tucked out for a natural fit around the waist.
Infusing technology cultivated in Japan's knit production areasNote the specifications that can only be achieved by knitting at a specialized knitting factory in Yamagata
“WADE” is produced by Yonetomi Textile, which has been a specialized knit manufacturer in Yamagata Prefecture for over 70 years. In knitwear, slight differences in yarn, knitting fabric, tension, and finishing directly affect the comfort and appearance of the garment. That is why it is important to have the skills of a factory that has specialized in knitwear for a long time, and not just ” domestic production.
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Yarns mixed with Japanese paper are waffle knitted to an appropriate thickness. Furthermore, the front placket of the henley neck is made to look minimalist by using a ratio wing. These specifications can only be achieved by reading the characteristics of the yarn, adjusting the tension and fall of the knitted fabric, and having the experience and skill to make it look beautiful when worn. Choosing ” WADE ” is also a way of paying respect to Japanese knitting techniques.
